Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Sochi Russia photos #2



Luisa by church and Gene by the Sochi welcome sign near the port

Sochi Russia photos #2



Luisa by church and Gene by the Sochi welcome sign near the port

Sochi Russia photos



Luisa and Gene in front of port building and Gene by Stalin's desk at his dacha (summer home)

Istanbul photos



Luisa near the Blue Mosque and at the Cistern in Istanbul

Santorini GREECE

Tuesday, April 27, 2010 – Santorini, Greece
One of the most beautiful islands in the world with villages on the high mountains so they look like snow and the blue Aegean Sea below

We did not have a good night so we decided to take it easy getting off the ship and did not rush. Tenders took us to shore where they are shops and a funicular to the top – where the town of Fira is located.

The streets are all cobblestone and hilly. We wandered around and decided to take local buses so we headed to Oia, the village at the northern part of the island. Pretty mountainous scenery, flat plains dotted with white homes and bright blue-domed churches were below.

We found the internet at the local library so we worked there. Took another local bus to Perissa and we went through some nice small villages and to Akrotiri, where excavations have been halted. One area had a Black Beach and one was a Red Beach. Quaint white domed homes, horses roaming wild and fields with no crops planted yet. Beautiful drive for a very reasonable price and since we were feeling out of sorts, it was a great way to relax and see the countryside.

Santorini pronounced (San-to-ree-nee) is a small, circular archipelago of volcanic islands located in the southern Aegean Sea, about 120 miles southeast from Greece’s mainland. It is also known as Thera, forming the southernmost member of the Cyclades group of islands, with a population of 13,670. It is composed of the Municipality of Thira (pop. 12,440) and the Community of Oia (pop. 1,230). Santorini is essentially what remains of an enormous volcanic explosion, destroying the earliest settlements on what was formerly a single island. A giant central lagoon measuring about 8 miles by 4 miles is surrounded by 984-foot high steep cliffs on three sides. The island slopes downward from the cliffs to the surrounding Aegean Sea. Santorini is the only inhabited Caldera (volcano cauldron) in the world.

The primary industry is tourism, particularly in the summer months. It has no rivers, and water is scarce. Until the early 1990s locals filled water cisterns from the rain falling on roofs and courts, from small springs, and with imported assistance from other areas of Greece. In recent years a desalination plant has provided running, but non-potable, water to most houses. There is a small, but flourishing, wine industry, based on the indigenous grape variety, Assyrtikko. Vines of the Assyrtiko variety are extremely old and prove resistant to phylloxera, attributed by local winemakers to the well-drained volcanic soil and its chemistry. In their adaptation to their habitat, such vines are planted far apart, as their principal source of moisture is dew, and they often are trained in the shape of low-spiraling baskets, with the grapes hanging inside to protect them from the winds.

Gialos (known as the old port) is Fira's small port and sits 900 feet below Fira town. It nestles under the caldera with a path containing 588-zigzagged steps. You can attempt to walk up the steps but be warned, they are narrow in places with very low walls. The path is covered in donkey excrement and the donkeys will make no attempt to avoid you. You can take donkeys up the winding steps or the easy way is by the electric cable car for the three-minute trip. It was installed as a gift from the wealthy Santorini ship owner Evangels Nomikos in 1979.

Oia (pronounced E-ah) faces south in a fishbone layout. Oia (sometimes listed as Ia) is located on the north of the island, 7 miles from Fira. The main pedestrian street connects across the top of the cliff with many local branches. The village was also, devastated by the 1956 earthquake and has never fully recovered. Oia has several cultural attractions like the Maritime Museum which houses a small library, items from the maritime life of the area, and the vestiges of a Venetian fortress. Oia is famous for its sunset and the narrow passageways get crowded in the evenings. The most popular spot to watch the sunset is by the Kastro walls. Sunsets viewed from Oia are reputed to be among the world's most beautiful. As seen on a zillion postcards, the characteristic classic view of Oia is the bright white and blue of the church contrasting with the deep blue of the Aegean Sea in the background.

Walked back through the village to the teleferico and back to the harbor. On the tender to the ship and to dinner and laundry and resting. The view at night is magnificent…full moon and lights on at Santorini…!! Wow.

“Every generalization is dangerous, especially this one.” – Mark Twain

Athens Greece...on a Monday

Monday, April 26, 2010 – Athens, Greece
Well, Monday is not the best day to visit Athens if you plan to visit museums. They are all closed.

BUT there is still a lot to see. Beside the Acropolis and the many archeological ruins, just walking around is relaxing. The birds were singing and the sun was shining; we enjoyed the wonderful aromas coming from the local cafes as we wandered the streets around the Plaka.

Gene took an early morning panoramic tour for three hours while I stayed in the room and worked. I managed to get pretty caught up with most of my work. We had lunch with friends and then took the city bus (#40) direct from the pier to Constitution Square, where we could see the changing of the guards hourly, on the hour. We walked the streets leading toward the Acropolis and met our stateroom neighbors who had disembarked earlier today! They are heading to Egypt and Jordan tomorrow for an 18-day overland trip. We spent about an hour wandering around and then caught the bus back to the ship, passing the Marriott Hotel where we had stayed about two years ago.

Back on the ship, we ate in the Lido buffet with three other friends and got off to work on the internet. NO SUCH LUCK. It is such a bummer to try to connect with supposed free WIFI and never get connected. I feel badly for the crew as it is their time to call home during their limited free time (2 hours) and they do not have enough time to play around to try to find a café so at least the port terminals could provide that service. I am going to send a suggestion to the port.

AND there were at least 15 large 48-passenger buses waiting to enter the port for a Pullmantur ship, but there was a strike and no was allowed to enter the ship! “It is Greece, after all”, as we were told twice today. We could hear the strikers hollering outside the terminal but we were inside trying to connect to the internet. I have no idea if the Spaniards ever did get on their ship.

We had a Greek cultural music and dance by local musicians and dancers and they were wonderful. We had dances from the islands and dances from mainland Greece. Colorful costumes and energetic dancers gave us a good feel of the rhythms and movements.

We sailed under a full moon. Wherever you are, we are seeing the same moon!! It is so lovely on the sea as you walk the open deck.

Gene is not feeling well and will go to the doctor tomorrow.

“The ship’s captain and crew wish you a restful sleep tonight as we look to tomorrow’s horizons.” – nightly message from the Prinsendam Captain and crew (given with two chocolates!)

Kusadasi Turkey

April 25, 2010 - Sunday -

There is much to do from this port – the incredibly preserved ancient city of Ephesus, the House of the Virgin Mary and shopping.

We hired a driver with some Australian friends and headed south to the ruins of Priene, Miletus and Didyma. All three of these ruins had harbors and the water has receded now approx. 3-5 miles inland. I really could not imagine how they could be equal to Ephesus but indeed they were! We had a great full day of touring.

The furthest south is Didyma, about an hour’s drive away. You come upon it so suddenly and it is striking with 120 giant columns rising out of the hole of excavations. It is home to an oracle that rivaled its Delphi counterpart and was probably only second in importance because Delphi was nearer to Athens. An oracle did not speak to average people – a priest served as an interpreter. A sacred spring bubbled from the ground and from there the priest and oracle found their answers. According to the legend, Apollo favored the region so he built the Temple of Apollo at the end of the 8th century BC. It was destroyed by the Persians in 494 BC and was rebuilt in 334 BC. When Christianity spread into the region, a church was built near the site of the Temple. One marble block is regarded as the biggest architectural component in the world; it weighs 70 tons and is surrounded by 124 columns standing in two rows on a stepped platform. There were several marble heads of Medusa, the woman with the snake hair.

Next was Miletos, founded as a Mycenaean colony in 2000 BC. It had four harbors and was connected by a 13 mile sacred marble road from Didyma. It became an important center for trade, culture, art and science from the 7th century BC. There is an open air Temple of Delphinius with a 15,000 seat amphitheatre and the well-preserved Faustina Baths (constructed for the wife of Emperor Marcus Aurelius) with a training and wrestling school. There are the remains of a market and church and two other temples.

Priene has a steep climb up and steep walk down as it is perched high on the craggy slopes of Mt. Mykale. This was an important city around 300 BC when the League of Ionian Cities held congresses and festivals here. The most impressive is the Temple of Athena, the epitome of an Ionian temple. Five columns have been re-erected and all around lie the sections of other columns, like giant stone wheels, arranged so neatly as if you could just pull up these pieces to create another column. The theatre is one of the best preserved examples of the Hellenistic period with seating for 6500 people. Some of the seats in the front rows have names finely carved names of the VIPs. They have found coins from 500 BC and the city was built on a grid-plan.

We enjoyed a short stop at a local store for drinks and Q-tips! The people are lovely in the small villages. In the touristy areas, they may seem aggressive but they are making a living with their crafts – carpets, weavings, art, postcards, leather and furs.

I was exhausted from the last few days and went to bed after a buffet dinner and slept for almost 11 hours. The entertainer sounded great but I could not get there-- Mark O’Malley from the UK, a singer extraordinaire.

