Sunday, April 24, 2011

At sea...special birthday!

Friday, April 22 – my Dad’s special birthday! At sea

Walked on deck, lunch with friends, packed, signed up for garage sale table, Indonesian Tea in the dining room, lecture on biking from Australia to Tibet, Amsterdam singers and dancers performed “Ultimate Broadway”. Listened to last night of Diane’s port songs and they will be on her website and available for downloading.

Everyone is exchanging contact information and saying goodbye…It really is all about the people.

Madeira Portugal and days at sea

Monday, April 18 – at sea

Day of rest. HAL Chorale practice and we were informed that we perform on Wednesday! Read, cleaned up the room to get ready to pack and worked.
Phantom of the Opera singer, Dale Kristien – fabulous voice; she sang with Michael Crawford for five years(!!!) in Phantom of the Opera on Broadway.

Tuesday, April 19 – our last port! Funchal Madeira Portugal

Madeira is an island belonging to Portugal – a 2+ hour flight from the mainland. Lovely steep cliffs, high green mountains, nice beaches and quaint villages and a comfortable size city for walking. Great port of call.

We were up early to see the most beautiful moon shining on the water on one side of the ship and on the other we had the sun rising over the mountains of Madeira. Gorgeous view. Blossomed in to a lovely morning with sunshine and 70 degrees, we hired a taxi for a tour of the western part of the island and the main city of Funchal. He was quite a character – every other word was “Momma” and “I tell you the truth” and he had the funniest characteristics, we could not tell if it was a show or if it was his true character. Anyway, he made the ride enjoyable and we had many smiles as we tried to hide our shaking bodies due to the laughter from his mannerisms!

We started out in the village of Monte, about 4 miles from Funchal, high in the hills. There was a beautiful small church at the top with a gorgeous golden baroque interior and the smell of “old age” and feeling of warmth. Charles I, of the Hapsburg Empire, is buried here. We then sat in the sled of wicker with two long runners on either side (two of us) and two men pushed and steered and pulled us down the streets of Monte for over 1.5 miles! It was quite fun but I was concerned about the gutters! There were about a foot deep on either side of the one way/one lane road but we never hit the edge – came close a few times but they know how to steer and judge the speed of the sleds. And then we came to an intersection; we were glad to see the cars had a STOP sign but what if they forgot to stop and we were whizzing past….?

Of course, they take your photo as you are zooming down and have it ready at the bottom – quite a good photo with our hair standing on end! And also big smiles!

We ventured to the 2nd highest sheer cliff in the world – to Cabo do Girao – and viewed the magnificent coastline. Many items for sale by Peruvians, which I have never understand – different continent and different language…

Next to the fishing village where Winston Churchill painted and saw the dried cod by the colorful fishing boats. There were hoards of German tourists (and others) and we heard that all the trips to Egypt had been canceled due to political unrest so Madeira was one of the destinations which won out when clients re-booked. Again there was a precious chapel with a wooden ceiling which had been painted over with the most beautiful scenes. We walked around Funchal, the largest city and through the supermarket, past the cafes and small shops and through the two story market with beautiful flowers and fresh fruits and souvenirs. Delicious Madeira wine was available for sample and sale.

Lovely port call and by the time we headed back to the ship, the clouds were rolling in over the mountains, which is typical in this region. We had special invites for the spa and spent a few hours there in the sauna and on the hot beds and Jacuzzi as we left our very last port of call. How sad.

Almost immediately we hit rough seas and people were jostling around and getting the green apples and crackers to settle their stomachs. Max Dolcelli was the comedian.

Wednesday, April 20 – at sea

Rock and rolling all night; quite rough; seas at about 16 feet. The bumps around the elevator shafts make you want to take the steps! By dinner time it had calmed down considerably, but many people were in their rooms for most of the day. Great guest speaker: Robert Lilwall. He will show us in four lectures about his three-year (!!) journey via bike from Siberia to London. He covered over 30,000 miles – “Cycling Home from Siberia” was published in 2011 in the USA. Haircut, guest talent show and HAL Chorale performed our medley of Rogers and Hammerstein. Suffice it to say our last rehearsals were just “OK” and nothing spectacular but when we got on stage and sang that medley, it was as if we were professionals. I was so touched that I cried and couldn’t even sing the last songs! It was an incredible sound coming from the Chorale and it was just like my band director from high school, Mr. Rehberg; everyone wanted to do their best for him and it showed. Bruce, the cruise director/director, was touched and he even had tears in his eyes.

Had a nice dinner in the Italian restaurant, Canaletto, with four others and then the Piano Bar, with Diane Fast playing her port songs. She has written words describing each port experience to songs. Tonight she sang 14 port songs and they are incredible. She returns to the ship by 3PM, writes the words for an hour and then performs them that night. Then the English singer, Kimika, performed, we were some friends and I worked. No internet connection as we are between the European and US internet connections. Weather is clearing up and the ship is sailing smoothly.

Thursday, April 21 – at sea

Attended the TV taping of “Good Morning Amsterdam” and I won a document holder! Mariner luncheon at 11:00 and we were given a Holland America tile. Walked, went to both shows of “The Scintas” brothers from Las Vegas – a real Las Vegas-style show with piano, impersonations, Dino, Frank, Elvis, Neil Diamond, Tom Jones, jokes…And the Piano bar pianist, Diane Fast, played her second night of port songs – fantastic! Packed one suitcase. Fed Ex is onboard to assist people in shipping and wrapping. The race is on.
The sea is beautiful. Expansive, blue, rolling. It is incredible to look out and see just water and more water. I love these days at sea.

Spain

Saturday, April 16 – Cartagena Spain

Good or bad, the newest Holland America ship, the Nieuw Amsterdam ship was in port with us so over 400 of us ventured over to visit her. She is a beauty with pool cabanas, a lovely Asian restaurant Tamarind and a Manhattan theme; 86000 tons and 2200 passengers (compared to our 1200 passengers and 58000 tons) BUT this meant less time in the beautiful city of Cartagena! It was a beautiful day with a warm sun and clear skies and we found out we were in an easily walk-able city. We found the Roman Theatre with a capacity for 6000 spectators with columns, the Punic Wall from 299 BC, the Decumano Calzada Romana which reflects the street life of a Roman city on the main road of Carthago Nova with the bustle of the shops and coming and going of people between the port and forum and the grocery store! They are always a good place to wander around to see the specialties of the region as reasonable prices. There was also a tourist boat for an hour’s tour of the castles and forts along the coast - -next time! Very clean city with a nice walking street and free WIFI at the City Hall. Hope to return there again also!

