Thursday, February 26, 2009

Rabaul, Papua New Guinea

Thursday, February 26, 2009 – RABAUL, Papua New Guinea
Volcanic-ash cloudy! HUMID.
US$1 = 2.73 Kina

Rabaul is a township in East New Britain province, and was the provincial capital and most important settlement until it was destroyed in 1994 by falling ash of a volcanic eruption. The capital was then moved to Kokopo, about 12 miles away. Rabaul is continually threatened by volcanic activity due to being built on the edge of the Rabaul caldera, a flooded caldera of a large volcano. It was the headquarters of German New Guinea until captured by the British Commonwealth during WWI, when it became the capital of the Australian mandated Territory of New Guinea until 1937. During WWII, it was captured by the Japanese in 1942 and was the main base of Japanese military and naval activity in the South Pacific. The area is popular for scuba diving and snorkeling. The Tolais are the native people in this region and in 1975, the country became independent. There are approx. 16,000 citizens living in Rabaul and Kokopo and 185,000 in the East New Britain province. Out of the 860 languages spoken in the country, 77 languages are in this province and eight are spoken where we toured today.

Nearly the entire town was buried when Vulcan and Turvur-vur volcanoes erupted on September 19, 1994. What was once the city center is now a ghost town. Roofs and rubble still poke through the ash and mud in eerie testament to the event. The sight is striking. I will never forget it. Never have I seen such damage and devastation and what we saw today is over 15 years since the volcano erupted. The ash is the most destructive element in a volcanic event.

FABULOUS day -- all I could have asked for and more. We were up at 6 to see the volcanoes as we headed from Blanche Bay into Simpson Harbor and past the Beehives (islands). Turvur-vur is very active and was spewing forth all kinds of smoke all day long. The buried hillside neighborhood that frames the port was once home to the elite German ex-pat community. This was a maiden port of call and the men gave a wonderful dance program with drums and sticks, in full costume. Fascinating!

We then had a private welcome ceremony by the men and boarded the only air-conditioned tour bus!! Yes! Thank you so much! Kevin was our driver and Marastella was the guide. We headed up to the Volcanological Observatory, with a great view down to the ship and harbor, and passed many war tunnels, dug into the side of the mountain. We drove through Rabaul (pronounced Rah-baal) and over very bumpy roads to the Japanese Barge Tunnel. Much of the road system has been washed out or ruined with deep ravines at the edge of the road. The group were all great troopers as we bounced along!

The Japanese Barge Tunnel houses approx. five old barges. They were hauled up to a deep and large tunnel and stored there. They are decrepit and decayed and intriguing! We climbed the steps to view them from the top. Several vendors were outside and we learned the meaning of shell money. The Tolai make different size necklaces of very small cowrie shells, and depending on the purchase, a different size split cane necklace of shells is used to pay – such as for a daughter to be wed!

We drove past a British Floating Crane Wreck, still in the water, and another 12 miles (but it seemed like 30 with the bumps and detours from right lane to left lane – although there are no lane markers!) into Kokopo. We walked around the War Relics Museum with WWII artifacts, including a Japanese half-track (my Father was in the American version) and an American jeep. They also had a house of traditional masks (as tall as I am!) and crocodiles in a pen.

Down the road was the very crowded Kokopo local market with fresh fish and fruit. It is open Monday- Saturday. We drove past several schools and saw students in their uniforms. Education is paid by the parents so some children are not educated. They do learn English and are not required to go to school after age 15.

Kokopo was just a small town when the eruption that buried Rabaul in 1994 forced the government offices to be relocated. It is now the official capital. We toured the Museum and Cultural Center of East New Britain with historic displays and photographs of the region as well as many antique artifacts from the war, including the nose section of an American B-17. We stopped at the Red Rooster for some fast food but they would not accept dollars! We stopped for a few sodas and snacks and kept going.

Over 1000 Allied solders are buried at Bita Paka Memorial Cemetery, southeast of Kokopo – Indians, Australians, Pakistani, Fijians and New Guineans. It was a peaceful and colorful cemetery.

We drove back on the same road with the same bumps – we all figured we lost a few pounds, what with the humidity and road conditions! We definitely lost a tire from under the car! I saw it behind the car after we had dived into a ravine and I hit the roof of the car! We continued past the cocoa and coconut trees, fishing wharfs, vendors with hot food, people waiting for the next open-aired truck which is their local bus and huge containers of coconut oil. We know the containers to be used for oil/petroleum but they use them for coconut oil. There were also many wooden churches of great size throughout the province.

In to Rabaul, we drove through the volcanic-ravaged streets to the New Britain Club, which houses the Historical Museum and is next to Admiral Yamamoto’s Bunker and headquarters. The history of the war was displayed on panels, as well as a miniature Japanese land mine. Ash covers the ground. There are no longer any streets. You drive through the ash and is quite solid, not like sand that gives way. But the ash is about three feet high!! And now the trees are starting to grow through it! It is eerie and dark. I felt like I was on the set of a horror film.

The Rabaul Volcanic Hot Springs were out on the most barren land I have ever seen, near the base of the erupting volcano. We were counted as we entered that area as the landowners receive a fee for each trespasser. We could HEAR the volcano grumbling as it spew huge clouds of black and white smoke. We could even see hot springs at the base of the volcano. And there were families selling wares and blond-haired dark skinned children running around playing in the deep ravines of ash. Surreal. And how did these children end up with blond hair??

Our last stop was at the wreck of a Japanese plane. It was in the center of a very dense section of dead palm trees, still standing but dead, in ash (soil). And surrounding the plane were the Matupit people. They live a very simple life and were selling their wares. The boys (we did not see any girls) were running around us, seemingly very excited to see us. And they were not asking for money. They wanted you to buy their goods. It was a sight I will never ever forget. We needed much more time there.

But Kevin drove hurriedly back to the ship as we had felt a few rain drops. When it rains, it means the roads of ash would be washed away and the edges of the road would disappear. We could be there for a very long while if we did hurry out!

Returning to the ship, Mr. Melly Paivu met our van to thank us for our business. Paivu Tours – I would recommend them highly for this region. He asked to be photographed with us and had other employees with him who all asked to shake our hand and thank us for coming.

Quite a thought process I had as I was walking toward this luxury megaship with my back to this town ravaged by ash. We had a fabulous insight into their culture and province today.

Upon boarding the ship, the Rabaul post office was still onboard! We managed to post a few postcards at a huge price each ($2 per postcard just for stamps!!) and settled back into our comfortable cocoon as we headed to the Lido buffet.

I was mesmerized by the volcano (and the rain did come!) as we sailed away. If only they had stopped playing the “Sail Away” party music above us on the open deck, we might have again heard the sounds of the volcano and perhaps understood what the future holds….

Shower, computer work, snack and entertainment tonight is pianist, Caroline Dennis, and Vocalist, Gary Williams.


A dear friend just sent me this card:
“For a long time it seemed to me that life was about to begin – real life. But there was always some obstacle in the way, something to be gotten through first, some unfinished business, time still to be served, a debt to paid. At last it dawned on me that these obstacles were my life. This perspective has helped me to see this is no way to happiness. Happiness is the way. So treasure every moment you have and remember that time waits for no one.”