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” - Mark Twain

Volos Greece

Saturday, April 24, 2010 – Volos Greece
Volos is a lovely port town in the state of Thessaly. We are 200 miles north of Athens.

There is a long stretch of waterfront cafes. We took a ship’s tour to the archeological museum. It was filled with artifacts from 3000 BC: burial finds, painted funerary stelae, jewelry, coins and tiny sculptures of the human body. There was an interesting progression in clay of a pregnant woman.

We continued to Makrinitsa, a village perched high on Mt. Pelion mountain at 2400 feet. If you don’t like windy roads, perhaps this is not the tour for you. But the view from the top and walking around the village were enjoyable. The red bud trees were in full bloom and absolutely spectacular. The traditional houses were built with three stories at the front, and only one at the back, giving the impression they are stacked on top of each other. We wandered the narrow cobblestone streets that all lead to the main square with its old hollow plane tree, sculptured marble fountain and the little church of Agios Ionnis.

Greece is the 3th largest producer of cement in the world. They produce 800,000 tons of cotton a year. Volos is the home of Jason and Argonauts, who went in search of the Golden Fleece.

This is the port to visit Meteora, where monasteries seem to be balanced on the head of granite pins. Many faiths recognize a tradition of secluded monasteries where monks pursue undistracted contemplation and religious study. No such system is more ingrained than it is in the Easter Orthodox Church. The temples were begun in the 11th century. Each temple has extremely valuable frescoes and other priceless artwork but security has never been a concern. Access is only via very steep marble steps, some winding around the monastery, until you reach a very small monastery at the top of the mountain. A few rooms are carved out of the stone and there is sometimes a pulley system to get heavier items up to the monastery. They are fascinating to visit and the countryside has pocket caves on colorful stone mountains.

It was the “Night of the Gods” and all waiters and crew were dressed in togas. They are VERY creative and it is fun. Paul Brogan, Irish comedian, was the entertainer.

“Some experiences simply do not translate. You have to go to know.” - Kobi Yamada

Scenic cruising in Turkey

Friday, April 23, 2010 – at sea sailing through the Bosporus and Marmara Seas and the Dardenelles – National Turkish Day so all the homes had their red flags out on display – formal night

Foggy in the morning but as we began our commentary on the Bosporus; the fog dissipated and the sun came out. In some areas we were as close to shore as if you were on a river boat cruise and we enjoyed seeing the small towns and mosques. Had lunch with friends, stayed outside quite a while for the scenic cruising and enjoyed the day.

So we came from the Black Sea, through the Bosporus Strait, to the Sea of Marmara, through the Dardenelles Strait to the Aegean Sea. The Dardanelles Strait separates the European part of Turkey from the Asian part. There are several islands which have famous quarries of white marble.

Facts:
Dardenelles: length – 38 miles; depth 300 feet, width 4 miles
Marmara: 4363 square miles
Bosporus: l8.5 miles long, 407 feet deep and 2460 feet wide

Just before dinner, we sailed past Istanbul. It has a spectacular skyline with minarets and the city wall on a sloped hill.

During dinner we sailed past the Gallipoli peninsular, which was a major battle for the Australians and New Zealanders during WWI. We saw the monuments erected in honor of the over 300,000 killed during that battle with the Turks.

The Gallipoli Campaign took place on the Gallipoli peninsula in Turkey from April 25, 1915 to January 9, 1916 during WWI. A joint British and French operation was mounted to capture the Ottoman capital of Constantinople (Istanbul today) and secure a sea route to Russia. The attempt failed, with heavy casualties on both sides. In Turkey, the battle is perceived as a defining moment in the history of the Turkish people – a final surge in the defense of the motherland as the centuries-old Ottoman Empire was crumbling. The struggle laid the foundation for the Turkish War of Independence and the Foundation of the Turkish Republic eight years later under Attaturk, himself a commander at Gallipoli.
Annabelle Lawson, a young English pianist, entertained us with fabulous playing. She has a remarkable sound and touch on the ivory keys.

“Life is what happens to us while we are making other plans.” – Thomas La Mance

Scenic cruising in Turkey

Friday, April 23, 2010 – at sea sailing through the Bosporus and Marmara Seas and the Dardenelles – National Turkish Day so all the homes had their red flags out on display – formal night

Foggy in the morning but as we began our commentary on the Bosporus; the fog dissipated and the sun came out. In some areas we were as close to shore as if you were on a river boat cruise and we enjoyed seeing the small towns and mosques. Had lunch with friends, stayed outside quite a while for the scenic cruising and enjoyed the day.

So we came from the Black Sea, through the Bosporus Strait, to the Sea of Marmara, through the Dardenelles Strait to the Aegean Sea. The Dardanelles Strait separates the European part of Turkey from the Asian part. There are several islands which have famous quarries of white marble.

Facts:
Dardenelles: length – 38 miles; depth 300 feet, width 4 miles
Marmara: 4363 square miles
Bosporus: l8.5 miles long, 407 feet deep and 2460 feet wide

Just before dinner, we sailed past Istanbul. It has a spectacular skyline with minarets and the city wall on a sloped hill.

During dinner we sailed past the Gallipoli peninsular, which was a major battle for the Australians and New Zealanders during WWI. We saw the monuments erected in honor of the over 300,000 killed during that battle with the Turks.

The Gallipoli Campaign took place on the Gallipoli peninsula in Turkey from April 25, 1915 to January 9, 1916 during WWI. A joint British and French operation was mounted to capture the Ottoman capital of Constantinople (Istanbul today) and secure a sea route to Russia. The attempt failed, with heavy casualties on both sides. In Turkey, the battle is perceived as a defining moment in the history of the Turkish people – a final surge in the defense of the motherland as the centuries-old Ottoman Empire was crumbling. The struggle laid the foundation for the Turkish War of Independence and the Foundation of the Turkish Republic eight years later under Attaturk, himself a commander at Gallipoli.
Annabelle Lawson, a young English pianist, entertained us with fabulous playing. She has a remarkable sound and touch on the ivory keys.

“Life is what happens to us while we are making other plans.” – Thomas La Mance

Sinop Turkey on Dad's birthday

Thursday, April 22, 2010 – Happy Birthday, Dad!! – Sinop Turkey
Turkish merchants were responsible for bringing Europe its first coffee beans.

After starting out with gray-ish weather and with a tour van whose microphone does not work for 23 people, we found this port very quaint, interesting and well-worth the visit. We wanted a few more hours to explore!!

The approach is supposed to be on the most scenic in the Black Sea but, alas, the weather did not cooperate. We arrived in the mist and set off exploring with Mr. Adem in an older 27 passenger mini-coach and we discovered the microphone did not work. We drove through the small city centre to find a repair shop and then out to a fortress in the hillside that has been turned into an arts and crafts demonstration area INSIDE a prison.

Next we headed up a very steep hill, not completely paved, and again, there are certain times you do not want to be in the front of the bus...to me, this was one of them. I don’t like seeing the narrow streets and near-scrapes of the cars on either side of us NOR seeing the deep ruts of wet mud we were driving through to get to the top of this hill. I kept wondering WHY are we going here and what are we going to see?????

But why do I doubt? It was still gray out but we had a wonderful view and perspective of the peninsula and Sinop. We could see the ship and see how deceiving it could be to find north/south/east/west from Sinop. There was a U.S. military base here for many years with a small American community also but there are not many locals who speak English. We also heard the echoing of the call to prayer as it reverberated throughout the city.

We toured the Balatlar church, a ruin from 660 AD is the best example of Byzantium brick and stone masonry. Very interesting mix of layers of red brick and then concrete and a few frescoes on the domed ceiling in the nave of the church.

The Ethnographical Museum was not going to be a highlight – or so we thought. It is a 3-storey wooden home decorated with what seem to be floral hand painted friezes at the top of the wall, in the middle of the wall and on each door panel. It is a unique example of the Ottoman’s civil architecture from the 18th century; a true picture of residential life it he Ottoman time. It was very colorful and even the tops of the door frames are curved and colorful. The historical and archeological society have created a masterpiece museum with each room filled with an aspect of their daily life – a bride’s room, a groom’s room, a gun room, a baby and mother, a prayer room, dining room, kitchen…all with wax figures in full costume. It was an informative and colorful way to better understand the local culture.

The Archeological Museum had artifacts both inside and outside – reliefs from 400 BC recently unearthed from the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantium, Seljuks and Ottoman period are protected and displayed.

The Alaaddin Mosque - we can only enter when they are not praying. Men wash their feet and arms in the round center fountain outside the mosque. All remove their shoes to enter and the carpet is perfectly fitted with a pattern just wide and long enough for a person to bend over and pray. The women pray from the upper level of the mosque as their bending over would be a distraction for the men as they would view the back end of the woman in front of them, thus causing a mental distraction!

The Muslim Theological School (Pervane Medrese) was built in 1262 and is now a tourist trap – filled with interesting crafts (I bought two rings!) but nothing left of the school.

The “historical” prison was a real eye-opener. If you saw the movie “Midnight Express”, it was filmed here – do I need to write more? It was only closed in 1979 and they had 600 prisoners at that time. Considering it was built in 1215 and operational as a prison since 1873 with very thick stone walls, no plumbing, something resembling a toilet in a “few” cells and thick doors and iron padlocks, it was a powerful reminder of how prisoners could be treated in a foreign country. Most of the comments from the group were about how overboard the U.S. system is in the reverse direction compared to what we saw today.