Cartagena is Spain’s principal naval base. There are five natural hills and it was from here that Hannibal set out in 218 BC with a mighty army and his elephants crossing the Pyrenees and the Alps before narrowly failing to destroy the Roman Republic. The Romans had their revenge in 209 BC when they captured Cartagena and ruled until the 2nd century AD. The area is rich in lead, iron, copper, zinc and sulfur and mining is a big industry here.

Entertainer Marty Brill, TV and motion picture comedy writer.

Sunday, April 17, Palm Sunday – Cadiz Spain
Lovely day – brisk wind with a hot sun. My kind of weather. Cadiz claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Western world. Julius Caesar first held public office here and Columbus set out from here on this second voyage, after which the city became the home base of the Spanish fleet. Most of its buildings were built in part with the gold and silver form the New World.

Met our friends Arnold, Astrid and Bob at the pier and spent a few hours chatting and eating on the back deck. Wonderfully relaxing time. We were together two years ago and they drove over 2+ hours to meet us.

After they left, we headed in to the lovely port town of Cadiz for the Palm Sunday procession from the Santo Domingo church. The streets were lined with masses of people and they were also standing in the small balconies above the narrow cobblestoned streets. From the side of the church, came many young altar boys in white gowns with a white hood with only their eyes showing. Each church has a different color for their gowns. Then walked rows of older boys swinging the incense. Then the large floats depicting Christ’s Passion – and I mean large. The scenes on the floats were elaborate and ornate. And they must have weighed a lot. I counted feet for 72 men UNDER one float. Imagine trying to all walk together with your head covered and the only set of eyes for all these men were from the men in the very front of the float. It was a slow mechanical sway of walk as they progressed down the cobblestoned streets. And then the band! Whew. The sound they made – powerful, powerful, powerful. It actually brought tears to my eyes. I thought of them as a highly talented high school marching band – a sound that touched your soul. There are 30 processionals scheduled for this Holy Week/Semana Santa – what an incredible time to visit Cadiz.

We ventured out to the 1st century BC Roman ruins, found a beautiful city wall with an overlook to the Atlantic Ocean that was spectacular and then walked the narrow streets down to the Cathedral. If our plan had been to wander that area, we were wrong. It was a huge throng of people waiting for another procession to finish or end there so we found some other less-traveled streets and headed to the Genoves Park. We enjoyed a homing pigeon hut, a waterfall with a high lookout over the sea and city, lovely flowers and benches to relax on and beautiful groomed trees. Wandering through various other squares, we found the ones with free WIFI and headed back to the ship to get the computers. Back at the square, we worked and phoned home. Luckily, it was not dark until after 9PM!
Dinner in the cabin and collapsed! Great day. “Aires de Cadiz” flamenco show.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Italy

Thursday, April 14, 2011 – Port of Civitavecchia for Rome, Italy

We could not get up but we made it out to the train station by 9:30 for the 45 minute ride to Rome. 9 euros is a deal for a transportation ticket for the train, metro and all buses PLUS it was culture week so all the museums were FREE! Yeah! Off at Roma Ostiense for a change in rail station to the Roma Lido station and on to Ostia.

12PM tour of one of the only triangular castles in the world – through the pathways, looked out the artillery holes for cannons and guns and climbed the round tower.
Walked across the street to Ostia Antica, ruins founded in the 4th century BC. This site has been on my “list” for years and this is the trip to explore them. They were on the Tiber River and the town was designed to secure the river mouth against possible invasion. It became a flourishing commercial center. There were vivid mosaics in the Baths of Neptune and an ancient amphitheater seating 3500 spectators.

Civitavecchia is only 37 miles from Rome. We love Rome but were glad to spend some time outside of it today. Buses were late from tours and everyone said the streets were full of school groups; sometimes it is nice to venture in a different direction for a new perspective of the area.

Graham Jolley was the entertainer – a mind reader and he is fascinating and a great entertainer. We’ve seen him before and are still mystified at how he knows what he does from people in the audience. Finished my book! Enjoyed the adventure and the mere fact that I finished ONE book during these days onboard. How wonderful to know that you were physically and mentally able to traverse the path of Marco Polo for eight months on a camel and horse through Central Asia. Something to be proud of.

Friday, April 15, 2011 – Tax day! At sea in the Mediterranean

Sunny day at sea, time for a fun lunch with new friends from Hockessin, DE!, computer class on messaging, art I-pod tour around the ship, walked with a friend for an hour on the promenade, chorale practice.

It is nice to walk around and see all your friends and stop to chat – really, how easy can life be? People are beginning to realize the cruise will soon come to an end. Where has the time gone? Where they were once complaining (how could they be??) about a small issue, they are finally realizing how wonderfully we have been treated and how easy the days have been and how blessed we have been with safety issues and the weather and the wonderful sites we have visited. I guess no matter how good or hard you think you have it, there is always something to talk about.

Show was Jordan Bennett and Dale Kristien singing songs from Les Mis and Phantom, both shows they have starred in on Broadway. Powerful singers. Looked at the Faberge eggs and jewelry – I’ll take three please! They begin at $3K for the highly decorated and innovative eggs but a mere $800 for the golden egg necklace with a pearl inside. Worked and listened to music from my little corner of the world, the atrium level on Deck 3.

Italy

Thursday, April 14, 2011 – Port of Civitavecchia for Rome, Italy

We could not get up but we made it out to the train station by 9:30 for the 45 minute ride to Rome. 9 euros is a deal for a transportation ticket for the train, metro and all buses PLUS it was culture week so all the museums were FREE! Yeah! Off at Roma Ostiense for a change in rail station to the Roma Lido station and on to Ostia.