February 25 - at sea

Wednesday, February 25, 2009 – at sea
Humid, bright and sunny – we transited the Jomard Channel through the group of islands known as the Luisiade (!!!) Archipelago and began our passage across the Solomon Sea. Tonight the depth of the water will be over 5 miles deep!!

Breakfast in the room and off to “Captain James Cook: The Man and the Myth” lecture with Maritime Historian and Pilot, Captain John Foley. They are held in the Royal Court Theatre and are very well attended. Captain Cook produced charts which were used until the 20th century – not bad when you consider his journeys were from 1768-71, 1772-75 and 1776-80! He revolutionized the standards for hygiene onboard ships, surveying techniques and wrote papers on solar eclipses. He was a calm and humane man whom many state was born in the wrong century. Born in 1728, at age 18 he was apprenticed to a Quaker ship owner in England. At age 27, he commanded his first ship but he wanted to join the Royal Navy. They accepted him as an “Able Seaman” even though his qualifications were far above that level. He married Elizabeth Batts in 1762 and they had six children but none survived their parents, how very sad. His first ship, the HMS Endeavor, was 550 tons (ours is 90,000!), with a crew of 94 and 22 guns. There was enough food for six months onboard, including 5000 liters of beers, 6400 liters of liquor and 4000 pieces of salt beef. Lt. Cook’s first journey was to Tahiti to view Venus, which they would not be able to see again for 105 years. On another voyage, he was in Australia on the exact same route we are traversing now. They saw kangaroos for the first time and reefs, where the ship was damaged by hitting a reef but they were able to plot the Great Barrier Reef to assist ships on future voyages. His second voyage was on the HMS Resolution with the benefit of a second ship sailing beside her, the Adventurer. They actually got within 50 miles of Antarctica! On his last voyage when he discovered the Hawaiian Islands, he was in ill-health and 47 years old. Bligh was with him and after much confusion with the natives on Hawaii, they found themselves being attacked and Captain Cook died at the hands of the natives.

The next lecture was on “NASA – from Golden Age to Middle Age” by Apollo Astronaut Walter Cunningham. It takes 90 minutes to orbit the Earth so they experience 45 minutes of darkness/night and 45 minutes of light/daylight. One hour of light is approximately 5 minutes in space. They could see an iceberg from space which was approx. 43 x 21 miles big – and remember that 80% of an iceberg is UNDER the water!

I did some work and we met friends for lunch in the buffet. Worked for a while in the library and then swam and read by book in the sun!! It was picture perfect at the back of the ship. I love looking out and seeing NOTHING (but water!!).

We were the only people at our table for dinner, which was nice also. Nice to have tablemates but nice to have time alone. We saw the magic show of Paladino, an Italian magician. Tonight is the Big Band Ball in the Queens Room. We met Dr. Denny Whitford, our oceanographer and meteorologist onboard lecturer, and found out he is from Claymont, DE!!! He went to Claymont Jr and Sr. High and then to the Naval Academy -- anyone know him? ??

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

February 24 - at sea in the sunshine

Tuesday, February 24, 2009 – At sea – headed to Papua New Guinea!!
Swam early this morning and it felt great. 10:00 lecture on the volcanoes around Rabaul, Papua New Guinea and it was fascinating! Did you know there are strato and shield volcanoes? I guess I missed that lecture during school! Strato is for a conical shaped volcano and shield is for a rounded, sloping volcano. There were two large eruptions in this area – 3500 years ago and 1400 years ago. The most recent eruption in 1994 covered the area in ash with a 24 feet high tsunami. Imagine what happened 3500 years ago...We saw photos where the ash covered cars up to the door handles! The sea was covered in PUMICE, which was spewn out of the volcano into the sea. The boats were still floating but the pumice around them made the area look like land!

Another digital camera workshop and then lunch with friends in the Golden Lion Pub (my first hamburger onboard!). We headed up to the buffet for coffee and realized the Executive Chef was grilling hot pancakes for Shrove Tuesday! Shrove Tuesday gets its name from the shriving (confession) that Anglo-Saxon Christians were expected to receive immediately before Lent. This day is also known as Pancake Day or Pancake Tuesday and it is customary to eat pancakes. They are slightly thicker than a French crepe and are served with a sprinkling of super fine sugar, and a dash of fresh lemon juice or with syrup. Delicious!!

At 2:30, the crew had a Pancake Challenge! Each department had costumes and they had to run down the path holding a frying pan and flipping the pancake in the air as they ran the course. 12 teams competed and it was fun. The costumes were imaginative! One department dressed up as cannibals and actually carried a person out on a stick; he was hanging over the top of the stick like he was being speared! In a pail they had two hands and a leg sticking out…what creativity!...and how appropriate for the area!!

Met with the purser’s office and then I took a nap in the sun! The monsoons never came and we had the most glorious afternoon. It was a real summer day with beautiful white clouds in a blue sky with high humidity and calm seas. I went for another swim in the pool in the back of the ship and we dressed for formal night. We had box seats in the Royal Court Theater and sat in the “Royal Box” where Prince Charles and Her Highness Camilla sat in December 2007. We were escorted in by red uniformed ushers to a private lounge. In there, we enjoyed chocolate coated ice cream balls and strawberries decorated to look like a tuxedo and drinks and then were treated to special chocolates at our seats. We were entertaining the couple who were on their 30th consecutive world cruise and we all have fun. The show was DANCE PASSION.

Where did the term POSH originate? This colloquialism for “grand”, “swell” or “first-rate” is said to have originated in the old days of constant steamship travel between England and India. Passengers traveling would book their return passage with the arrangement “Port Out, Starboard Home”, thus ensuring cabins on the cooler side of the ship, as it was unbearably hot when crossing the Indian Ocean. Passengers would book “POSH” accordingly, and “POSH” soon came to be applied to a first-class passenger who could afford this luxury.

CAIRNS, Australia

Monday, February 23, 2009 – CAIRNS (Yorkey’s Knob) – Great Barrier Reef
We changed our clocks again one hour backward! (again!)
Gray and cloudy but not raining! Warm, humid and finally sunny!

We anchored about 7AM and were able to get onto the first tender off the ship. After a bit of a delay we were able to get into the first taxi which appeared on the scene…we had to make an 8:45 departure on the SkyRail. We soared above the rainforest canopy in gondolas for 4.7 miles! There were two great stops – one for a guided walk through the rainforest with Rob, and the other was a stop at Barron Falls.
Rob was a great teacher about the various ferns and xxx-phytes, whether they were above the tree, on the ground or attached to the tree…all the words ended in -phyte! We saw a fantastic size strangler fig (tree) that grows from the top of the tree downward and encircles a healthy tree. As it closes in around the tree, it literally kills the tree and the new shell around the tree is of the strangler fig with the dead tree inside the strangler. From the SkyRail, we could see out to the Coral Sea where our ship was anchored. Barron Falls and Barron Gorge National Park (World Heritage listed) are a spectacular example of a Wet Tropics area. The falls were flowing rapidly with muddy water from the two weeks of rain just prior to our arrival. There is also a weir (dam) in the area.