The drive through town to the Hamsilos fjord was through a farm region with sheep and cows roaming wildly, wild waves crashing on a long expanse of pebbly sand and a university whose dormitory had an incredible view of the Black Sea waves crashing on a gorgeous beach. The fjord had crystal clear water in a narrow channel – no high mountains as one usually imagines – and nearby was the Akliman Bay with a boat rental area, picnic spot and café. VERY NICE undiscovered beachy area.

The South Sinop Castle, the symbol of the city, was built in 2000 BC. It was directly in front of our ship and we climbed the hundreds of steps to the top. Not easy regular-sized steps but double-high and slippery and angled and wet with no hand-bar steps. But what an incredible view from the top! The sun was shining and the sky was clear; the ship was on one side of us and the castle’s courtyard and stone walls on the other side. Not a bad way to end the day.

We had free time to venture in to the town, found a men’s hairdresser for Gene, I played on the internet and I enjoyed some Turkish tea while I waited (a local café brings it over on a round tray with a handle in a small hourglass), talked to a cute little 11-year old boy who was trying so hard to speak to me in English – Yes, My name is… -- was the extent of his English and my Turkish was even less. But we smiled and kept trying. Time to board the ship and we saw the town disappear in the wake of the ship as we were off to our next port of call.

The oldest name of the city Sinop has been found as Sinope. It took its name from Amazon that is accepted as the founder of the city. According to another legend, the city has been founded in ancient Greece by Sinope who was one of the water fairy girls of Asopos, the God of Rivers. Coins with her head are dated between the 3rd-5th century BC.

Amazon women founded a state near the Black Sea coast. They rode horses and used arrows as war materials; worshiped Athena, the War God and they participated in the Trojan War. The queen of the Amazons, Penthesileia was killed by Asil during the war.

Have you heard of Diogenes, “the long-suffering thinker”? He lived in Sinop between the years 412-320 BC and was one of the pioneers of the principles of self-sufficiency and plainness. It is said he walked around the streets in daylight with a lantern in his hand to find a trustworthy man. His principle is “to have everything inside oneself that is required for happiness”.

Dinner was in the Lido buffet – at a table for two. Time to unwind a little and enjoy time with the crew; they are the absolute most friendly crew on any ship. It is so much fun to share a meal with them – or rather, they serve us as we dine but they hang around and we talk. They cannot do enough for you. One of our friends had purchased a fresh loaf of Turkish bread and shared it with everyone – a real treat.

Laundry, production show called “Latin Nights” and computer….can’t wait to relax at sea tomorrow.

“God does not simply will that we should be happy, but rather that we should make ourselves happy.” - Immanuel Kant

Trabzon Turkey



Wednesday, April 21, 2010 – TRABZON, TURKEY
Largest port in the Turkish Black Sea – from here goods are trucked to Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Iran. Cloudy beginning and then hard rain made for a magical day at the Sumela Monastery.

Our EZOP Tours guide, Mr. Taner, met us in a 31 passenger van and we ventured off to the Sumela Monastery, one of the highlights of the Black Sea coast. It is a Greek Orthodox Monastery of the Virgin Mary begun in the 6th century, continued through Byzantine times (14th century) and abandoned in 1923. The road winds through dense evergreen forest, following the course of a rushing mountain stream interrupted by commercial trout fisheries. Village houses reminiscent of those in the alpine area of central Europe are interspersed with more modern brick block of homes. You can hike to the monastery or take a smaller shuttle van but even after the short drive, there is still a hike to the entrance.

From below, you see the monastery columns flat-faced into the sides of the cliff and it is SO HIGH on the cliff you wonder how anyone could have built it, let along lived there and transported all their goods up to there. It looks like it has been pasted on the side of the hill at 3900 feet above sea level. The final road leading to the walking path had no shoulders, had 180 degree switchbacks and proved again it was another good time to NOT have a front seat, or even a window seat.

As you begin to walk up you soon realize you are not in the safety-conscious USA, as you going to be walking through the roots of huge trees where no concrete or brick can be used and you will not have a safety guardrail or handrail to which to cling. And you then find steep stone steps, worn from years of use and soft earth, as this is the wettest region and rain is expected daily.

You reach the final steps and see a jewel of a monastery beneath you with frescoes from the 9th century, but they are not in perfect condition. Many have holes in them and are falling off the walls. The church of the Assumption of the Virgin and the large monastery complex had five floors and a total of 72 rooms. The upper floor was used as a gallery and a lookout post.

The walk-out from the monastery was just as time consuming as it was sprinkling rain now and the roots and slippery stone steps were to be calculated with every step.

We drove back to town and had an informative review of Turkey:
- Iran is 360 miles away and Iranians use this port of Trabzon
- Gasoline is $8 a gallon which includes a 75% tax
- They export vegetables to Russia
- They are the world’s largest producer of hazel nuts
- Many live and work in Germany and send money back to their families members in Trabzon – one family member remains to keep a residence in the village – village land is valuable and hard to get – you don’t want to give up your family homestead
- University is free (meaning the government – their taxes pay for it) –

Drive to the top of Bozetepe Hill for a supposed panoramic view but it was pouring rain by now. There were many cafes and you could imagine how nice it would be to sit there on a clear day.

St. Sophia church – decorated in Byzantine and Seljuk styles is probably the town’s most important tourist attraction. Built in the 13th century as a church, it was converted to a mosque in 1670 and served as a storage and hospital during WWI. There were beautiful icons and frescoes on the walls and floor showing Biblical stories in great detail and outside was a rose garden.

Internet cafés seem to be full of locals playing games! War and hunting and search-type games. We can see all their screens as we try to be serious and get work accomplished!

McDonalds and Burger King are here – it is amazing where you find them. The rain continued, but in a soft downfall.

Ms. Robin Fellows was the American singer this evening – she gave a powerful performance of classic songs from Broadway and the ‘40-‘50s.

“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them.” - Walt Disney

Batumi photos



Folkloric dancing with the children at the home visit and Gene in the streets of Batumi

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Batumi Georgia

Tuesday, April 20, 2010 – Batumi Georgia
How fortunate we are to have these ports with such wonderful weather!! The Black Sea ports were the ones we were the most excited about visiting and so far we are being blessed with wonderful weather!!

Arrived to Batumi, Georgia, by 8:00. The mountains in the distance are massive and jagged peaks and lots of snow on them. It is a majestic sight. And then to see the snow-covered mountains and steep slopes leading down to the palm trees and marina….where else in the world can you see the snow and beach in one glance?

The sun was coming up from the east over the mountains as we headed straight in to the port of Batumi. The police were all over the ship, checking our documentation, and cleared us to disembark. We are only the third ship EVER for this port so it is all rather new to them.

Gene and I ran off to see what we could see in ½ hour and were our eyes opened. The streets are not paved and have massive pot holes filled with water and no curbing. We were shocked. It looked war-ravaged, which in fact it might be – but we found out later they are installing a new water system in the city. But why would you disrupt the ENTIRE city (except the high rent district) with such a disruption? Deep puddles all over and corrugated roofing on the side of some of the homes.

Found the local baker delivering his fresh bread so of course I could not resist. It was only 8:20 AM and I knew it was fresh….we popped in to a nice café and the pastries looked delicious. I gave her a dollar (their currency is the lari and the rate is 1.7 to the dollar) and she immediately picked up a muffin. How did she know I wanted that one??? Then I realized it was for someone else – so she gave me “Lari” in exchange for my dollar and I choose my pastry. Delicious! And about $0.30.

Ran back to the ship and I was on the tour “City Highlights and Home Visit” and it was one of the best tours I have ever taken. Diana was our guide – who started out shy at first and then she really blossomed. She is studying to be an attorney –and she told us that marrying age girls are “kidnapped” by someone who wants to marry them, are held for one-two weeks without any notice to their family and then they are married. Her brother was protecting her from this happening to her and she is studying hard. She learned English in school in Batumi and has two years remaining at University and two years of magistrate school (assuming this is her law school).

We drove up to a very high viewpoint for a panoramic view of the city and it was a crystal clear day without a cloud in the sky. The sun was brilliant and any blemish on a landscape can be forgiven with perfect weather.

According to our standards, the road was terrible. Bumpy, one lane plus, no shoulder, switch-backs…and we continued UP even further. We arrived to the home of our Georgian host and toured their home – a two-story house they built themselves 25 years ago. From my memory bank, I was reminded of my grandmother’s home about 40+ years ago. The china closet with glass panel and doors on the bottom, small square sofa, small dining table…They have chickens and a cow – a motorcycle and an older model car. His garage was immaculate with his tools on hooks secured directly in to the concrete block walls. The grandmother was in the kitchen cooking a combination bread, egg and cheese pizza – and she made enough for 60+ people!! It was very tasty and went great with the homemade vodka, wine, coffee and tea they offered us at 10:00!