12PM tour of one of the only triangular castles in the world – through the pathways, looked out the artillery holes for cannons and guns and climbed the round tower.
Walked across the street to Ostia Antica, ruins founded in the 4th century BC. This site has been on my “list” for years and this is the trip to explore them. They were on the Tiber River and the town was designed to secure the river mouth against possible invasion. It became a flourishing commercial center. There were vivid mosaics in the Baths of Neptune and an ancient amphitheater seating 3500 spectators.

Civitavecchia is only 37 miles from Rome. We love Rome but were glad to spend some time outside of it today. Buses were late from tours and everyone said the streets were full of school groups; sometimes it is nice to venture in a different direction for a new perspective of the area.

Graham Jolley was the entertainer – a mind reader and he is fascinating and a great entertainer. We’ve seen him before and are still mystified at how he knows what he does from people in the audience. Finished my book! Enjoyed the adventure and the mere fact that I finished ONE book during these days onboard. How wonderful to know that you were physically and mentally able to traverse the path of Marco Polo for eight months on a camel and horse through Central Asia. Something to be proud of.

Friday, April 15, 2011 – Tax day! At sea in the Mediterranean

Sunny day at sea, time for a fun lunch with new friends from Hockessin, DE!, computer class on messaging, art I-pod tour around the ship, walked with a friend for an hour on the promenade, chorale practice.

It is nice to walk around and see all your friends and stop to chat – really, how easy can life be? People are beginning to realize the cruise will soon come to an end. Where has the time gone? Where they were once complaining (how could they be??) about a small issue, they are finally realizing how wonderfully we have been treated and how easy the days have been and how blessed we have been with safety issues and the weather and the wonderful sites we have visited. I guess no matter how good or hard you think you have it, there is always something to talk about.

Show was Jordan Bennett and Dale Kristien singing songs from Les Mis and Phantom, both shows they have starred in on Broadway. Powerful singers. Looked at the Faberge eggs and jewelry – I’ll take three please! They begin at $3K for the highly decorated and innovative eggs but a mere $800 for the golden egg necklace with a pearl inside. Worked and listened to music from my little corner of the world, the atrium level on Deck 3.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Naples, Italy

Tuesday, April 12 – Naples, Italy

Along the waterfront, we walked to the train station and took the Circumvesuviana train to Ercalano to visit the ruins of Herculaneum. These have been on my list of a long time and it was time for a visit! We were pleasantly surprised to find FREE ENTRY. We did rent the audio phones but they really are not needed as there is enough of a description on the homes. As you enter from the town, you cross a high bridge and below you is the town. About 5000 people lived here when it was destroyed in AD79. The town was buried under a tide of volcanic mud and this semi-liquid mass seeped into the crevices and niches of every building covering household objects and enveloping textiles and wood – SEALING IT ALL IN A COMPACT, AIRTIGHT TOMB. These are complete streets with curbing and complete houses with walls and mosaic floors and jugs for their “fast food” wine bars. Even some wooden objects remain from 79AD, when Vesuvius erupted. Some stairs and (actual) bread and shelving units of wood – can you imagine them surviving over 2000 years???

Casual excavation began in the 18th century b ut systematic digs were not initiated until the 1920s. These sites are better preserved than Pompeii. They even found 1,800 carbonized papyrus scrolls. It was a beautiful day to explore with a warm sun and slight breeze – in and out of buildings and photos and a picnic lunch.

Back on the train and to the ship to meet some Italian friends for dinner on the ship! It was their first visit to a large US ship so we toured and the enjoyed a nice meal. A great Italian lesson for me – we managed OK with my Spanish and Italian combo-language.

Turkey and Greece and a very special dinner...

Friday, April 8 – Kusadasi, Turkey

I led a ship’s tour to the House of the Virgin Mary, where she spent her last days. The site has been officially declared a shrine of the Roman Catholic Church and was visited by Pope Paul VI in 1967. Then on to Ephesus, one of the most magnificient and best-preserved archaeological sites in the world. Ephesus is the Aegean’s best preserved ancient city; it was a busy port in the crossroads for traders in the era of the emerging Western World. We saw the Odeon Theatre, the Market Basilica, Curetes Street, Bath, Celsus Library, Marble Street and the Great Theatre with a seating capacity of 25,000 people. We toured the Terrace Houses where the actual mosaic floors have been uncovered; beautiful colors and designs! They are located opposite Hadrian’s Temple and show newly excavated sections where the wealthy and important people of Ephesus lived in homes finely decorated with mosaics and frescoes giving a true impression of the ancient lifestyle. We also visited the Basilica of St. John, which honors the holy man’s tomb. St. John is said to have come to Ephesus twice (between AD37 and 48 with the Virgin Mary and in AD95), where he wrote his gospel on Ayasuluk Hill. Emperor Justinian erected a magnificent church above his tomb, which was destroyed by earthquakes and material-scavengers. In its day it was considered a near-marvel and attracted thousands of medieval pilgrims.

We continued on to enjoy a wonderful lunch outside under tents on a perfect day before we had the infamous Turkish carpet demonstration. Rug information: wool on wool is made in geometric designs, wool on cotton is in floral designs, Hereke are the best carpets with 220-240 knots PER INCH. Mercerized cotton looks like silk.

After dinner, we went back out and wandered around the streets and tried to converse with a nice older fisherman who was heading out at 3AM for his daily fishing. Lovely night for strolling; the port area is very nice for the tourist; free WIFI at Starbucks and zillions of shops.

“I just looked up at a fire twinkling star and thought that a voyager whom I know, now many days’ sail from this coast, might possibly be looking up at the same star with me.” - Henry David Thoreau

Saturday, April 9 – Kusadasi, Turkey

We lost two from our group to the hospital and we hope all goes well; very sad.

A nice young man walked us to the local bus stop and we took the public bus to Selcuk (village past Ephesus) and enjoyed wandering around the Ephesus Museum where many of the finds from Ephesus are stored indoors. There were scales, jewelry, cosmetic boxes and the effigy of Priapus, the Phallic God, coins, grave goods and statuary. Another beautiful day and we took a taxi back to Ephesus and wandered around the less-visited ruins on the western side – where we believe the Church of Ephesus is located. Quieter area to roam and explore – through tall grass and weeds -- you feel like a real Indiana Jones!