We arrived at the village of Kuranda and went on the free shuttle bus to the end of the village and visited Birdworld, Koala Gardens and the Butterfly Sanctuary.

Birdworld Kuranda is Australia’s largest collection of free flying birds. They have a cassowary bird, which is on the endangered species list. This bird looks prehistoric, eats their food whole and does not digest it very much. Their droppings are a good source for re-planting and re-growth in the rainforest as the seeds are distributed through the droppings! There are approx. 1500 birds alive, according to the most recent records.

Kuranda Koala Garden was great. You could cuddle a koala, walk among and feed the wallabies (smaller kangaroos; macropods), see the freshwater crocodiles sunning on the side of the pond, glance at and run from lizards, snakes and other reptiles and see my favorite, the wombat! On a previous trip, I fell in love with a baby wombat and actually a bought a stuffed wombat which still resides on the shelf above my bed. Wombats are marsupials and are playful, quick to learn and sleep a lot. They can dig up to a six feet of burrow a night. They look like a long-haired, stocky, dark-colored pig with a snout that waddles. So cute!

The Butterfly Sanctuary: There are 382 species that are Australian, out of the 20,000 species worldwide! Butterflies fly by day, fold their wings straight up above their bodies while at rest, can see forward, backward, up, down and sideways and live for several weeks. They feed on nectar from flowers and have no real mouth, but suck the nectar through a tongue-like appendage called a proboscis.

There are many, many shops and cafes and markets in Kuranda. It is an actual village with residents (Aboriginal and European/Australian) and hotels and a post office.
We wandered around but it was quite humid and we were feeling it.

We took the Kuranda Scenic Railway back to Cairns. The line was begun in 1886 and despite dense jungle and cliffs with sheer drops of hundreds of feet and a slope as steep as 45 degrees, the line was finally completed. They created 15 hand-carved tunnels, 93 curves, dozens of bridges and 170 miles of track and opened the tracks in June 1891. “Fortitude, sweat and bare hands…your journey did not come easy.”
The seats are benches and the windows are tiny. For a train buff or tourist, it is a nice ride!

We were delayed over 25 minutes on our return train journey and just made the shuttle bus from Cairns back to the ship in Yorkey’s Knob. We really wanted to wander around Cairns but there was no time! A nice catamaran took us back to the ship, after we were handed cold towels and cold water before boarding. What a life!...
Today, this thought crossed my mind: I am walking around fanning myself furiously in Cairns, Australia, with a fan from Guatemala. And I did not take a plane to get from one country to the other, I took a ship. And I am still on that ship. Oh wow.

We ate in the alternative restaurant tonight with friends – had fondue. It was a nice meal and service but I was still hungry when we left! The show was a pianist – excellent!

Most people come to Cairns to visit the Great Barrier Reef. It is the largest coral reef system in the world, composed of over 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands stretching for 1,600 miles over 133,000 square miles. It is located in the Coral Sea in northeast Australia. It can be seen from outer space and is the world’s biggest single structure made by living organisms. The reef structure is composed of and built by billions of tiny organisms, known as coral polyps. The reef supports a wide diversity of life and was selected as a World Heritage Site in 1981. We had taken several trips out there on past visits and it is definitely a must-do in this area.

Several of you have asked what happened to my glasses. In Auckland, when the client had to have his glasses re-made, I had them straighten mine as “somehow” they were bent out of shape. At that point, I found out the hinge was broken and when they did straighten them there was no guarantee that it would not make them worse. Well, they did straighten them but a short time later, the arm was bent again and the left arm/bow broke off. I have another pair but they are not the same strength and since I needed a new prescription anyway, it was time to resolve that issue first before trying to get the new glasses. I could have made due with them but I could not put my face into the wind on the balcony without fear of them blowing away into the sea!! And I want to be out there feeling that wonderful breeze against my skin! Therefore, the major expense of new glasses – my gift to myself from our port call in Sydney.

Rainy Day!

Sunday, February 22, 2009 – Day at sea in the RAIN!!
We sailed through the Whitsunday Islands and it poured almost all day long. I slept in and ran off to country line dancing. Captain Wright conducted an inter-denominational church service and it was quite nice. The little electric piano sounded just like a grandiose organ! We enjoyed lunch with friends and had great pasta and meatballs and stracciatella soup!

Worked in the afternoon and listened to a commentary on the Whitsunday Islands. There are 74 islands and 69 of them are national parks. Seven has major resorts on them. Captain Cook was here in 1770 on his ship, the Endeavor. Hamilton Island is the most developed island with high rises and day trips out to the Great Barrier Reef. We have visited there on a previous trip and they have many mangroves and nice beaches. Hayman Island is the only property/island which is a member of “Leading Hotels of the World” in the entire country!

Semi-Formal dinner tonight and we enjoyed a Welsh comedian, Kenny Smiles. He gave a great show!

Missed: Lectures on “Australia’s Great Barrier Reef – the World’s Greatest Eco-system”, “International Year of Astronomy 2009”, Champagne Art Auction and Art History @ Sea, Watercolor Art Class, Cha-Cha dance class, Bible Class, New Vogue Sequence Dancing, Golf Chipping and Quoits!

Saturday, February 21, 2009

February 21 - at sea on the east coast of Australia

Saturday, February 21, 2009 – east coast of Australia
Sunny and warm

I slept late. I admit it, I was being lazy. I was tired!
Ran to the country line dancing class and then a lecture by Apollo Astronaut Walter Cunningham!! I was thrilled. He will give four lectures on the last frontier, another dream of mine! He had many photos to share. He is America’s second civilian Astronaut. In 1967, he was a member of the backup crew for Apollo 1 when the prime crew was killed in a fire on the pad. He was then assigned to the first manned flight of the Apollo program to land a man on the Moon. In 1968, he orbited the earth 163 times as the pilot of Apollo 7. He became Chief of the Skylab Astronauts, where he was responsible for the design, development and integration of systems for the largest spacecraft, manned or unmanned, ever placed in orbit. He is now an entrepreneur, venture capitalist, lecturer, author of the “All-American Boys” and host of a radio talk show and a member of the Astronaut Hall of Fame.

After lunch with friends, I wrote postcards and enjoyed a classical piano concert by David Quigley. I watched a few minutes of the movie “No Country for Old Men” but it was too violent for me. I did some work and sat in the lobby for my group to stop by.

I received two letters from friends in DE and CT! How exciting. One was mailed on January 20 and the other on February 3 and they were in my hands today. Thank you!!!

Tonight was formal with the Black and White Ball. John Zaradin played the Spanish guitar and we had a performance of Sinatra music and dance by the Royal Cunard Singers and Dancers. We danced in the Officers Gavotte at the Ball and watched the professional dancer instructors (Melloney and Alain) perform a rumba. We also managed to squeeze in a load of laundry tonight.

We are sailing up the east coast of Australia and can see land most of the time! It was the most incredible sunset. Pinks and grays and yellows…

Missed: Lecture on “The Sinking of the Hospital Ship Centaur”, Australian Opals Seminar and a photographic journey of coral reefs ---- we hope to watch them tomorrow on TV.