The men were working on the still (vodka) and playing backgammon at a side table in the yard. There was a beautiful gazebo overlooking the city and they had a long table by its side all set for our morning tea. What fun! We toasted and tasted.

And then the best of all! A group of school children ages 6-12 danced and sang their folkloric songs and dances. And child actors are not to be underestimated! Quite a few hams in the group and we all clapped to the lively music and laughed. It was a lot of fun.

Back to the city to tour two churches – the Gothic Church of the Virgin Mary from the 19th century and the Barbara Church constructed in 1902 by the Zubalashvili brothers in the honor of their mother Barbare Tymanishvili. The first mass was held there by Georgian Catholic Padre Anselmo Mgebrishvili.

We hired a not-very pleasant taxi driver to go to the Gonio-Apsaros fortress, a Roman fortification in Adjara (state), 9 miles south of Batumi, at the mouth of the Chorokhi river near the village of Sarpi. There are 22 towers and four entry points. Additionally, the grave of Saint Matthias (St. Matthew), one of the twelve apostles, is speculated to be in Gonio fortress. The fortress was constructed in the 1st and 2nd centuries and functioned as a citadel of the Roman, and afterwards Byzantian Empire. The walls are 16 feet high with the 18 towers at 23 feet high. We continued to Sarpi, at the border of Turkey and Georgia and saw a beautiful waterfall and a bridal party there and then again at the fortress. Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday are days for weddings. As we got out of the cab, he asked for more money. After putting up with the car’s gears not shifting, not a kind attitude and making it an uncomfortable memory, no way was he going to get another dime from us.

We wandered around town for our last hour and finally found a beauty salon for my haircut. We had a fun time with the three women and one man who tried ever so hard to understand what we wanted. In the end, my hair is shorter than I wanted but we had some laughs out of it. The man also led us to the watch maker so we replaced two batteries for a $1 each. Running to the ship, we made it with 10 minutes to spare - -please don’t follow our example in arriving so late back to the ship!! - and the sun was streaming down on us as we enjoyed a scenic sail-away from Batumi. They had a 20 piece band and the same children at the pier dancing and singing as we left.

Their government has three branches – legislative, executive and judicial. They grow citrus products, green and black tea. The schools were teaching English, German and Russian languages but after the war in 2008, they are slowly eliminating Russian from their course offerings. (As they are neighboring countries and considering the vast difference in size and natural resources, this is very interesting.)

Batumi is a seaside city on the Black Sea coast and capital of Adjara, a republic in southwest Georgia. Georgian independence from Russia was gained in 1991. It has a population of about 137,000. It is the last stop of the Trans-Caucasian Railway and the Baku oil pipeline. It is located some 12 miles from the Turkish border, in a subtropical zone, rich in citrus fruit and tea. Today it is the main port of Georgia with a capacity for 80,000-ton tankers. The oil originates from Azerbaijan and is shipped all over the world. It has significant rainfall throughout most of the year, making Batumi the wettest city in both Georgia and the entire Caucasus Region. The average annual temperature in Batumi is approximately 57 °F. The official language is Georgian which belongs to the Kartvelian language family, but it has no linguistic connection to Russian. Religion is Georgian Orthodox (84%), Muslim (10%) and Armenian Apostolic (4%). 
The average monthly income is only $90. The Currency is Lari at an exchange rate of 1.7 per US dollar.

Dinner was good; if it is not, it is your fault as you choose whatever you wish. The shows were great ---- the much anticipated Guest Talent Show and the Indonesian Crew Show. So much hard work goes in to both shows and there is amazing talent onboard. Both were wonderful but the crew show was especially good - -probably the best I have ever seen. They really seemed to want to please and it showed in every dance they performed.

“An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.” - G.K. Chesterton

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Sochi Russia

As I was typing away in the bridge lounge and had just signed off, a crew member came in and was getting ready for their Christian service. I talked to Elmer and went back to the room, Gene went back to meet Elmer and we both went back to join in their Sunday service. It was so nice! Elmer played the guitar and we had songbooks and Pastor Buzby preached. There were approx. 8 crew members and an officer and us. It was such a nice way to share the Gospel and made me realize how small the world really is. We all have the same concerns but their concerns involved the added dimension of being away from home for 8-10 months at a time.

April 19, 2010 – Monday – SOCHI, Russia – Site of the 2014 Winter Olympics
Russian Resort on the Black Sea coast – docked at Morskiy Vokzal (Sea Terminal), Port of Sochi

We were up early seeing the fog and dampness on the deck, but it cleared to an absolutely beautiful day! We were very impressed with this “sub-tropical seaside resort that will be hosting the Winter Olympics”, as our guide mentioned. She never thought their city with their climate would win the Winter Olympic bid.

You can only leave the ship with an organized tour or if you have an individual visa ($125 and need to be pre-purchased). We had a wonderful tour with Elena on a new bus. Her English was superb and her knowledge of history served to enhance the stories day’s sites.

We docked at the Maritime Passenger Terminal built in 1955, notable for its distinctive 260-foot high steeple tower and four statues symbolizing the cardinal points. An expansion calls for a new passenger terminal plus a 2 km long quay projecting out into the sea to accommodate two big cruise liners.

We went to the church Michael the Archangel, built in 1876, entering the richly decorated gold-leafed interior, we saw the nave filled with scaffolding as they attempted to clean the walls and pictures. Ornate. Gold. Impressive. Designed by Kaminsky and built to commemorate the end of the Caucasian War. There are no benches and in the center of the church – only the elderly and pregnant are allowed to rest on the few benches on the side walls. The service is in “old Slavonic” and needs to be translated to Russian for the congregation.
In the center of the compound, there were four fountains where you could fill your jugs with holy water. One other building was the Baptistry but we could not enter.

On we drove a short distance to the Park Hotel (a modern 4-star hotel) and walked along the seafront passing an old cannon and several monuments to Lenin, beautiful gardens and many benches, strolling under a rose arbor which must be beautiful in full bloom in May, and ending up in front of the Winter Theatre at Theatre Square. There are two theatres – one formal indoor theatre built in Greek style with sculptures of 3 Greek muses decorating the building and an outdoor theatre for the summer months (operating since 1937). On the pillars of the formal theatre, they put up a very large sheet to project movies for their Film Festival and it was here they celebrated when they were awarded the 2014 Olympics bid.

Between Matsestinskaya Valley and the Agura Canyon, we went to the massive green castle – Josef Stalin’s dacha (one of his summer homes), Zelanaya Roscha (The Green Grove), a sanatorium which is now a health-resort hotel. We toured his rooms where his wax figure sits at his desk beside his very narrow single bed. The ink set on his desk is a gift from China. He had a private movie theatre in his office (loved Charlie Chaplin) and an extra large sized billiard table in the office next to his. His cue stick was stuffed with lead as he was a small man and needed the extra weight to play. But his colleagues knew not to give in to him to let him win; he was afraid to fly and only traveled by train.

Pictures of the family surround him – married two times and all relatives had tragic endings to their lives (typhoid, executive in a concentration camp, suicide, alcoholic). He died in 1953. Svetlana Allilueva, his daughter born in 1926, now lives in Wisconsin in a nursing home, having defected from Russia to India and then to the USA and is not in contact with her children. She wrote a book “Twenty letters to a friend” with unusual, unique, warm and a bit sad memories of her Father.

The interior of the hotel has oak walls, doors, ceiling and flooring and the hotel is laid out in a courtyard with a green painted exterior. The hydrosulfide waters and fresh air here were supposed to be good for his ailments as he suffered from asthma

We continued about a ½ hour out of town climbing high to Akhun Mount (highest point in the central part of Sochi) via a path of switchback and steep roads. We were fortunate to have fairly clear skies so we could see the Caucasian mountains and the Black Sea. In the distance they pointed toward the general direction for the 2014 Olympic village in Krasnaya Polyana, at 1968 feet above sea level. We climbed 187 steps to the top for a fantastic view, which at times covered us in fog and then just as suddenly cleared for a great view of the valleys below.

Elena was the type of guide who asked us what we wanted to know about Russia. For their current travel they must obtain a visa for each country and be individually interviewed, fingerprinted and retina scanned. Some visas are only good for the length of the trip (10 days!!) and some are good for a year (USA and Canada) and cost approx. $100 a year. But you have to travel to Moscow for the interviews –airfare and hotel and meals at your own expense of course.

Russia has closed all casinos and is setting up four gambling “zones” in regions of the country. The magnolia tree is the symbol of the city. Population is approx. 400,000.

2014 Olympic Winter Games: Perhaps never before has an Olympic site started with so little. Basic infrastructure and an entirely new alpine ski center must be built from scratch. The Russian government is investing $12 billion in the city, with hopes that the Olympics will put Sochi on the map as a year-round tourist destination in the future. Desperately needed roads are under construction, as is a new airport terminal. An expensive, 30-mile railroad is planned from the beach to the new ski resort in the mountains. Two ports have to be constructed to bring in all the necessary building materials. With all of the construction for the games, I think that there may be delays in transportation to attractions outside of the town. Construction of 17 Olympic projects is already underway, another 100 projects are in the engineering phase and around 60 more Olympics- related projects are applying for expert evaluation. Approx. 1000 families will be relocated and over 2500 hectares of land will be bought out from private owners.

