Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Tonga, the Friendly Islands!

Monday, February 09, 2009 – Tonga, The Friendly Islands!
We were up early to view the arrival in to Nuku’alofa, Tonga, the commercial, transport and social centre of Tonga. The American Army built a wharf here in 1942. This island is flat, consisting of coral limestone, with approx. 176 islands total of which 40 are inhabited. The population is approx. 101,000. They have never been colonized by any European power and cannibalism ended with the arrival of missionaries in the 1820s. The natives wanted to absorb the power and skill of those eaten and it was considered an honor to be chosen. Even today, the people are known “for their girth”; in the past, the heaviest people were the most respected in society. This is the last remaining Polynesian monarchy with King Taufa’ahau Tupouo V. The ruling royal family can be traced back more than 1000 years. The exchange rate is approx. US$1 = 1.89TOPS – the Tongan Pa’anga.

This is a devoutly Christian nation that honors Sundays across every island. The Sabbath is declared sacred in the Tongan Constitution. Virtually every denomination is represented in Tonga with each church taking an interest in the development of the country – Roman Catholic, Seven Day Adventists, Anglicans, Methodist, Mormon, Free Wesleyan…Tongan law prohibits any person from appearing in a public place without a shirt. Most Tongans swim fully dressed.

The family is the central unit; each family member plays a role with older persons commanding the most respect. Everything is communal, from food to sleeping arrangements. Chores are distributed according to gender: men tend the ‘umu underground oven), grow and harvest food, collect and husk coconuts and perform all manual labor. Women clean wash clothes, prepare and cook food and take on the lion’s share of child-minding responsibilities. The patriarch is generally the head of the family and land passed down from a father to his eldest son.

We had to tender in to the port at Queen Selote Wharf. It was a humid day with clouds and we were five in the taxi we shared with our driver, “Cologne-E”. They drive on the left-hand side of the road. We stopped at the cemetery and walked around in wonder. They are above ground and covered with woven blankets, some with their name of the deceased woven into a crocheted piece, plastic flowers, seashells are on top of the mound and as many glittering decorations as they can find. It was beautiful to walk around and we found out every village has a beautiful cemetery.

Driving through the small streets of the capital city, we passed the white-framed Royal Palace (a Victorian home from England which was shipped here in 1867), stopped at the Royal Tombs (above ground tombs with statues) and the Centenary Church (there the Royal Family worship).

Heading out of town, we drove to Kolovai to see the trees. They were covered in “flying foxes”, fox-faced bats which eat only fruits. They are considered sacred. “Cologne-E” told he was the Island’s champion coconut tree-climber! He offered to show us his skill and of course we accepted! In 50 seconds he was up there and dropping coconuts down to us!

Off to the Houma blowholes, “The Chief’s Whistle”, (along with just about every other single bus from the cruise ship!!). There were several market vendors there and we had fun examining and buying the local pearls, coconut jewelry, fans, seashell jewelry…beautiful handicrafts.

Off to the local grocery store (their local 7-11), a barred one window 4’x8’ room with a few of every item you could ever need. Had an ice cold drink and continued down the road. It was very humid and with no air conditioning, it was pleasant as long as we kept moving!

We passed several schools. There were several all girl and all boy schools – the girls wore white blouses (to signify the cleansing of the blood of Jesus) and the red jumpers. There was a university and several theological colleges and several colleges sponsored by the churches and other public schools.

We stopped at the site where Captain Cook landed in 1777 and they had a beautiful display of the traditional dress and how it was made. Many Tongans wear wraparound skirts known as valas. They come below the knee on mean and to the ankles on women. To show respect, they wear finely woven mats known as ta’ovalas over their valas. Women wear decorative waistbands known as kiekies.

Then to the village of Lapaha, the seat of the Tui Tonga (King) for six centuries, beginning in A.D. 1200. There are ancient terraced tombs and they know there are 28 tombs but none of them have been excavated.

A little excitement when our driver was pulled over for a speeding ticket!! The policeman had a radar gun and claimed he was driving 50 in a zone for 40. The ticket was US$10 and we paid it for him. I’m sure he was talking to us and not paying attention. No discussion from the police, name/address requested and you have two days to pay at the police station.

We passed the beaches with wild pigs eating in the very shallow waters!! There were piglets and pigs and in the water and out! It was fascinating. Our friends had gone in the water and said there was a lot of coral and you had to go way, way out to get into the water for a swim. One of my client friends bought me a wooden piglet which she presented to me at the end of the day’s adventure!

Ha’amonga Trilithon is a huge archway, whose lintel stone is estimated to weight 35 tons, is 16’ high and 19’ wide. Tradition says it was built by the 11th Tui Tonga (King) long before the wheel was introduced to Tonga. It was also found to be a measure for the seasons. The mark on the top pointed to the exact spot on the horizon from which the sun rose on the shortest day of the year. How did they get this stone on top of its two supports??

He took us to his home! What an honor! His wife had made us leis of the most sweet-smelling flowers and we saw his three children (although we understood he had two children – wonder if they do not mention the girls they have…) and his mother-in-law. We took photos and gave them gifts.
We headed back to town and stopped at the markets. Bought some nice jewelry, found the internet center, tourism office, and back to the ship! What a day! We manage to jam so much in and had the nicest driver. He told us he was very honored to drive us and we felt the same. The Tongans are lovely people.

Took the tender back to the ship and the crew had trouble getting the wench to pull up the last tender boat. So we had a 1.5 hour delay in sailing. I swam; crew were setting up for a deck party BBQ dinner. It was a full moon, there was a cool breeze with a tropical band playing out by the pool…ideal evening to sail off into the sunset.

Anthony Stuart Lloyd sang songs from the West End and London – great operatic voice.
VERY TIRED. Wrote diary but was yearning to be in bed.