Sydney - Part 2

We wandered back toward the Opera House and I bought a standing room ticket for The Magic Flute opera tonight!! I am excited. It will be in German with English surtitles (above the stage) at 7:30 PM.

We headed to the New South Wales Parliament and met Mr. Russell Grove, PSM, Chief Clerk of the Legislative Assembly for New South Wales.
(PSM means he has been awarded a Public Service Medal). He gave us a wonderful tour around Parliament.

Their first Parliament met in the hospital! In 1810, a contract was signed for a new General Hospital. In 1815, builders made costly alterations and in 1816, it was called the “Rum Hospital” as the builders were to receive a monopoly on rum imports from which they expected to recoup the cost of the building and gain considerable profits, along with convict labor and supplies. The newly constituted Legislative Council Members convene in old Government House in 1824. Governor Darling appropriates the north wing of the Principal Surgeon’s Quarters of the General Hospital to accommodate the Legislative Council and Executive Council in 1824. The first meeting of the 14 Member Legislative Council is held in 1829 in the Surgeon’s Quarters. Strangers’ Gallery (we call it the visitors gallery) was erected in 1838. A new Chamber is designed in 1843. The Old Council Chamber becomes the new Legislative Assembly Chamber with a bi-cameral Parliament in 1856. Electric lights were introduced in 1884. There were several renovations and additions of buildings and rooms with the last renovation and restoration of old Parliament House being done between 1974-85. They used the décor from 1892 and 1904 as a basis of the present Legislative Council and Legislative Assembly decorations.

The Legislative Council: The Parliament of New South Wales is Australia’s oldest Parliament. It first met in 1824 and has been at this site since 1829 and in its present Chamber since 1856. Called the Upper House, it consists of 42 members, each elected to represent the whole State (New South Wales). Mr. Peter Primrose is the current President and we met him in the elevator as he was leaving for the night.

The Legislative Assembly: The Lower House of Parliament consists of 93 members, each representing one of the State’s 93 electorates. The Assembly was established in 1856 and their meeting Chamber was built in 1843. It is one of the oldest continuously used Parliamentary Chambers in the world. Mr. Richard Torbay is the Speaker of the Legislative Assembly. They do not have electronic voting, people physically take shorthand for 10-15 minute periods of time and then retire to transcribe and then return to take shorthand during the meetings, they meet from Tuesday afternoon until early Friday afternoon for approx. 95 days a year, members sit on benches (no desks or microphones) and this is a full-time job for its members with a yearly salary of approx. US$86,600.
www.parliament.nsw.gov.au

The use of Red and Green as the respective colors of the Legislative Council and Legislative Assembly Chambers is a tradition inherited from the British Parliament of Westminster. The use of red for the House of Lords and for most Upper Houses is attributed to red traditionally being a royal color. One theory for the use of green in the Lower House was that in the 14th century the general decoration of the Palace of Westminster was green, as this was a favorite color of King Henry III who built much of the Palace of Westminster.

Then we went to explore the old Sheraton Wentworth Hotel, which is now a Sofitel. Mark was a bell hop from our stays there in the past from the ‘90s and he was very kind to us. Wouldn’t you know he was the first one we saw upon entering the hotel!!! He is now a Chief Concierge of the highest order for the hotel and it was wonderful to see him again. I met friends and off we went to the Sydney Opera House, while Gene went exploring to the Sydney Casino (he won!).

My evening was so incredibly special. It was the best operatic performance I have even seen in my life. It was a blend of a Disney ride with sets spinning, Broadway costumes, Rocky Horror Show exaggeration, Cirque du Soleil acrobats, fire dances, dragons with electric lights…it was absolutely incredible; funny and light-hearted and such a superb production. Especially for those not particularly “tuned in” to opera. It was a true example of how opera should be performed to entice everyone to want more. There were approx. 60 actors and singers and the voices of the cast were all excellent. It is a definite highlight of the trip and I am so pleased to have been able to attend.

Gene met me after the show and as we were walking back to the ship, Len, a purser, greeted us. We were touched that he came up to us to say good-bye as he was on his “free time” with his girlfriend walking around the harbor. He goes back to South Africa tomorrow and will not be returning to the ship. When we did return to the ship, we went to say goodbye to the other pursers who leave tomorrow. Tomorrow night will see many new faces around the ship!

There was an Aboriginal dancing show onboard which we missed. I am sure it was great but since we have seen them before, I feel we used our time very wisely.
From our balcony, we face Circular Quay, where five wharfs act as a central station for private and state ferries. The system is incredibly dependable, inexpensive and rivals any major train station with its timely service. Boats of all sizes are constantly moving in and out and our balcony was the perfect place to view them all. I even took a photo of the time table to show how its complexity.

Friday, February 20, 2009 – Sydney Day 2
Gene went to the suburb of Gymea for dental work. I watched the sun rise over the Opera House, swam and worked on the computer in the stateroom. I headed out to McDonald’s for the free WIFI and had a terrible time getting connected but some of the ship’s crew were there also and they were a great help! I am finding out they are always there for me!

I worked and enjoyed the people-watching also. As their cancer rates are so high, hats are part of the school uniform in Australia and New Zealand and several sets of students went past – all headed in to McDonald’s, of course! There is no difference between the youth in the USA or anywhere else around the world…There were several buskers out around the wharf. They were performing magic, playing the didgeridoo (an Aboriginal instrument), country music, and an Army band was playing Big Band Music. Another perfect day and we listened to all of it. After lunch, we ran up to collect my glasses and they were ready! Great news!

Back to the ship and we enjoyed a great view on the sail out of the Sydney harbor. It is an unbelievably beautiful way to enter or leave a city. The weather was picture perfect. The ferry boats were darting around us and the police boats were keeping the sailboats, kayakers and speed boats out of our path. Helicopters buzzed above and we slowly moved up to the Heads of the Sydney harbor and out to sea. It will be forever in my memory.

Dinner was semi-formal and then we enjoyed a great concert by Gary Williams, who played in the Rat Pack in London. My type of music! It was great!

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Sydney...part 1


Thursday, February 19, 2009 – SYDNEY
Up at 5 – Dr. Paula Smith gave highlights as we sailed into Sydney Harbor in the dawn. The sun rose about 6:30 and we saw the lights of the city and the Opera House and Sydney Harbor Bridge in front of us. It was beautiful.

Our port-side balcony faces the Opera House!! What a fantastic view! The sun was shining brilliantly and off we went. We bought a phone card and could not find a phone. A wonderful Australian women in McDonald’s let us use her phone and I made an eye appointment with the optometrist and Gene called about a dental issue. Walking up George Street we found a different office and I had my eyes examined there at about a 1/3 of the price in the USA and since I don’t have insurance for this anymore…it was a deal! They told me I could not get the new glasses before departure tomorrow and we left. But glancing around at all the store fronts we found another eye glass store and they are stating a 75% chance I can get them tomorrow. Otherwise, we will have them shipped to Elsebeth in Hong Kong! It will work. Gene tried about six dental offices with no success. It was hot and sunny and we really enjoyed exploring the streets in the city center. Many memories of the days we spent in Sydney before and after our driving around the country. It is a great city! The harbor front, the ferry system, the Opera House, the bridge, the cafes…it was a perfect day to enjoy it all.