Customs and Superstition: Never give even number of flowers. Respond to good wishes by spitting three times over left shoulder and knocking on wood to keep good fortune.

“A well developed sense of humor is the pole that adds balance to your steps as you walk the tightrope of life.” - William A. Ward

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Lost in Asia

Saturday, April 17, 2010 – Lost in Asia…
Chilly and sunny with sprinkling rain

We were up and out by 8:30 after returning to the ship three times for a bigger coat, raincoat and more money! We ventured off the shipearly with friends on the local tram, a brand new system which works wonders through the terribly congested streets. We went to the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Saray) near Hagia Sophia church. After walking down 52 steps, you see this enormous underground cistern built by Byzantine Emperor Justinius (527- 565) that is held up by 336 columns, 27 feet high in 12 rows. Two Medusa heads used as the bases of two columns are masterpieces of sculpture in the Roman Period – one upside down and one sideways. The area was used as a set for the James Bond film “From Russia with Love”. There is a wooden walkway above 2 acres of 12-inch deep water for exploring the cistern. They also have a nice little café and a photo lab where you dress like a sultan for a professional photo. One couple were just about to have their photo taken when the wife said to her husband, “ Why should we pay for this photo when you dress like this all the time when you sing opera in local theatre?!!”.

We had a wonderful hour in the park between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia with colorful tulips bulbs, spouting fountains and locals and tourists wandering the area. The local shoe shine man was trying to drum up business. The flute player was hoping to give a short concert. The birds were chirping and flitting from one pink flowered bush to another. It was glorious.

Wandering down the hill, following the tracks of the streetcar we heard our names called and our friends were right behind us. They suggested we walk through the park under the Topkapi Palace and it was so pretty with purple and white pansies and tulips and sculptures and the Museum of Science and Technology. At the end of the park we came up on a simple hotel and toured it – for the budget traveler and used by an adventure company – found small shops with local handicrafts – found a money exchanger … it was all hustle and bustle in the city on a Saturday afternoon. In the Spice Market we purchased some spices and had fun with the vendor, walked in the underground tunnel under the street to find more vendors – bought some scarfs and a watch for US$3.50! and a large round sesame-crusted bread from a street vendor. Ran to get on a ferry going to Asia “the continent just across the Sea” and landed in Uskudar. This ferry was large with two decks, covered and uncovered, benches and FULL of people. The Asian side is more residential and people come over to the European side for shopping. Everyone had large bundles of purchases. We met a very nice couple, Turkish and Scottish marriage with a little daughter, and talked the entire way – about 20 minutes. The ferry ride cost a whole dollar.

Upon disembarking on the Asian side, we wandered around to see a beautiful cemetery where they place a head stone at each end of the gravestone and several mosques. Walking and walking…you really get a feel for the neighborhood when you walk it.

Then we “assumed” we were on the correct mode of transportation to take us over the bridge to the European side. We wanted to go to Karakoy. There were vehicles departing every few minutes to Kadakoy – as soon as the vehicle is full, off they go. Who notices one letter difference?????? Off we go. Kadakoy, here we come. I ended up speaking to three women from Dubai, US and Canada who were off to dine at a recommended restaurant so I am not paying attention to the route. Gabby, Gabby, they call me. Everyone else gets out of the van and Gene and I are the only ones left. He stops and says this is the end of the line. We look around and see no ship. Nothing is familiar. We babble on and on in English and he babbles back in Turkish and we can tell he is saying, “This is it, folks. Out you go.” So we get out and get enough information from a passerby to fine a pier with a sign for Karakoy. To absolutely every person we came in contact with requesting payment and pushing up forward, we explained and pointed to our map to make sure this ferry was headed to the correct continent and correct port. So after a ½ hour we docked in Karakoy, but not where we expected! The fish markets and the local vendors with household items were around us so we ended up buying a leather belt for $3.50 and an electrical converter for $4! Following the tram tracks we were soon at the ship with enough time to re-board to get the computer and head back to Starbucks for ½ hour online and board the ship before our sailaway.
One little letter seems to make all the difference in the world as to which continent you end up on. Hhhmmmm.

Just found a description for Kadikoy: On the Asian side where you will find plenty of nice and expensive residential areas near parks and tree-lined streets. A less chaotic atmosphere than the European side, plenty of nice cafes, shops, restaurants, bars, etc.

We enjoyed the sail through the Bosphorus Sea past all the stately summer homes, mosques, churches, bridges and mountains but it was getting foggy. The fog finally took over but we know we have another chance for our return trip from the Black Sea to the Bosphorus to the Mediterranean in about a week’s time.

Shirley Dominguez, from Uruguary, played the Paraguayan harp in “When the Harp Goes Latin” with an upbeat program.

Happy Birthday, Joyce!!!

“Nothing great has been, and nothing great can be accomplished without passion.” – G.W.F. Hegel

April 18, 2010 – At Sea in the Black Sea
This is the area of most interest to us when we decided to book this cruise. We have not been in the Black Sea and will visit Sochi Russia, Batumi Georgia and Trabzon and Sinop Turkey.

Slept late – moved the clocks ANOTHER hour ahead so we are eight hours ahead of Delaware – played crazy golf and ring toss to win some dollars – had lunch with friends – walked around the deck – worked – Production show “Let’s Dance”.

More gifts from Holland America! Tonight we celebrated the 137th birthday of the cruise line! Birthday cake, a commemorative ceramic mug, watercolor postcards of some of the fleet’s ships and a stuffed dolphin are some of the presents we have been given in the past few days!!

“It is impossible to defeat an ignorant man in an argument.” - William G. McADoo

Saturday, April 17, 2010

The city on two continents...

Friday, April 16, 2010 – ISTANBUL, Turkey
Turkish saying: One cup of coffee equals 40 years of friendship.

Lovely day in the only city on two continents! We arrived at sunrise to see the fog burn off the towers of the mosques in the distance. We were off the ship early for a bus tour of the city wall which is about 16 miles long with 46 towers. Much of it is in ruin from the medieval ages. We drove past the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Hippodrome and then spent some time learning how carpets are made and shopping in the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market. There are over 4,000 stalls in the Grand Bazaar and there are 16 entrances and exits – very necessary to keep a close eye on your guide and pay attention!!!! The Spice Market has fresh spices and dried teas of all flavors. And in the most perfect weather with yellow, orange, pink, maroon and lilac tulips in full bloom!!! It made for a beautiful surrounding of the historical sites.

Byzantine Hippodrome was the heart of Constantinople's political and sporting life, and the scene of games and riots through 500 years of Ottoman history. It's now a calm city park called the At Meydani (Horse Grounds). Yerebatan Saray, the Sunken Palace Cistern, is beneath the little park at the northern end of the Hippodrome. Above the hidden cistern is a stone tower that was once part of the city's system of aqueducts. Beside the stone tower is the Milion, the zero-mile-marker on the road called the Mese, the Roman road between Constantinople and Rome.

The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii), with its tiers of magnificent domes and six graceful minarets is one of the most striking and immediately distinguishable structures on the Istanbul’s skyline. Constructed as an Islamic rival to the Hagia Sophia in 1609, it is one of the finest examples of Ottoman architecture and is still used by hundreds of worshippers. The interior is splendidly decorated with thousands of blue and white Iznik tiles embellished with traditional Ottoman flower patterns, and it is this special feature that gives the mosque its name. Its mighty dome (141 feet high and 77 feet in diameter) and six minarets were built by Sultan Ahmet I in 1609 to 1616. The forecourt, with a beautiful fountain in the center, is surrounded by colonnades roofed with a series of small domes. The interior (235 feet by 210 feet) with soaring columns and 260 stained glass windows leaves a lasting impression of graceful accord and open space. Tourists must enter through the north gate and remove their shoes at the entrance (plastic bags for shoes are provided). Modest dress is required for both men and women; also women must cover their heads. Wraps are provided when deemed necessary by mosque officials.

The Ottoman Palace (Topkapi Sarayi) (pronounced "Tope-kahp-uh Sahr-rai-yuh"), built by Mehmet the Conqueror as a Sultan's Palace, consists of a sprawling collection of buildings arranged around several interconnecting courtyards. Located on one of the seven hills of Istanbul with uninterrupted views over the Bosphorus River and the Golden Horn, it was the seat of the Ottoman Empire for almost four centuries. Home to nearly 3,000 people, it served as royal residence, harem, state administration and military barracks. One of the most popular sections is the harem, once the quarters of about 300 women who were the sultans' wives and concubines, and their children.

Egyptian Bazaar (or Spice Market, Misir Çarsisi, built 1664) is filled with the fragrance of the exotic East. Spices, dried fruits, nuts and seeds, lokum (Turkish Delight) and other edibles fill most of the shops, though jewelry and other high-margin goods have begun to move in.