Back to town, we shopped and wandered; enjoyed the company of a nice family who own a café. Sail-away came and it was a brilliant afternoon with the fort and harbor behind us.
Some guests tried a hamam (bath) with a sauna and scrubbing and skin peeling on a marble slab – www.adasarayturkishbath.com - transportation included for approx. $20 per person.

“What lies behind us and what lies ahead of us are tiny matters compared to what lives within us.” - Nathaniel Hawthorne

Sunday, April 10 – Piraeus for Athens Greece

We took a taxi directly to the Archeological museum and enjoyed all the treasures from the Acropolis which were moved inside – amazing in size and details. Hopped on the little train that chugs around the Acropolis and were amazed at the tight spaces where it could maneuver. We were actually about a foot away from people dining and a mere 6 inches away from the flea market stands – A little too close for me no matter how I looked at it but a wonderful way to drive through the heart of the Plaka on a sunny Sunday afternoon when all the families and tourists were out enjoying the moment. Took bus #40 back to the port/ship. Beautiful sailaway in the sun.
Paul Adams, comedian, was the entertainer.

“For one human being to love another: that is perhaps the most difficult of all our tasks. The ultimate, the last test and proof, the work for which all other work is but preparation.” - Rainer Maria Rilke
Monday, April 11, 2011 – at sea – formal night and our Captain’s Grand Voyage Dinner in the Pinnacle Grill

We were very lucky to be hosted by the Hotel Manager, Henk Mensink, and able to sit with our theatre companions for a fun evening. Scrumptious and elaborate meal and we were given a beautiful gift of a sterling wine prop with Holland America logo. Salmon tartare, frappe of Tomatoes, truffled lobster fricassee en croute, petit filet mignon with baby vegetables, potato tart and rosemary shallot demi glace, ginger crème brulee, poached pear and frozen banana soufflé with Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnary from Australia and Woodbridge Twin Oak Cabernet Sauvignon from CA.

Fantastic concert by the Amsterdam Orchestra! They were each featured on their instrument in unique ways – drummer played with cereal boxes, the keyboardist played his narrated thesis on the life of a rabbit, the electric bass guitarist played the hit songs he grew up with…creativity plus wonderful talent! Craig Hill, Jeremy Seitzer, Lawrence Ravdin, Nathan Hance, Daniel Dainard and Irving Brown.

“Never let an adventure pass you by.” – Joan Lunden

Suez Canal, Israel

Monday, April 04, 2011 – at sea – at anchor near the Suez

10:00 AM tour of the workshop of the onboard florists. They do phenomenal work in a small area – approx. 8x10. They have the most incredible flower arrangements I have ever seen, incorporating horns from India, Vietnamese hats from Vietnam, specific colors relating to each port…the flowers are flown in from Amsterdam approx. every two weeks and some flowers are purchased in local ports. Eddy and Callista – great arrangers!
Our formal themed night – Arabian Nights! Here is the poem presented at dinner tonight with our free wine, since we had itinerary deviations.

“This segment’s unfolding out of one thousand and one
Like a story within a story, with a golden frame redone
With Middle-Eastern folk tales told around the candlelight
Where Ali Baba, Sinbad and Alladin’s stories reunite
No adventure could be less exciting or diverse
On this themed formal night prior to Suez’ traverse
Past days wonder of the world wait mystically for our return
When our traveler’s yearning will cease the moment of upturn
So dream into this wondrous nightly blue
And know the wine is free , from us to you!”

Unexpected Boys sang Broadway tunes as we sat anchored two miles south of the Suez Canal entrance. Paulette Mitchell is the guest chef – she has written 13 cookbooks and is on TV. Arabian Night ball – the costumes were amazing!

“I can’t change the direction of the wind, but I can adjust my sails to always reach my destination.” – Jimmy Dean

Tuesday, April 5, 2011 – transit of the Suez Canal –
The idea of the canal was first thought of by Pharaoh Necho in the 6th century BC! Necho actually began the canal and 100,000 workers died during construction and the Pharaoh was ultimately forced to abandon his dream. There is evidence that a narrow channel was actually excavated in the 13th century BC even though exact details are lost. Work began in 1845 – 11 years for construction. Today, the canal is 118 miles long separating the Mediterranean and Red Seas. The canal allows two-way north-south water transport from Europe to Asia without circumnavigating Africa. The canal has no locks because there is no sea-level difference and no hills to climb. Approx. 25,000 ships pass through the canal each year, approx. 14% of world shipping. Giuseppe Verdi’s opera masterpiece, AIDA, was written to commemorate the opening of the Suez Canal. It was completed too late for the 1869 opening and premiered in 1871. Ships pay approx. $205,000 for the 8 hour transit in a convoy. 10 years to complete, northern terminus is Port Said, southern terminus is Port Tawfik. It is single-lane with passing places in Ballah By-Pass and the Great Bitter Lake. It is owned by the Suez Canal Authority o the Arab Republic of Egypt. Average workers per day: 30,000. Maximum ships per day: 80. 7,350 miles are saved by transiting the route instead of going around Africa.

Beautiful day to transit the canal – we are close enough to land on either side to enjoy the Army barracks, small towns, oil fields and rigs (prior to the transit), lookout posts, memorials to veterans…it is a very interesting day and one I highly recommend…you are as close to land as if you were on a river cruise.
Glad to be in the Mediterranean. Enough said.

I went to the Pinnacle Grill tonight for a murder-mystery dinner! We started off in the Hudson Room lounge meeting the “disenchanted” characters in the Disenchanted Kingdom – you know…Salmonella, Princess Apnea/The Narcoleptic Beauty, Samuel T. Pan – the brother of Peter Pan, Polly Dent, the Denture Fairy, the Little Merman (he looked GOOD in this emerald green mermaid legs!), Ambivalent, the Not-so-wicked sorceress, and Lou, the Magic Plumber. I was “Princess Goody Two Shoes”.