Photo is of Gene on the steps of the Opera House with the ship in the background!

On the way to Sydney...


Wednesday, February 18, 2009 – day at sea - -cloudy, rainy, cold

Up at 7 to swim with huge waves sloshing over the sides of the pool. It was cold! So I ventured into the sauna and it was wonderfully warm and relaxing. Lecture on the Sydney Opera House (our next port of call tomorrow) and the Danish architect, Jorgen Utson; country-line dancing, lunch with a 93-year old friend from Australia who leaves the ship tomorrow!; guest talent show, computer work, met with clients and then an Indian dinner with English friends in the alternative dining restaurant. It was good but we would not have known what to order so we had a sampler for each course! They had options from the various Indian regions and we were not hungry when we left. The show was two musicians: Glenn Amer (singer and pianist) and Doug Cameron, violinist.

Hobart, Australia


Tuesday, February 17, 2009 – Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Perfect day! Fabulous weather with clear blue skies with a slight breeze at 65 degrees
We set the clocks back another hour. When it is noon here, it is 8PM the night before in Delaware.

“An exile, saddest of all prisoners; who has the whole world for a dungeon strong; Seas, mountains, and the horizon’s verge for bars.” Lord Byron

We were up very early to see the approach to Hobart through the narrows. It was gorgeous! Sun rises approx. 6:30 and there were mountains on both sides of us with little towns scattered over the mountainside. Had breakfast in the room as we sailed in to port and disembarked about 9.

Hobart is the state capital and most populous city of the Australian Island state of Tasmania. Founded in 1803 as a penal colony, the city was more of a prison camp than a capital. A permanent detachment of 25 officers guarded the original 178 convicts. Population was approx. 205,500 in 2006. The city is the home port for both Australian and French Antarctic Operations. Mount Wellington is approx. 3850 feel high. From the General Post Office, it was here on March 8, 1912 that Roald Amundsen sent his telegram to confirm to the world that he had indeed reached the South Pole and returned safely. Other sites: Shot Tower, St. David’s Cathedral, Parliament House, Old Hobart Gaol (jail), Australia Antarctic Division (museum), Mercury Print Museum (their newspaper), Tasmanian Distillery and Museum, Transport Museum, Cadbury Chocolate Factory, Russell Falls and the Cascade Brewery (Australia’s oldest).

Hurried up hill to Avis to pick up the minivan and met the rest of the gang of five for our day trip to Port Arthur. It is approx. 60 miles each way and we found our way easily out of town -- over the Tasman Bridge on Route A3 and headed to the southeast of town. Beautiful drive on windy roads through Sorrell, the largest of the small villages en route to Port Arthur. We stopped to pick up our lunch/picnic and continued on down the beautiful road, passing beautiful bays with deep blue water, sheep, cows, horses, the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park, many vineyards and much farmland. Gorgeous drive on a near-perfect day!

Port Arthur penal settlement began life as a small timber station in 1830. Originally designed as a replacement for the recently closed timber camp at Birches Bay, it quickly grew in importance within the penal system of the colonies.

The initial decade of settlement saw a penal station hacked from the bush, and industries, such as ship building, shoe making, smithing, timber and brick making established. In the 1840s there were over 1100 convicts. Soon a huge flour mill, granary and hospital were started and in 1848, the first stone was laid for the Separate Prison (solitary confinement). At that point, there was a complete shift in punishment philosophy from physical to mental subjugation. The site expanded as the convicts pushed further into the encircling hills to extract the valuable timber.

1850s and 1860s were years of remarkable activity with expansive tracts of bush being harvested to feed a burgeoning timber industry and large plots of ground were turned over to cultivation. They converted the old flour mill and granary into a penitentiary and workshops were built to house a steam-driven saw mill, blacksmith and forge and carpentry workshop. In the 1870s, the settlement began to dwindle as the convicts were either too aged, infirm or insane to be of any use. The last convict was shipped out in 1877. There were terrible fires in 1895 and 1897 which destroyed many buildings (there were 200 and are now just 30). With the settlement’s closure also came the first tourists. By the 1920s and 1930s, the area had three hotels and two museums.

Included in the price of the ticket is a guided tour of the prison and a guided boat ride out past the island were the boys lived, Point Pues. 3000 boys passed through this reformatory built exclusively for juvenile male convicts (ages 8-18) in the British Empire. It was renowned for its regime of stern discipline and harsh punishment. The Isle of the Dead is where over 1100 people are buried -- without tombstones or markers. The lower half of the island was reserved for convict, lunatics, invalids and paupers. Originally, no tombstone or other mark was to be placed on their graves, but some appear as regulations were relaxed after the 1850s. The high ground was reserved for civil and military burials. Pneumonia, dysentery, drowning, scurvy, whooping cough, scarlet fever, stroke, heart disease and childbirth were some of the reasons for death found in the medical records left behind.

Many examples were given of men and boys who, after stealing a seemingly small amount of bread, or other item, received banishment from England to Hobart, Australia, as their punishment. They were never to see their families again and suffered horrible punishments with whips, salt and sun.

As we walked in the beautiful warm sunshine and sailed on the crystal clear deep blue water around the bay and saw the remains of the prison buildings in front of us, it was very, very hard to visualize the prison and the oppressive atmosphere the inmates faced. Ghost tales are re-told on evening tours and I am sure you would leave feeling the spirits of the past.

“The model for Port Arthur was discipline and punishment, religious and moral instruction, classification and separation, training and education. It was an ambitious experiment. Its methods seem cruel today, and many men were broken. Some were absorbed into other experiments, the beginnings of the modern welfare system or of the modern asylum. But some men did leave equipped for a future that they could not otherwise have dreamed of. All of the buildings are a monument to the trade training they received, from the production of the building materials through to construction.

Port Arthur is not just a monument to an ambitious but deeply flawed experiment that took place a long time ago. It has lessons for us today as we continue to wrestle with the need for punishment and reform within our criminal justice system.”

Upon our return to Hobart, we did a quick tour of Salamanca Place which consists of a splendid row of Georgian sandstone warehouses dating back to the 1830s, now converted into cafes, craft shops, galleries and restaurants.

After returning the car, we hustled back to the ship and missed a 4:30 concert by the Tasmania Police Pipe Band, but we were able to see them as they played a beautiful concert, complete with marching!, as we prepared to sail! In their kilts and bagpipes and drums, it was quite an event harborside! The group was formed in 1969 and have performed at ceremonies, community events and at international Police Military Tatoos.

Ate oriental in the buffet, did laundry, watched the production number of “CELTIC HEARTBEAT” and went to bed exhausted. What a wonderful day! I would definitely return to Tasmania to explore and relax.

Day at sea


Monday, February 16, 2009 - Australian Immigration onboard!
Sunny and cool – about 60 degrees

Two computer classes and seafood buffet! Had lunch with the onboard film historian, Barry Brown. Piano and violin concert in the Queens Room with Helen Leek and Ellie Fagg, computer work and broken dentures! We have a dentist onboard, one level up, how convenient can it be! It is amazing what is available on this ship. Dentist could not quite resolve the issue but we are in port tomorrow and in Sydney in a few days to figure it all out.