Covered Bazaar (Kapali Çarsi) is the oldest and biggest enclosed bazaar in the world. Also known as the Grand Bazaar, it is one of the most enticing and mesmerizing attractions in Istanbul. It is a whole quarter on its own, surrounded by a wall and entered through eleven gates. Consisting of a vast labyrinth of 65 twisting streets crammed with more than 4,000 shops, teahouses, hamams (Turkish baths), mosques, storehouses and fountains. It is a fascinating experience to wander around the alleyways, looking and enjoying, or bargaining and purchasing. You can find almost anything, from meerschaum pipes, carpets and jewellery, to Turkish Delight, textiles, spices, clothing and hand-painted ceramics. Protracted bargaining over a cup of tea is an important institution. Built during the rule of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in 1461, the bazaar grew by covering an increasingly large area of shops and streets with roofs, arches and domes. It became the centre of trading during the Ottoman period. Caravans of silk traders traditionally stayed here and rested their camels while selling their merchandise, and many of these ‘hans’ or caravanserais still exist as storehouses today.

We went back to the ship for a quick lunch and then found the magnificent Starbucks for free WIFI. Work and phone calls. Thank goodness for Starbucks!
Still pleasant outside as we look out the window of the café and enjoy the view of the passersby.

After a dinner in the buffet, we took a walk in the city through a fascinating area of cafes. Young people were lounging on bean bag chairs, smoking shishas (not sure how to spell that) of and playing backgammon or chess, watching TV, on the computer or just hanging out. It was a very nice atmosphere and they sold various flavors of apple, orange, cappuccino or tea for the shishas. And the lights on the many mosques were so beautiful! We were so glad we went out for the late night walk. One bridge changes color every ten minutes - blue, red, green…

“The only real elegance is in the mind; it you’ve got that, the rest really comes from it.” - Diana Vreeland

Friday, April 16, 2010

Driving around the Peloponnese and a relaxing sea day...

April 14, 2010- Katakolon, Greece – OLYMPIA for the site of the first Olympics
Gorgeous day! Spectacular blue sky and low white clouds. Sunny and warm and no humidity – no sweating all day! We just enjoyed the sunshine and scenic mountains and ocean as we drove along the coastline.

We docked in Katakolon, which is a port city on the western Peloponnesus. There were two other ships in the port – which was a surprise considering the size of the port and the quaint village at the port. ALL the shops were there strictly for the ships.

Most of the ship’s passengers were on tours to Olympic, the site of the first Olympic games but we toured there on a previous trip. The games were held in honor of Zeus, chief deity of the Pantheon, ruler and protector of both gods and men. They were established when Hercules decreed that the men of Greece would meet in Olympia every four years to compete in a series of athletic events to commemorate his victory. Nobility, merchants, ambassadors, and spectators would congregate along with the athletes. The games were so sacred that all hostilities, including war, were suspended for the duration of the games. From 776 BC to 393 AD, the games were held every four years at the time of the full moon in August or September. They first began with a simple footrace and a few wrestling matches but gradually expanded into a five-day extravaganza. The winners, crowned with wreaths of olives and the assurance of immortality, were hailed as heroes. The 293rd Olympiad was the last one held in Olympia. The Byzantine Emperor, Theodosius I, suspended the games in an effort to curtail pagan activities and his successor, Theodosius II, ordered the destruction of the temples.
The games were revived in 1896 by French historian Pier de Coubertin. To oversee, the games the International Olympic Academy was founded in 1961 and is based in Olympia.

Avis and a local rental agency had cars waiting so there were five of us in a rental car and off we drove to the south. Our goal had been to visit Mavromati/Ancient Messini (where the God Zeus was born) near Kalamata (where the olives come from) but after talking to the Avis office, we knew this was not realistic – too far on windy, narrow roads.

We headed south and stopped wherever we felt like stopping. A small sign marked a beach – we turned off there. We drove a few miles through fields of crops and found a quaint village, rather sad-looking, at the end of the road. The sand was dark but not from moisture. There was a very large 2-story home at the water’s edge which was being destroyed by the sea - the steps were separated from the 2nd floor, the side of the house facing the sea was gone…we all thought of the family who had once occupied the home and where they were now. There was a lot of stray driftwood and some trash scattered along the beach – not a pretty beach for swimming or walking. But with the crashing waves from the green/blue sea it was not terrible either.

We continued south to the small village of Zaharo and stopped to explore the supermarket and tried to enter the Greek Orthodox church (we never got in to a single church the entire day and I remember that from last time, when we were out in the country). I bought some pink pepper and they had green, white and black pepper. In the freezer section you could also buy the whole octopus and squid (you can imagine the packaging for those delicacies!).

On we ventured and stopped at a friendly gas station for a rest stop. We tried to talk to them and we all laughed a lot. The back of the station had a gorgeous view of a valley that led out to the sea. Driving further south to Kiparissi and then continuing to find the elusive “Palace of Nestor”, we tried to question the locals but to no avail. Our pronunciation and their understanding did not work. We knew this was not a common area for tourists so that made it all the more interesting to us.

But the olive fields were colorful on the narrow roads. The rugged, arid mountains in front of us were majestic. The sea and large island on the side of the road were scenic even if we never did find the palace! In the end, it turned out to be a nice joke for the day. We would look for the brown archeological signs but when we found them there was not a ruin in sight!

We headed north again back to the port and had some difficulty finding the ship. Once again, slightly stressful but we arrived at 4PM for a 4:30 all-aboard time.

Casual dinner and the entertainment was a revue show of all the entertainment onboard. The Prinsendam Orchestra, the Adagio strings, the dance band Counterpoint and Buddy at the piano. Laundry and typing…

It’s a Fact: Olympic events began small and grew over the years. By the 5th century BC, the religious festival was a 5-day program. Married women who tried to watch the games risked execution.

“Happiness is not so much in having, as sharing. We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give.” – Norman MacEwan

Thursday, April 15, 2010 – At sea
Slept until 9 and it was wonderful. Meeting at 10, lunch with friends at 12:30, took a nap in the sun in the late afternoon --- finally, a day where I felt I had some control.

Formal night and we had Jessika join us, an officer from the Shore Excursion Staff. We had a nice meal and commented again on how friendly and caring the staff are toward everyone. This is one of the nicest crews; everyone is very genuine and caring and seem to really enjoy their job.

Missed: Indonesian Tea ceremony (will definitely do that in the near future), Culinary Arts Cooking Class with Guest Chef Marisol Simon, On Deck for the Cure Walk (five laps around the deck), Prom Night, Learn Basic Turkish, Mah Jongg, Seahorse Racing…

“Three be the things I shall never attain: Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.” - Dorothy Parker

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Rome, Civitavecchia and cruising past Stromboli...

Monday, April 12, 2010 – ROME
Cloudy and temperate
We docked early and many were off the ship by 7AM for a long 12-hour day tour in the Eternal City. I have been very fortunate to have now been here three times in the last year so we took a later train for 9 euros round trip and arrived in Rome around 11:00. We walked down the Via Cavour and had a fun time watching an elderly man bounce a ball on top of his head while cars were waiting for the red light to turn green! That is being industrious…for a person of any age!

Found the post office and decided NOT to wait in their incredibly long line for 2 stamps so we found a tabacchi and bought the stamps along the street. The Colosseum was in front of us as we enjoyed our picnic. The Colosseum still remains the greatest architectural legacy from ancient Rome. Vespasian ordered the construction of the elliptical bowl in AD 72. At its peak, it could seat 50,000. The Vestal Virgins from the temple screamed for blood, as exotic animals were shipped in from the far corners of the Empire to satisfy jaded tastes (lion vs bear, two humans vs hippopotamus). Years later it was struck by an earthquake, used as a quarry and one one side part of the original four tiers remain. Work completed in 2002 reinforced the structure and cleaned off a layer of grime. We walked around and enjoyed seeing the “gladiators” in costume and took the subway back to Termini for the return train ride. This time we were on an inter-city train with special seats for first class and we really enjoyed the ride.

Walking back through Civitavecchia (chi-vi-ta-vek-ia) we met friends who told us about free WIFI at Subway and the photo shop. Racing back to the ship via port bus we now had to go through two screening areas before boarding the ship to get the computer and files but we managed to get back on the bus to the town. Finding Subway, setting everything up and then to find out that the battery was dead!!! Oh woe is us. Bummer. Phones calls and work to be done and no computer. Gene went out to sort out a solution and I waited. Then I met a friend who said he had met Gene and sent Gene back to the ship to get their computer that we could use. I went up the street to the Fuji store to have prints made from some photos and they did a great job!! I bought a mint gelato/ice cream to soothe my soul for my massive mistake, but also took it as a sign that perhaps I was trying to do too much and needed some rest.
So the computer appeared, we connected for about ½ hour and then re-boarded the bus to the ship and boarded … too late for dinner at our table but had a very nice dinner with friends in the buffet.

Marty Brill was the comedian and he was great. He wrote for Mash, Mary Tyler Moore, Mork and Mindy, Merv Griffin…all the good old ones. We enjoyed his humorous outlook on life.

“Most of the important things in the world have been accomplished by people who have kept on trying when there seemed to be no hope at all.” - Dale Carnegie

April 13, 2010 – AT SEA as we sailed through the Straits of Messina and the island of Stromboli
We moved our clock ahead again an hour so we are now seven hours ahead of Delaware.