We had a speech during the excellent dinner by Graham Grimm, the third cousin, twice-removed, of the more famous Brothers Grimm. We were at the Annual Not-So-Famous Fairy Tale Convention Dinner, a celebration of all those who have lived in the shadows for all these years. We enjoyed an Antipasto platter with Turkey Flat Rose wine from Australia, potato and leek soup scented with truffle with a Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier form California, a shrimp and lobster salad on a bed of greens with tarragon dressing with a Columbia Crest Grand Estate Chardonnay from Washington, a medium seared petite filet mignon with asparagus, balsamic drizzled cherry tomatoes and slow fried new potatoes with a Columbia Crest Grand Estate Merlot from Washington and a chocolate, hazelnut and coffee cake with raspberry sauce with an Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest from Chile (my favorite!). A murder had been committed and as the characters circulated among the tables we needed to figure out the murderer. Nice evening but way too much wine for me!

“The way to develop self-confidence is to do the thing you fear.” – Jennings Bryan

Wednesday, April 6 –Ashdod, Israel for Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Haifa, Tel Aviv…close enough for several destinations

We had a 6AM passport control check face-to-face with customs. They were onboard.
Jerusalem is the very soul of the inhabited world. It was a beautiful day as we docked and we were slightly anxious about the port call so we had decided to disembark, see how we felt and then either get a taxi or remain on the ship. We had turned down offers to host a ship’s tour. We found a driver to take four of us to Jerusalem for the day but on the way in our new Mercedes there were internal computer messages stating something was wrong with the car. We stopped twice on the highway before they called for another car. We were on our way and Gethsemane, along with all the tour buses in town. We were there about 10 years ago so it was time to renew the memories. Home of the Last Supper (Coenaculum), Zion Gate, Church of the Holy Sepulchre (where Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Ethiopian and Coptic churches all believe that Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected), Wailing Wall, Dung Gate, Garden Tomb (through Damascus Gate – we took our driver there as he had never been there - where Christians believe that Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected)). Walked through the Cardo (marketplace) and the Via Dolorosa, the path along which Jesus walked while carrying his cross. It was a very nice day but we were glad to get back to the ship.

The Ashdod Academy of Dance were invited onboard; an all-female troupe ages 15-22 with energetic moves for modern and traditional Israeli dances. Wow! Everyone onboard was stunned by their professionalism and energy, costumes and choreography. We talked with them after the show and they travel frequently – LA, Brazil, China…they bring a new dimension to dance. We really enjoyed the day but were glad to pull out of the port.

“Plan for the future because that is where you are going to spend the rest of your life.” – Mark Twain

Thursday, April 7 – in the Aegean Sea!

Out of the Middle East. It seemed like a long-time coming.

Chorale rehearsal. Amsterdam singers and dancers in Las Vegas Nights.
“Cheerfulness is full of significance; it suggests good health, a clear conscience, and a soul at peace with human nature.” – Charles Kingsley

Monday, April 11, 2011

Luxor Egypt and Aqaba/Petra Jordan

Friday, April 1, 2011 – in the Red Sea

Had breakfast with friends for her birthday. Talked to others, figured out tours for Safaga/Luxor/Karnak, Egypt tomorrow. Worked. Listened to lectures on Egypt and what to expect tomorrow and on Sunday in Aqaba, Jordan. Organized the last get-together for the Ensemble group! …How sad.

“The most important trip you may take in life is meeting people halfway.” - Henry Boye.

Saturday, April 2, 2011 – Safaga, Egypt for Luxor and Karnak, Egypt

Egypt has a longer recorded history than any other nation on earth – more than 5000 years. The Red Sea has always been the marine gateway between Europe and Asia for trading tea, spices, gemstone and elephants! The ancient ports still thrive but now as some of the world’s best diving and fishing resorts. Port Safaga was established for delivering and transporting phosphate exports. Hurghada is up the coast about 25 miles and filled with lavish hotels and resort complexes along the shore.

After an early morning 6AM arrival to Egypt and after clearance by customs, we boarded buses for the drive across the desert. We drove off in a convoy and had to stop for at least four checkpoints across the Eastern Desert, part of the Sahara Desert. Safaga port is commercial and there were lines of immigrants with all their belongings. We heard they were Kuwaitis but who really knows…Small pickup trucks were piled high with mattresses, toys and all the worldly possessions one treasures. The road was two-lane and at the checkpoints there were at least a dozen soldiers sitting around, mostly drinking coffee. Some waved at us, some watched us, but none of them moved to do anything to speed our clearance. Now, granted, we were not the first bus in the convoy so perhaps they had all the paperwork up there and we were just “in line” but work ethics were missing, from what I could see.

The ride was through a rocky and sandy desert with high mountains on either side - beautiful day with clear skies and pleasant temperatures – not the humidity levels we have been experiencing in our other Asian ports. The mountains were rugged, brown and dry. As we neared Luxor, we came to more villages and rode alongside a very deep water channel—missing any water! There was a lot of litter and GOATS (eating the litter!) in the channel. After one more turn, we came into a connecting section of the channel and it was filled with water.

The village life around the water is always fascinating. Kids with water buffalo, donkeys being ridden by men of all ages, women in their black dress hauling their goods back to their home. The homes were small tents with woven fabrics for the roof and perhaps also for the front door. The land was worked for farming and paths were dirt. There were several bridges across the channel and where they could not afford a bridge, they had a small boat rigged up to a pulley. You hopped in to the boat, pulled yourself across the river and got out of the boat. If the boat was not on your side of the water, you tugged on the pulley to get the boat over to your side and then hopped in and pulled yourself across the channel. Ingenious and cheap – you get where you want to be.

Luxor – Mom and I were here in January 1983 on an archeological study tour. I was very curious to see the city and what I could remember from that past visit. Our first stop was at the Karnak Temple. There is now a visitor center and they have razed all the homes which fronted the temple and backed to the Nile. There is a complete walkway and view from the water to the temple.