Lectures by Military Historian Alan Titheridge, about “Antarctica, the Early Exploration” and Mr. Brown discussed “Hollywood Down Under”.
We even had Australian government employees onboard to process our immigration paperwork! They have been onboard since Tonga -- how efficient! -- and what a treat for the civil servants! It took less than 20 minutes for the paperwork and in-person meeting. Australia has strict quarantine regulations that prohibit the removal of any ships stores from the vessel. Fines are severe for all passengers on both airplanes and ships. They do this to protect their island country from foreign diseases to their plants, trees and animals.

Semi-formal night and we had the comedian again, name not worth remembering (how awful to write that!) and the wonderful singing of Robert Meadmore again.

Photo is on Kaloni, our driver, from Tonga. I have tried and tried to down/up load photos and it does not work. The server is too slow at McDonald's or it is me...I can send one at a time so I will attempt that method!

Masquerade Ball


Sunday, February 15, 2009 – day at sea around Stewart Island, NZ and Masquerade Ball
Cloudy day; about 60 degrees
“Love doesn’t make the world go ’round. Love is what makes the voyage worthwhile.” Franklin P. Jones

Slept late and had breakfast in the dining room for the first time. Pancakes!! Read about the next ports of call and attended the digital camera discussion. Lunch with friends and discussed trips we have enjoyed! Then to the library to get the book for the Book Club – “East of the Sun” by Julia Gregson..

Cleaned up the room and listened to the lectures about Christchurch (we are always a day behind since we listen on the stateroom TV and not live in the theatre).
Was able to download the photos onto a disk and had some trouble doing that. After two visits to the onboard camera lab and computer office, they were resolved. They have at least one expert onboard for every need you may have! What a wonderful thing!!

Formal night and Masquerade Ball! All dressed up and we wore our masks and were awarded prizes! Everyone looked great!
Great piano and singing by Glenn Amer.

Photos -- FINALLY!





Am in Sydney and am trying to add photos from the free wifi at McDonald's! Here we go...They will probably be out of order but hopefully you can figure it out!

Pollywog mess from crossing the equator (Lady lying down and she is being slathered in jello, spaghetti, pudding, eggs...!)

Apia Samoa - photo of us in front of a cemetery which is typically in front of a house and moved with you when you buy/sell your home

Honolulu - Bowfin submarine -- I am standing beside a bunk bed which has a torpedo between the bunks! The other photo is the submarine.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Valentine's Day in Christchurch, NZ with friends

Saturday, February 14, 2009 – Lyttelton, New Zealand for the city of Christchurch
We did not sleep much as the ship was really pitching all night long. Not the rolling from side to side but the bucking from front to back. I had delivered valentines to my group very late and the various floors had numerous creaks and groans.

Up at 6:30, ate in the room and watched as we pulled into Lyttelton harbor. It was gray and misty and cold! The town crier met up on the pier, ringing his bell.
The early Canterbury Pilgrims landed here. The Timeball Station is castle-like and sits above the town. In the days before GPS and atomic clocks, ships would make sure their chronometers were accurate by checking them when the large ball was lowered. The ball is still raised above the tower five minutes before 1PM and then dropped exactly on the hour.

Cunard offers free shuttle buses to the ports it does sail directly in to so we hopped the bus to the center of Lyttelton town. Bob and Evelyn, our friends for many years, met us there and it was so good to see them again. There were several people meeting family and I heard one woman exclaim over a niece she had never seen in person, only in photos. What a joyous reunion for so many people!

We were then off in their SUV for a day of errands and visiting. First for haircuts with Joss, in her home. Wonderful haircut and a great visit of her beautiful garden! Then to the shopping center for the post office, camera store, lunch and grocery shopping…normal Saturday duties! Then to the their lovely home for internet work and to see all the progress Bob has made on their large garden, with the giant vegetables he grows in multitude and walls he is building to block the wind to create a peaceful haven outside. We took photos and chatted and headed to the ship. They had a tour and we enjoyed high tea in the Queens Room and then they were off! And we were off! The sun finally came out as we pulled out of the port and headed down the southeast coast of New Zealand.

Christchurch sits in the Canterbury plains cradled between a jagged ridge of snowy mountains and the remnants of two small conjoined volcanoes pressing out into the Pacific Ocean. John Robert Godley was sent to New Zealand in 1850 by a British organization to prepare for the arrival of settlers for a planned Church of England community. Four ships arrived that year bearing roughly 800 pioneers and the new town was named for Godley’s college at Oxford. The buildings are built in the Gothic Revival style with dark gray stone carved out of the nearby Port Hills, which gives the city a slightly English feel. It was here that Kate Shepphard, whose portrait is printed on the $10 note, began organizing her campaign that led to New Zealand being the first country in the world to grant women the vote.

The city is compact and easy to explore by foot. The population is 350,000 and is the largest city on the South Island. It is the forward supply depot for the main U.S. Antarctic base at McMurdo Sound and if you come in their summertime, you will see the giant U.S. Air Force transport plans of Operation Deep Freeze at the airport.

Rugby is the main sport of the country and the All-Blacks (national team) are based in Christchurch. There was a bike/hike race from the city to the beach and we saw several racers beside us as we drove through town.

Some sights to explore…
- One of the greatest little train journeys in the world is the Tranz-Alpine Express, which travels through the Southern Alps to the West Coast, weaving through gorgeous scenery from the fields of the Canterbury Plains through rugged gorges and high mountains to the jade green, wild West Coast bush.
- Cathedral Square, with the city’s dominating landmark begun in 1864. You can climb the bell tower also and enjoy evensong sung by its boys’ choir
- Botanic Gardens (think big – trees were started in the 19th century) and the Bridge of Remembrance in memory of the soldiers from WWI
- Canterbury Museum – founded in 1867, there is a large exhibit of moa bones (Jurassic birds which roamed the Canterbury plains and were hunted by the Maori), an early city streetscape and the Hall of Antarctic Discovery
- Southern Encounter Aquarium and Kiwi House, Christchurch Gondola for the best vantage point from which to overlook the city, International Antarctic Centre, Punting on the Avon River

Women were presented with roses at dinner and then we had a fabulous violinist play a lively concert of country and popular songs.

Lazy day at sea...rough seas!

Friday, February 13, 2009 – extremely lazy day at sea
Slept very late and had sandwiches in the room. Rough seas were just beginning, as we were to find out later. Went to the fitness center and then remembered we had computer class at 2:30. Formal night for the Valentine’s Day Ball and everyone looked grand in their reds, blacks and whites. Very elegant! The Queens Room is decorated beautifully with pink heart balloons.

After dinner we had a great entertainer from the West End in London (their equivalent of our Broadway), Robert Meadmore. He has played in Les Mis, Oklahoma, My Fair Lady…all the great American classics. FANTASTIC tenor voice and I would love to hear him in a production show! He was an outstanding solo singer.

VERY ROUGH SEAS. We are being thrown around all over the place and can hear the waves breaking and shaking the ship. Wonder how the night will be?!?!?