Up very late, no breakfast, and ran out for the very close viewing of the island of Stromboli, an active volcano. We could very clearly see the black dried lava flow and steep face of the island. There are two very tiny villages filled with white houses at the water’s edge and a lone craggy rock with the light house w a y up there at the top of the rock. At one point, the sun was shining down so brilliantly exactly at the mouth of the volcano with fog on the side of the island….wow!

Did computer work, tried to clean up papers, talked and talked….I do enjoy walking around and meeting with friends and chatting so you can spend an entire afternoon just roaming and talking….we sailed through the Straits of Messina (between the continent of Europe/country of Italy and the island of Sicily) and the seas were so rough we could not even take on a pilot! But we were fine. We had a great narrative as we sailed through but had a cloud-covered view of Mt. Etna.

Dinner and fun and a production show called “On the Continent” and then computer work and getting ready for our first port call in Greece tomorrow.

Missed today: the movie “2012”, Learning Turkish, Fitnes Class, Swimming the Straits of Messina (in the pool), Guest Chef Marisol Simon in the Culinary Arts Exhibition Center…no time to rest.

“If I were two-faced, would I be wearing this one?” - Abraham Lincoln

Monday, April 12, 2010

Livorno - PISA Italy

Livorno was a major trading power in the 17th century. Venice and Genoa later formed an alliance to destroy much of the city’s trade.

Up at 5AM. Gray and cold outside. Really cold. 40-something. Quite a shock. Ate and ran out to the pier in Livorno to arrange transportation for a group of 10 to Lucca, Italy. We ended up with a taxi driver for 8 of them at 30 euros each with a stop in Pisa along the way and then some free hours in Lucca and four others decided to rent a car. Gene and I hopped on the complimentary city shuttle to the town of Livorno and arrived there before the churches were open (on a Sunday!) and before the shops opened. Just a very few people were roaming the streets but the wind was blowing fiercely. We met a very nice Chinese woman (of course her shop was open!) and bought a few items and had some laughs. The cathedral was open by now so we went in to look around and came out into a downpour of cold rain. Buckets of rain. And wind. Really cold wind.

We waited for our return shuttle bus and ran back onboard our “home” and up to a hot breakfast of fresh waffles (our first taste since coming onboard!) and hot drinks.

Did a load of laundry and it was like a local Laundromat. You know, sometimes those days were not so bad. People took time to socialize and get to know each other. Not such a bad thing, hey??

I had a quick salad and then met my group inside the ship for a ship sponsored afternoon shore excursion to Pisa – the leaning tower and the cathedral. There were 31 on my bus and since we all had our umbrellas in hand, the sun came out! It was fantastic. There was fresh snow on the mountain tops where they never have snow. And the skies cleared up nicely as we drove the short distance to Pisa. Stefania was our tour guide, until we met up with Antonio, who spoke to us through the VOX headphones so you could wander around on your own and still hear the history and sites around you.

Tourist markets lined the streets in the walled city of Pisa, just 15 miles northeast of Livorno. It was a Roman naval base and the Americans still have a base close by. Galileo Galilei taught at the university and Percy and Mary Shelley lived in Pisa. Engineers race to save the Leaning Tower but they will never correct the leaning – not when you have 5000 tourists a day pumping money into your economy. Lead weights at the base balance the heavy mass; there is little danger of collapse.

We toured the Cathedral where a beautiful lamp created by Galileo hangs, saw finely etched marble work, Murano glass and exquisite paintings on the ceilings and walls…It is overwhelming in detail and size.

Back to the ship by 5:15 and we decided on the Lido buffet for dinner. All three meals were eaten up there today…and the crew are so very friendly and helpful. We have a wonderful time with them, smiling and laughing and learning out about their families. Today I bought a magnet for one nice young man, Mr. Bagus, who collects them. We enjoy our friendships with them just as much as with the passengers. What fun it is to see them again in a new ship on a later sailing!

Luka Burrage, an English juggler for over 17 years, was the entertainer. He has broken three juggling world records and won the int’l Juggler’s Association People’s Choice award in 2004.

Sunday evening worship for the Christian Philippinos is so nice to hear. They worship in the Bridge Room, which has no doors, so as you walk around the ship about 11:30 PM you can hear the beautiful singing.

This is the heartland of Italy – Tuscany. Walled-in towns with festoons of vines and olive trees represent the most archetypal image of the country. We are docked in the Ligurian Sea and this region is now an important seaport dealing mainly with timber, marble, alabaster and craft work.



“Pinocchio” is an Italian phrase that means “pine eye”.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

St. Tropez France -- ooh la la....

Absolutely gorgeous day with the weather and the sights. Clear skies, gentle breeze and no clouds as we visited this glitzy beach resort for the “beautiful” people. Made famous by Bridget Bardot’s role in the movie “And God Created Woman”, the city offers an eclectic atmosphere that blends in with the glamorous yachts and sailboats.

We tendered in to the pier Capitainerie in the center of town and arrived in the marina with an old watchtower standing guard. The buildings Off we went through the cobblestone streets to the Saturday market at Place des Lices, along with about 500 other people! There were over 100 stalls with food, crafts, fresh cheeses, olive oil, wine, clothing (skimpy sexy bathing suits were 50 euros/$70 at the market!), lavender, leather goods, plants, jewelry, spices, HUGE dishes of paella (6 feet across!) with gigantic shrimp (about 8” long) and other delicacies ready for a picnic.

On the climb to the Citadel, which has been there for over 400 years, we met a nice gentleman painting a watercolor of the hill we had just climbed. His daughter married an American and she lives in Savannah so he visits regularly to paint. We visited the Hermitage Hotel with nice views of the town and had a delicious picnic lunch overlooking the town with a gentle breeze blowing and the shriek of peacocks in the background. The Citadel was begun in 1602 and was used until 1873. It sits majestically over the Gulf of St. Tropez and the Massif des Maures sea with its six-cornered thick walls. We climbed the worn stone steps in the keep for spectacular views of the town and sea.

Down the hill to the cemetery, Pointe du Cimetiere, with an impressive view of the sea as you wandered around the small streets. We were so surprised at the size and grandeur of the tombs. They were all raised above ground, some were over four-feet high and they place beautiful ceramics of colorful flowers on the tombs. They will always look nice! There were also photos of the person and some tombs had standing marble slabs which appeared to be a message to the deceased. They were majestic. We have to google Edouard Barclayas his tomb was a modern display of 3 feet record albums with people’s names engraved on the records – one of which was Bridget Bardot.

We continued downhill to town and wandered the narrow cobblestone streets past the many expensive boutiques (you name a top designer/jeweler and they were there). Meandered onto the wharf, past the massive yachts and open-air restaurants and I could just imagine the scene on a hot summer night.

Tendered back to the ship, worked on the computer to sort out the problems I had last night, called home, dressed for formal night in 25 minutes (shower and all!) and celebrated the 46th wedding anniversary of our tablemates with Lucy, the Guest Relations Manager dining with us – so wine and drinks were included with our dinner! It was “Speakeasy” night so we enjoyed the crew in their gangster costumes with tilted hats. I think they really enjoyed dressing like a gangster movie star and had a lot of fun.
Fantastic entertainment with the Unexpected Boys, who do a rendition of the Jersey Boys and planned tomorrow’s outing.

These words come to mind after our day here…
- Dogs (every other person seemed to own a dog and was holding it)
- Topless (many beaches are either topless or allow nude bathing) “St. Tropez women popularized topless bathing when they adopted soda bottle caps as protection from the sun and indecency laws.”
- Men and Women wearing the color black
- Yachts (registered all over the world)
- Women wearing boots and high heels
- Sunshine
- Watercolor artists painting at the wharf
- Hedonistic jet-set destination which you must see once in your life
www.ot-saint-tropez.com


“If you come to a fork in the road, take it.” - Yogi Beara

St. Tropez France -- ooh la la....

Absolutely gorgeous day with the weather and the sights. Clear skies, gentle breeze and no clouds as we visited this glitzy beach resort for the “beautiful” people. Made famous by Bridget Bardot’s role in the movie “And God Created Woman”, the city offers an eclectic atmosphere that blends in with the glamorous yachts and sailboats.

We tendered in to the pier Capitainerie in the center of town and arrived in the marina with an old watchtower standing guard. The buildings Off we went through the cobblestone streets to the Saturday market at Place des Lices, along with about 500 other people! There were over 100 stalls with food, crafts, fresh cheeses, olive oil, wine, clothing (skimpy sexy bathing suits were 50 euros/$70 at the market!), lavender, leather goods, plants, jewelry, spices, HUGE dishes of paella (6 feet across!) with gigantic shrimp (about 8” long) and other delicacies ready for a picnic.

On the climb to the Citadel, which has been there for over 400 years, we met a nice gentleman painting a watercolor of the hill we had just climbed. His daughter married an American and she lives in Savannah so he visits regularly to paint. We visited the Hermitage Hotel with nice views of the town and had a delicious picnic lunch overlooking the town with a gentle breeze blowing and the shriek of peacocks in the background. The Citadel was begun in 1602 and was used until 1873. It sits majestically over the Gulf of St. Tropez and the Massif des Maures sea with its six-cornered thick walls. We climbed the worn stone steps in the keep for spectacular views of the town and sea.