Impressive columns, hieroglyphics covering all the walls…huge cavernous rooms. To the ancient Egyptians, Karnak was known as “The most perfect of places”. It is perhaps the largest temple complex ever built and it grew in stages over 1500 years. An enormous statue of Ramses II seems to welcome visitors but his arms forbiddingly cross his chest. We explored the Great Temple of Amun, Gate to Precinct of Montu, Sacred lake, Festival Temple of Amenhotep II, saw the Avenue of the Sphinxes which went all the way down to Luxor Temple, Temple of Opet… There is an evening sound and light show also. Very impressive and there are still colors on some walls and ceilings. Extremely tall columns highly decorated.
We drove along the Nile River to the Sonesta Hotel – passing at least six rows of river boats, at least five-eight deep. All EMPTY. These are usually plying the river with hordes of tourists. EMPTY. Since January 25. And it will take a long time for them to return. BUT due to this, we had the entire temple to ourselves!! We were the only group visiting and we felt safe. There were a few private individuals roaming around but other than that, we had the streets and hotel to ourselves. NOT as I remember it from years ago.
The Sonesta Hotel is on the Nile and as the group was herded to the buffet, I ran down to the waterfront desk. You can hire a felucca for a private sail for $12!! We booked it and were off for our 1/2hour sail on the Nile – Gene’s birthday present! It was lovely and I helped (a little) to row. We sailed over to the Valley of the Kings and saw the swamp area, the animals and kids playing at the water’s edge – just as I did remember it from 1983. Lovely.

We ate a quick buffet lunch, with no lines at this time, boarded the bus and were delivered to the Luxor Temple, right down the street. Luxor Temple stands aloof in the heart of the town with its grand colonnades and pylons. Dedicated to the Theban Triad of Amun-Min, Mut and Khonsu, it was the “harem of the south” where Amun’s consort Mut and their son Khonsu resided. Every spring a flotilla of barques escorted Amun’s effigy from Karnak Temple to this site for a conjugal reunion with Mut in an Optet/fertility festival noted for its public debauchery. The clarify of its reliefs is due to the temple having been half-buried by sand and silt and overlaid by Luxor itself. They recently found a boat ramp which led to the Nile! In 2006, a massive underground ring-drainage system was installed to deal with the rising groundwater that had been damaging the temple. The Avenue of the Sphinxes is grand as you glance down to Karnak Temple.

Had a nice drive back to the ship. I am fascinated by the scenes of everyday life from the bus windows. And the sun was setting and we had no reason to be concerned about missing the ship since we were on a ship’s excursion.

“We all live with the objective of being happy; our lives are all different and yet the same.” – Anne Frank

Sunday, April 3, 2011 – Aqaba, Jordan for Petra

After another early morning arrival, we found a taxi driver to take us to Petra,(Galeb), along with some friends. The port has been enhanced with a new entrance/exit and new highway structure – but we soon found out why there were so many improvements! (always boils down to m o n e y)

Petra is an ancient city, about 2 hours away from the port of Aqaba. It was the center of an Arab kingdom in Hellenistic and Roman times. The valley is enclosed by sandstone cliffs veined with shades of red and purple varying to pale yellow, and for this reason Petra was called by the 19th-century English biblical scholar John W. Burgon a “rose-red city half as old as time”.

“It seems no work of man’s creative hand, By labour wrought as wavering fancy planned; but from the rock as if by magic grown, eternal, silent, beautiful, alone! Not virgin-white like that old Doric shrine, where erst Athena held her rites divine; Not saintly-grey, like many a minster fane, that crowns the hill land consecrates the plain; But rose-red as if the blush of dawn, that first beheld them were not yet withdrawn; The hues of youth upon a brow of woe, which man deemed old two thousand years ago, match me such marvel save in Eastern clime, a rose-red city half as old as time.” - John William Burgon wrote this poem without ever having visited Petra

Under Nabataen rule, Petra prospered as a centre of the spice trade that involved such disparate realms as China, Egypt, Greece and India and the city’s population swelled. The city was unknown to the Western world until it was rediscovered by the Swiss traveler Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812. And it again became famous due to the Indiana Jones adventure film!

It is now one of the new “seven wonders of the world” and everyone enjoyed the day as they walked, or rode on the carriage or horse, down to the siq –the Treasury – the Al-Khazneh, of Indiana Jones fame. There was time to explore and climb in to the 7000 seat theatre, the Royal tombs, Urn Tomb, Palace Tomb of the Great temple. There is never enough time to see and do it all! The colors are magical and the pictures, even from amateur like me, can be stunning.

Gene and I opted to go out to another site, 15 minutes past Petra to “Little Petra” – Al-Barid. It is much smaller than Petra; so small that we were seven in there and Gene and I were two of them. We could hear the birds sing. We could wander at our own pace and explore alone in the tombs. The colors were just as deep and changing and the area smaller to cover. There was an immense Nabatean cistern that held approx. 1.2 million liters water/approx. 21 feet deep! It was said the camels drank from here as the merchants used them in their commute between Arabia and the Mediterranean.

We passed a Bedouin village and the camel was strung up to the light post. Our driver chased after two donkeys so Gene could ride one and finally a young boy rode by on one donkey, pulling another one. Galeb, our driver, spoke to him and Gene and I were both invited to ride the donkey – that’s been a long time since we’ve done that! I was only on a few seconds before I asked to be pulled off! That was enough. Had a lovely day and were dropped off at a local museum PLETH, which opened in November, Petra Life Exhibition For Traditional Heritage. www.pleth.org There were good exhibits on the traditional medicines based on herbs, an incense section, perfumes and aromatics, a local sweets section and traditional drinks and a documentary film on the Nabataean Life at Petra and lots of photos from the early 1900s of Petra. We met our friends and driver and went back to Aqaba to be dropped off in the city centre for a quick sunset stroll. We walked among the Ayla ruins, Gene rode a camel in the city streets outside of McDonald’s (what a scene!) and we enjoyed the sunset.