Auckland, New Zealand! "City of Sails"

Thursday, February 12, 2009 – AUCKLAND, New Zealand
We arrived before dawn so we were headed into the commercial wharf area with the city lights on as the tug boat chugged along beside us. We pulled into the exact same wharf/pier we were in the last time I was in NZ!

The sun came up and it turned into a muggy day with sporadic sunshine and a slight breeze most of the day.
We had ½ of our ordered breakfast delivered by room service – such a dilemma to have!!

www.aucklandnz.com
Known as the “City of Sails”, it was the capital until 1865 when Wellington was chosen as the approximate physical center of the island nation. There are two large islands – the North and the South – and Stewart Island is the most southern.
Auckland is built atop a cluster of extinct volcanoes and its fertile landscape blends seamlessly with the modern metropolitan skyline. There are nearly a million residents and is the nation’s gateway for ships and air traffic. There are some 70,000 sailing craft and private powerboats in the greater Auckland region – this means one boat for every four households!

Early departure off the ship to meet the guide and driver – Jock and Richard – who were very professional and fun. The group left about 9 and we headed into the city to Ponsonby School, a primary school which has been in existence since 1872. We have six rows of students, ages 8-9, speak and sing to us. Would have been great to have a map of the USA so we could show them where we were from! They asked us about the ship, our homes and we asked about theirs. Several were also outside for their gym class so some of the group became involved in catching balls and reliving our youth!

We headed up the coastline toward Mt. Eden (Maungawhau in Maori language), Auckland’s tallest volcanic cone. There were beautiful views of the various tributaries and the city skyline. Drove past One Tree Hill, the largest extinct volcano, which was the site of one of three Maori Pa (fortifications). The signature lone pine was taken down in 2000 and there is now an obelisk. We drove through Parnell to see the blooming rose gardens – some 5,000 rose bushes! The village of Parnell has pretty Victorian timber villas now housing antique shops, designer boutiques and cafes.

Continuing through the countryside to Mauwui, the black sand beach, we then drove past the wineries, gannet colony and hundreds of sheep and cows. The wineries now plant roses at the end of each row of grapes. As roses are much more susceptible to disease, they find out that if the roses show any sign of disease, they immediately spray the grapes. Makes sense to me and it makes the grapes look even nicer with flowering roses there!

McHugh’s Restaurant was on the coast with a BEAUTIFUL view of the water, which was being whipped into a frenzy with high waves; ideal for parasailing. Very shallow waters and the kids had to go way, way out to get started.

Other highlights in the city and surrounding area:
- Rangitoto Island is a volcano and you can visit via ferry from downtown Auckland
- Auckland Museum is one of the finest museums in the Southern Hemisphere with significant collections of Maori and Pacific treasures
- Native Bird sanctuary on Tiritiri Matangi island
- Crew ex-America’s Cup yachts!
- Head west to Kumeu and sample Auckland’s longest established vineyards
- Ride miniature steam train at Butterfly Creek
- Kelly Tarlton’s Underwater World and Antarctic Adventure
- There is a hop on/hop off bus for easy exploring
- Meet the animals in the Auckland Zoo (see the kiwis and blue penguins

We returned to the ship after getting a new pair of glasses for a friend who had lost his in Tonga. That was a real feat – trying to coordinate the prescription and selection of frames from sea!!! But we did it!!!! And he claims they are better than the pair he had!
After a quick shower, we left for a walking tour on our own. Headed up Queen Street to the shops and the SkyTower, New Zealand’s tallest building. Great views from the top if you can stand a see-through walkout panel! Beneath your feet, you look through plexiglass and see directly to the streets below…You can also bungee jump from the top – 630 feet high! But not me.

New Zealand has a 12.5% goods and services tax. Tipping is not expected but it is becoming more common for extra special service or kindness. We are now a day and 6 hours ahead of Delaware! US citizens do not require a Visa for entry to the country. Their summer months are December – February, as we are in the Southern Hemisphere. Their currency is the NZ dollar

Headed back quickly to the ship so we were not left behind and then it started to pour! Enjoyed a Mexican dinner in the Lido buffet and then a comedian.

Day at sea - playing Hamlet!

Wednesday, February 11, 2009 – at sea – beautifully sunny day!
Drama at 9 and we re-enacted HAMLET in a 2 minute sketch in the style of an Australian soap opera. It was not easy, but all in fun…Country line dancing and then computer work and lunch with friends (every time I say “friends”, I mean client friends. They are friends but they are also clients…). I do enjoy getting to know them on a personal basis. The drama team performed Valentine poems and sonnets to the accompaniment of the harp in the Queens Room – very nice touch!

Gorgeous day outside but more work to do. Then I had to make time for the fitness room and decided to end with a swim since I was so sweaty and it was so gorgeous outside! Dressed for semi-formal tonight and I had three desserts! Terrible!! But only once! Never again…
Tried to get some computer work done but I kept meeting people to talk to along the corridor to the computer room…so I had only about 15 minutes left before the show. We saw Bettine Clemens play her flute as she showed movies of her playing to the animals around the world – the elephants in Sri Lanka, the penguins in Argentina, the lions in Africa, the monkeys in the zoo….Then the comedy of John Evans and then the opera singing of Anthony Stuart Lloyd. Finished off the information packs for our tour tomorrow in Auckland.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Feb 10 - day at sea headed toward Auckland, New Zealand

Tuesday, February 10, 2009 – at sea on the way to Auckland –
Very tired but tried to swim even with the waves sloshing up so high on the ends of the pool! It was crazy to be out there so I finally gave up. After breakfast in the room, we did work for the tour in Auckland and Valentine’s Day cards for the passengers. Worked and met with the crew and had a nice lunch with a friend. Had some computer issues and then dressed for a formal night and “another” Captain’s cocktail party. They are nice events with ice carvings and chefs cooking in front of you and cocktails. Dinner was a fun time and I had the best eggplant parmigiana – it was layered in the shape of round pyramids and very attractive, besides being delicious! They make any pasta dish you want in the Lido Buffet and I have not even tried that option yet.

This ship is really like a small community. You walk around and see your friends and stop to talk and then move on…many are getting off next week in Sydney and we will have a big changeover of crew and passengers.

Had a fantastic production show – the best I have ever, ever seen on a ship -- VICTORIANA. Upon entering the theater, they presented us with British flags, hankerchiefs and streamers to wave during the show. Fantastic period costumes from 1830-1900 and songs presented as if it were a music hall in Victorian London.

Tonga, the Friendly Islands!

Monday, February 09, 2009 – Tonga, The Friendly Islands!
We were up early to view the arrival in to Nuku’alofa, Tonga, the commercial, transport and social centre of Tonga. The American Army built a wharf here in 1942. This island is flat, consisting of coral limestone, with approx. 176 islands total of which 40 are inhabited. The population is approx. 101,000. They have never been colonized by any European power and cannibalism ended with the arrival of missionaries in the 1820s. The natives wanted to absorb the power and skill of those eaten and it was considered an honor to be chosen. Even today, the people are known “for their girth”; in the past, the heaviest people were the most respected in society. This is the last remaining Polynesian monarchy with King Taufa’ahau Tupouo V. The ruling royal family can be traced back more than 1000 years. The exchange rate is approx. US$1 = 1.89TOPS – the Tongan Pa’anga.