Down the hill to the cemetery, Pointe du Cimetiere, with an impressive view of the sea as you wandered around the small streets. We were so surprised at the size and grandeur of the tombs. They were all raised above ground, some were over four-feet high and they place beautiful ceramics of colorful flowers on the tombs. They will always look nice! There were also photos of the person and some tombs had standing marble slabs which appeared to be a message to the deceased. They were majestic. We have to google Edouard Barclayas his tomb was a modern display of 3 feet record albums with people’s names engraved on the records – one of which was Bridget Bardot.

We continued downhill to town and wandered the narrow cobblestone streets past the many expensive boutiques (you name a top designer/jeweler and they were there). Meandered onto the wharf, past the massive yachts and open-air restaurants and I could just imagine the scene on a hot summer night.

Tendered back to the ship, worked on the computer to sort out the problems I had last night, called home, dressed for formal night in 25 minutes (shower and all!) and celebrated the 46th wedding anniversary of our tablemates with Lucy, the Guest Relations Manager dining with us – so wine and drinks were included with our dinner! It was “Speakeasy” night so we enjoyed the crew in their gangster costumes with tilted hats. I think they really enjoyed dressing like a gangster movie star and had a lot of fun.
Fantastic entertainment with the Unexpected Boys, who do a rendition of the Jersey Boys and planned tomorrow’s outing.

These words come to mind after our day here…
- Dogs (every other person seemed to own a dog and was holding it)
- Topless (many beaches are either topless or allow nude bathing) “St. Tropez women popularized topless bathing when they adopted soda bottle caps as protection from the sun and indecency laws.”
- Men and Women wearing the color black
- Yachts (registered all over the world)
- Women wearing boots and high heels
- Sunshine
- Watercolor artists painting at the wharf
- Hedonistic jet-set destination which you must see once in your life
www.ot-saint-tropez.com


“If you come to a fork in the road, take it.” - Yogi Beara

Friday, April 9, 2010

2 days in Barcelona...

Thursday, April 8, 2010 – BARCELONA 1st day of 2
ENSEMBLE EXPERIENCE!
We had 25 passengers with us, all on time, for a 9:00 departure from the pier. We had a great day – even with cool-ish weather. The two guides for our 25 passengers were very easy to understand and very knowledgeable. We had a city tour showing the marina and Olympic area, the Gaudi-designed buildings with wavy fronts and then stopped at La Sagrada Familia church. The church was begun by Antonio Gaudi and in the late 1800s and is still not finished! Gaudi was an architect ahead of his time, using recycled material long before it was a popular idea. His designs combine stone, iron and ceramics in a rather commanding and certainly irreverent fashion.

Born in 1852, his career got the boost it needed when he met Count Eusebio Guell, the heir to a textiles fortune, who would become his benefactor for over 30 years. Gaudi built homes with wavy fronts and roofs that look like icing is dripping down a cake.

La Sagrada Familia cathedral, the unfinished church by Gaudi, is Barcelona’s most unforgettable landmark. It is a magical mid-city massif of needles and peaks left by eons of wind erosion and fungal exuberance. It is still under construction and there is now talk of completion with plans to finish it by 2026, which would be the 100th year anniversary of Gaudi’s death. To be completed are the towers, the main façade and the covered apse.

We drove over to the Cathedral, which was built between 1298 and 1450. Its highlights are the beautifully carved choir stalls, Santa Eulalia’s tomb in the crypt and the battle-marked crucifix from Don Juan’s galley in the Lepanto Chapel and the cloisters.

We were in the Gothic Quarter with narrow cobblestone streets so we wandered around the curvy streets, eventually ending up at The Ramblas, the walking street to the port. There are vendors and cafes scattered along the cobblestone route and many buskers -- musicians and actors in very colorful costumes “begging” as they perform.

Had a fabulous tapas lunch at “Lonja de Tapas” with at least 12 courses! Salad, olives, smoked salmon, shrimp, calamari, cod, scallops, asparagus, vegetables…and we finished with a brownie, cookie and chocolate ice cream on top! Plus all the beer and wine you want. Ensemble does a GREAT job on their Ensemble Experiences.

Back to the ship and collapsed. But not for long…off we went on the free shuttle bus provided by Holland America and we found a hotel to use our computer and Skype for phone calls. What a deal. But it takes time!!! And a good battery! Both of which are not available….!!
So back to the ship for dinner and then back to the hotel to work again after the battery had charged again and back to the ship for the flamenco dancing. I want to tell you it was great – a school of dancers came to perform – but I would not know. The bus was stopped dead in traffic due to trucks loading cargo onto a ferry boat. UGGH. So we missed the show – we entered the theatre just as they opened the doors for people to exit.


They cleaned the carpet in our stateroom! First time we had been informed that this goes on. And they did the annual fitness test of the ship so they forced it to “list” to prove the balance. All during our sleeping hours of midnight to 5AM and we felt no motion whatsoever…but they did not tell us if we passed the test or not!!


“Life is a promise; fulfill it.” - Mother Teresa

Friday, April 9, 2010 – BARCELONA – 2nd day – Yeah!!
What a fabulous day!! Great weather. Perfect spring day with blue skies, cool yet warm with a nice sun shining of your back….great day. Back to the hotel to work until the computer died again and then up the Rambla to look around at the Boqueria market. So many varieties of fresh meats, fishes, vegetables…loved it. I love markets. You get such a feel for the local culture – their local eating and dining habits.

Back to the ship – took a nap on the deck for a ½ hour and then we sailed. And we don’t toot the horn when we leave! I miss that from the Queen Victoria. Had wonderful views of Barcelona basking in the sun as we sailed out of the dock. There were five other ships in today so the roads were much more congested.

Dinner, computer, celloist, computer, computer, phone calls….BED.

“Whatever you do, do it with your entire being. Put your heart and soul into it.” - J Kleykamp

Photos from Ibiza



Salt field and church in Ibiza, Spain

St. Barts photos




From our lovely day in St. Barts.

birthday cake and crossing in the Atlantic




Luisa's birthday cake at sea!

And crossing the middle of the Atlantic with King Neptune

Ibiza Spain



Wednesday, April 7, 2010 – IBIZA Spain, part of the Balearic Islands
There are four large islands off the coast of southern Spain – Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza and Formentera. With a year-round agreeable climate, they are a well-known vacation spot for many Europeans – especially the Germans and English.

Ibiza has a harsh, rocky landscape which receives little rainfall. There are over 50 beautiful beaches, the small villages offer a maze of stone streets making for great exploring and have trendy shops and cafes. The old walled town of D’alta Vila was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999 and is perched high on a hilltop. Its walls were constructed during the 16th century by Felipe II to protect against the French and Turkish invasion.

The day was cloudy and sunny and a nice 68 degrees. The ship supplied a shuttle to the town centre and we quickly rented an Avis rental car for 40 euros for the day. A diesel IBIZA car (how appropriate) and it turned out we did not have to even put any gasoline in as the tank never went down! We covered only 60 miles during the day and saw spectacular scenery.

Together with a Canadian couple from Manitoba, we headed north out of town towards Santa Eulailia and to the Hippy Market in a small village near the east coast. Gene bought me a beautiful grey and white pearl necklace – the pearls are very large and from Ibiza. The market was from the ‘60s era with all kinds of tie-died articles and handicrafts.

We continued up the coast to Cala San Vicente and then headed in land, driving many switchback roads and through the mountains seeing sheep and flowers in bloom. Whitewashed houses dotted the landscape and terraced fields. We stopped at a few churches, but again, they close for the afternoon siesta. Went to Bafalia and found a watchtower/cylindrical fortress in the field, which was built to defend against the Turks. Continued westward through the switchback roads to Sant Miguel and to a lovely church and then drove due south to Eivissa (Ibiza) and then continued south to the Salt fields. Acres and acres of water and salt and we drove between the salt fields. A bull dozer was loading trucks with the dried salt to take to the ships in the port. Another road led us to a beautiful beige soft sand beach – there was a cute Picasso-esqe pink picture of bathing beauties on a mural by the sea. Another watchtover was at the most southern tip of the island and then we found the port and ships waiting to be loaded with salt.

Found our way back in to town and then to the McDonald’s for free WIFI (where a lot of crew were already on their computers) and took the last shuttle bus back to the ship. We sailed at 4:30 and we enjoyed a nice dinner – duck was my choice tonight.

Jeff Stevenson will be the entertainer. A very good English comedian who shared his experiences of trying to meet our ship! He left the UK on Saturday and ended up in Tangiers for 3 nights (which was way too long for him) and then we told the ship could not make it to port so they told him to fly to the wrong island!! So he went to Formentera and then was told to return to Ibiza! So instead of being onboard for 3 nights, he was on for one night and will disembark tomorrow in Barcelona.

Worked on getting the Ensemble Experience tour organized for tomorrow and off to bed. Wind is at 25+ mph which is absolutely nothing compared to our last gale winds.

“I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.” - George Bernard Shaw