Jordan derives its name from the Arabic phrase “al urdun”, the ancient name for the Jordan River and surrounding territory. There is a fertile valley from the Mount Hermon to the Dead Sea. The Kingdom of Jordan, one of the smallest Middle Eastern nations, is made even smaller by the fact that the modest parcel is mostly desert. The Dead Sea is rich in minerals. Wadis, expansive valleys created during ancient torrential deluges, divide the terrain into four regions associated with an Old Testament kingdom: Kerak, Balqa, Ajlun and Ma’an.

“He who conquers others is strong; he who conquers himself is mighty.” - Anonymous

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Muscat and Salalah, Oman and birthdays!

Sunday, March 27, 2011 – Muscat, Oman and Captain’s 50th birthday

Oman is the oldest Gulf State dating back 5000 years. It was one of the few sources for copper and we read it was shipped to Mesopotamia. Regional importance grew when Frankincense, derived from the native Boswellia tree, emerged as a popular religious instrument. The Portuguese traders established a fort at Hormusz in the 16th century, ruling for only 100 years.

We had an early morning arrival to Muscat, the capital of Oman. The port is actually in Muttrah and we were greeted by buses quick to whisk us off to the main gate. We found a nice taxi driver, Habib, who drove us for 8 hours out of town, past many roundabouts which are adorned with giant model sculptures. The sculptures have significance for that area – coffee pots, incense burners, fish, boats and books. The roundabout near the University has a “sculpture” of large books on it. A large fish is in the roundabout near the fish souk/market.

We continued out through the desert surrounded by the high, dry Western Al Hajar mountains. Our first stop was the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque – women must have their arms, legs and head completely covered in order to enter the mosque. Men and women must wash before entering the mosque and shoes must be removed. There is a women’s mosque where they can view the service on TVs, broadcast live from the main mosque, where only men can enter to pray. The doors, rugs, chandeliers and walls were magnificent in colors and fabrics.
An hour’s plus ride down the road, we came to the oasis town of Birkat Al Mauz, where we found the above-ground covered water cistern with the fresh mountain water running in to town. There is an extensive network of falaj channels irrigating its date gardens which extend out of town. There are over 40 different varieties of date palms in Nizwa.
We came to Nizwa, which was the capital of Oman in the 6th and 7th centuries and has a vast round tower of the fort beside the new bright cobalt-blue dome of the Sultan Qaboos Mosque. One of the oldest and largest forts in Oman, it was completed in 1668, to protect its strategic position at the crossroads of the caravan routes. There were various courtyards and outbuildings with prisons, storerooms, kitchens, washing areas, sleeping quarters, a mosque, a Koranic school, majlis (prayer) rooms, a judge’s room and living quarters for the wali.

We continued down the road to Manah, Oman’s most impressive ruined town. It was even the guide’s first time to visit the town! The mosque dates back to 1534 and there is continuous renovation of the old town. The walls were made of mud and the wooden beams supporting the floors above had collapsed. We had a pretty drive back to Muttrah with time to explore the souk, the market place. It is the oldest in Oman with a covered intricate labyrinth of stalls, curio shops and winding alleys. Indian merchants are predominant. The aromas from the spices, the incense and the perfume shops were overwhelming!

Men wear the dishdasha, an ankle-length robe. It is usually white for daytime wear and there are a variety of colors for evening and special occasions. The kuman is the small embroidered cap worn by Omani men. The embroidery comes in a variety of colors and floral or geometric designs to match the dishdasha. On formal occasions a musr, turban, is often worn. A khanjar, curved sheathed dagger, is worn, attached to a belt, is also worn on special occasions. The assa, stick, is another part of the Omani traditional costume, which was used in the past to control the camels. They wear leather sandals, or flip flops!, and a bisht, cloak, on formal occasions.

Women wear a black cover-all gown in public, an abaya. Under this, they may have a colorful traditional ankle-length dress. Headscarves are worn and in some areas, a burka, a face mask. Some (many) women wear western clothes, but cover up with the abaya outside the home. It is traditional for women to have their hands and feet painted with henna at times of celebration.

After visiting Oman and Dubai one day after another, I found Oman more interesting. The culture is real, the countryside has high mountains and there are natural sights. Dubai: 80% of the population are not natives, the malls are the main attraction (how much of anything does a person really need?), there is no visible “culture”, the streets are empty of people (you do not see movement in the streets or in homes), everything is over-the-top - - the marketing people of the world won – they certainly get their quota of visitors. It is worth a visit but you feel like it is a fairy tale. Try to find a native Emirati and you really have to search hard. Consider a week’s cruise departing from Dubai so you can judge for yourself.

Music and Mayhem of Davie Howes as our entertainer.

Monday, March 28 – Luisa’s birthday in the Arabian Sea

Tai-chi and took a nap. Gene had invited our group to formal tea at 3PM and they all showed up! We had our cakes (marcipan and white sugar) and they were devoured! I got ½ a slice of my own cake! And no marcipan flowers! Next time, I separate my piece BEFORE anyone tries a piece. This is the 2nd time I’ve ended up with ZIP of my special-order cake! But we enjoyed the time with the group and were honored they took the time to join us on our very last minute invitation. Dinner was nice and I had a chocolate cake to share with everyone at the table. The waiters sang to me in English and Indonesian. Nice night but I missed being with the family and friends. Amsterdam singers and dancers in “Dancin’ Fool”.

Tuesday, March 29 – Gene’s birthday in Salalah, Oman

Desert and very high mountains. We spent most of the morning in 1st gear going up and down steep mountain roads. That was BEFORE I returned to the ship with a couple who needed emergency attention by the ship’s doctor. The gentleman ended up with a broken nose, broken glasses, stitches on his arm and leg/shin and being pretty banged up. Another woman fell at the same spot but was able to carry on with the tour. And Gene had a woman fall at the same spot and break her wrist! So the ship’s medical had a total of six calls for assistance – quite a record we hear.

My tour was supposed to visit a frankincense tree, Job’s tomb (Biblical hero admired by Jews and Christians and Muslims worldwide) and a souk (market) and drive past the Sultan’s summer palace, Al Hosn Palace. I saw a tree. We drove 45 minutes along the coast line, to stop in the desert to see this tree. We learned how the bark is scraped and left for sap to ooze out. After approx. 10-15 days, the sap is taken and sold to be burned in churches. Then we arrived at Job’s tomb and all the accidents occurred and that was it (very uneven pavement near the restrooms). Never saw the tomb or the souk. Gene at least managed to get to the souk. There was a small duty-free shop in the port area so we wandered over there and bought some “wanted but not needed items” as we say and enjoyed it.

Education is free in Oman. Education is combined for males and females until they reach age 10 and then they attend separate classrooms. Camels eat the frankincense so they have fences around the trees. All the streets seemed empty of life; houses are closed up. If you hit a camel while driving, there is camel insurance. Cows do not have insurance and you have to pay the owner the cost of the cow. Free healthcare. Since 1970, they have built over 50 healthcare centers in Salalah alone; there was one prior to that date. The flight for medical care is provided at government cost, if you live too far away or need care from a hospital in a different region. Salalah is two hours from the Yemen border. They claim there are five checkpoints between Salalah and the border. Each family receives free land from the government to build their home. They pay to build the home – approx. cost is $160K for a one bedroom home. Most were one level concrete homes with a 2nd level that held only the water tank. Beginning salaries are approx. $600 month and the government will find you a job! Once you complete your “free” education, you go to the government center and they will try to match your qualifications to an open position. All I kept thinking was, “I’m paying for their ‘free’ education, healthcare and land with my gas purchases in the USA”.
You could pay approx. $300K for a racing camel and $15K for a milking camel (who knew you could milk a camel or who knows someone who drinks camel’s milk? Not me.). Camels have IDs on their ears and are all owned by individuals. The Sultan travels around the country for two months every year to meet with the residents to find out their grievances and see the progress taking place from last year’s visit.

Dinner was nice with some friends at our table, wine and birthday cake! More singing and the Kent Dancers performed. The front office crew put a lovely birthday sign with four balloons on our door. Two bottles of wine were delivered from the Beverage Department and bottle of champagne from the Guest Relations Supervisor. We’re spoiled!
Entertainment was the brother/sister Australian dance team The Kent Dancers. They were in Las Vegas at the Golden Nugget, on Dancing with the Stars and toured in the US for the Simply Ballroom.

Wednesday, March 30 – at sea in the Gulf of Aden; we are protected by NATO forces around us – heading for Bab-el Mandeb, lying between Yemen and Djibouti – entrance to the Red Sea

Tai-chi class and than a wonderful luncheon experience in the Pinnacle Grill. We were hosted this time by two from our group and had a nice lunch. Walked the decks, saw flying fish (they come up from under the ship and spray themselves at the surface – quite fascinating), worked, met with people, watched an English movie about the right of women to have equal pay in the UK in 1970, formal night and Unexpected Boys performed (Frankie Valli/Four Seasons tribute) – I went to both shows. Plus we had the gala dessert extravaganza at 9:30 and they had marcipan!

Today was CELEBRATION DAY to collectively celebrate the special moments in our lives with shipboard family and friends. Whether it is a birthday or anniversary, a shared moment of triumph or a personal victory, today is the day we can all raise a glass, salute one another and celebrate. (loved it!)

Thoughts that ramble around in your head when you see the security officers on the promenade deck in each corner of the ship, day and night, with their binoculars…We see several destroyers and helicopters around us; there have been no reports of piracy around us but who knows? We are inside this small blip of a vessel in the middle of this vast ocean. You feel like you are in your own little world, totally protected, but how wrong you could be – just open the door and take a glance out to the real world
And the size of the ocean – the size of the world. I think frequently of the vast size of these oceans. We’ve had days after days of seeing just “water on the horizon”. I love it. Some people need to see land-in-sight. But it is mind-boggling how many days you could sit outside and see nothing, nothing, nothing…just water, water, water. We have gone for days without seeing other ships!! And then you think about that there are so many creatures under the water. When you consider the size of our vessel compared to the size of the ocean(s), we are lucky we have seen even one dolphin or a few flying fish! Scanning the surface of the water seems so futile and so deceptive. We are s m a l l creatures on this very large planet.

“If you want others to be happy, practice compassion. If you want to be happy, practice compassion.” – the 14th Dalai Lama

March 31, 2011 – at sea –
We are through the Gulf of Aden and there are now less potential piracy issues. Lazy, quiet day – the one my brother dared me to try to enjoy. Piano lounge for playing and singing, Chorale practice, lunch with friends, watched movie “The King’s Speech” in our room, dinner and then the Captain announced ANOTHER itinerary change – our 3rd! We are back to a stop in Egypt! We were supposed to have three stops in Egypt – they cancelled all of them – now they are adding one back in. Safaga, Egypt – Saturday. It is a 3+ hour bus ride each way to Luxor/Karnak so it will be a long day and then the next day we have a 2+ hour ride each way from Aqaba Jordan to Petra. But all worth it! People are scurrying around trying to figure out which tour option for Safaga. Nice to have the library onboard. Internet was down while we were through the Gulf of Aden for security issues – that was interesting and I don’t remember that from last time.

We are given gifts on our formal nights. Luggage tags, diaries, maps of the world with plotting grids, rolling suitcases, ceramic tiles. They spend a lot of money to make the trip extra special. Variety entertainment show of Kuba, Davie Howes, John Ekin and the Kent Dancers. We are now only seven hours ahead of Delaware/NY time.

Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, regarded by ancient Romans and Greeks as the most extraordinary structures in antiquity:
- Pyramids of Giza (Egypt) – they are the only one remaining nearly intact today
- Hanging Gardens of Babylon – 600 BC – series of planted terraces
- Statue of Zeus at Olympia (Greece) – was the central figure of the Temple of Zeus at Olympia, were the Olympic games were held
- Temple of Artemis at Ephesus (Turkey) temple with 127 stone columns – one column remains today
- Mausoleum of Halicarnassus (Turkey) – marble tomb in memory of Mausolus
- Colossus of Rhodes (Greece) – bronze statue of the Greek sun god Helios to guard entrance to the harbor
- Pharos of Alexandria (Egypt) – ancient lighthouse

“The past is like a river flowing out of sight; the future is an ocean filled with opportunity and delight.” - Anna Hoxie