This is a devoutly Christian nation that honors Sundays across every island. The Sabbath is declared sacred in the Tongan Constitution. Virtually every denomination is represented in Tonga with each church taking an interest in the development of the country – Roman Catholic, Seven Day Adventists, Anglicans, Methodist, Mormon, Free Wesleyan…Tongan law prohibits any person from appearing in a public place without a shirt. Most Tongans swim fully dressed.

The family is the central unit; each family member plays a role with older persons commanding the most respect. Everything is communal, from food to sleeping arrangements. Chores are distributed according to gender: men tend the ‘umu underground oven), grow and harvest food, collect and husk coconuts and perform all manual labor. Women clean wash clothes, prepare and cook food and take on the lion’s share of child-minding responsibilities. The patriarch is generally the head of the family and land passed down from a father to his eldest son.

We had to tender in to the port at Queen Selote Wharf. It was a humid day with clouds and we were five in the taxi we shared with our driver, “Cologne-E”. They drive on the left-hand side of the road. We stopped at the cemetery and walked around in wonder. They are above ground and covered with woven blankets, some with their name of the deceased woven into a crocheted piece, plastic flowers, seashells are on top of the mound and as many glittering decorations as they can find. It was beautiful to walk around and we found out every village has a beautiful cemetery.

Driving through the small streets of the capital city, we passed the white-framed Royal Palace (a Victorian home from England which was shipped here in 1867), stopped at the Royal Tombs (above ground tombs with statues) and the Centenary Church (there the Royal Family worship).

Heading out of town, we drove to Kolovai to see the trees. They were covered in “flying foxes”, fox-faced bats which eat only fruits. They are considered sacred. “Cologne-E” told he was the Island’s champion coconut tree-climber! He offered to show us his skill and of course we accepted! In 50 seconds he was up there and dropping coconuts down to us!

Off to the Houma blowholes, “The Chief’s Whistle”, (along with just about every other single bus from the cruise ship!!). There were several market vendors there and we had fun examining and buying the local pearls, coconut jewelry, fans, seashell jewelry…beautiful handicrafts.

Off to the local grocery store (their local 7-11), a barred one window 4’x8’ room with a few of every item you could ever need. Had an ice cold drink and continued down the road. It was very humid and with no air conditioning, it was pleasant as long as we kept moving!

We passed several schools. There were several all girl and all boy schools – the girls wore white blouses (to signify the cleansing of the blood of Jesus) and the red jumpers. There was a university and several theological colleges and several colleges sponsored by the churches and other public schools.

We stopped at the site where Captain Cook landed in 1777 and they had a beautiful display of the traditional dress and how it was made. Many Tongans wear wraparound skirts known as valas. They come below the knee on mean and to the ankles on women. To show respect, they wear finely woven mats known as ta’ovalas over their valas. Women wear decorative waistbands known as kiekies.

Then to the village of Lapaha, the seat of the Tui Tonga (King) for six centuries, beginning in A.D. 1200. There are ancient terraced tombs and they know there are 28 tombs but none of them have been excavated.

A little excitement when our driver was pulled over for a speeding ticket!! The policeman had a radar gun and claimed he was driving 50 in a zone for 40. The ticket was US$10 and we paid it for him. I’m sure he was talking to us and not paying attention. No discussion from the police, name/address requested and you have two days to pay at the police station.

We passed the beaches with wild pigs eating in the very shallow waters!! There were piglets and pigs and in the water and out! It was fascinating. Our friends had gone in the water and said there was a lot of coral and you had to go way, way out to get into the water for a swim. One of my client friends bought me a wooden piglet which she presented to me at the end of the day’s adventure!

Ha’amonga Trilithon is a huge archway, whose lintel stone is estimated to weight 35 tons, is 16’ high and 19’ wide. Tradition says it was built by the 11th Tui Tonga (King) long before the wheel was introduced to Tonga. It was also found to be a measure for the seasons. The mark on the top pointed to the exact spot on the horizon from which the sun rose on the shortest day of the year. How did they get this stone on top of its two supports??

He took us to his home! What an honor! His wife had made us leis of the most sweet-smelling flowers and we saw his three children (although we understood he had two children – wonder if they do not mention the girls they have…) and his mother-in-law. We took photos and gave them gifts.
We headed back to town and stopped at the markets. Bought some nice jewelry, found the internet center, tourism office, and back to the ship! What a day! We manage to jam so much in and had the nicest driver. He told us he was very honored to drive us and we felt the same. The Tongans are lovely people.

Took the tender back to the ship and the crew had trouble getting the wench to pull up the last tender boat. So we had a 1.5 hour delay in sailing. I swam; crew were setting up for a deck party BBQ dinner. It was a full moon, there was a cool breeze with a tropical band playing out by the pool…ideal evening to sail off into the sunset.

Anthony Stuart Lloyd sang songs from the West End and London – great operatic voice.
VERY TIRED. Wrote diary but was yearning to be in bed.

2 days are now one

Sunday, February 8, 2009 – LOST DAY due to the international date line
When proceeding east from Greenwich, England, one hour is lost every 15 degrees of longitude. When proceeding west, one hour is gained every 15 degrees of longitude. Consequently, 360 degrees divided by 15 degrees equals 24 hours, which causes one day to be lost when circumnavigating the globe eastwards and one day to be gained when circumnavigating westwards. To compensate for the difference, one day is added when crossing the International Date Line when going east and one day is subtracted when crossing the line when going west.
Consequently, Sunday, February 8, 2009, did not exist.

Saturday, February 7, 2009 – at sea on the way to Tonga
Lovely, lovely day. Swam at 7 and the sun was already up and shining brightly. Breakfast in the room to get ready for my drama class. We worked on Shakespeare today and our group read a sonnet with the correct cadence and emphasis on words. Lecture on Tongan society and sightseeing and lunch in the Todd English restaurant with friends. It is the specialty restaurant onboard and it was presented beautifully. Felt like we were in one of the finer restaurants in the world and the presentation and tastes were wonderful. Had crab cakes, flat bread lobster (like a pizza lobster), lobster sandwich on a croissant with homemade potato chips and vanilla crème brulee. Many other hot options so you would not even need to have dinner! $20 cover charge per person.

There was a Chef’s Salon Culinary Cooking Competition! What creative chefs we have onboard. Some of my favorites were: 1) a female shape labeled “Surf and Turf”. The body was from crab meat and the arms and legs were frogs legs! 2) a cheese carving of fish 3) a chocolate piano with keys 4) fruit in the shapes of many animals of the sea, including penguins, dolphins approx. 8” high! We voted on which display we liked best in several categories and the chefs were honored with certificates.
Each day onboard Queen Victoria, the following are consumed:
120 pizzas
800 scones
10,000 meals
5,000 cups of tea
1,000 bottles/cans of beer
850 soft drinks
700 bottles of water
600 bottles of wine!

Worked on the next excursion we have in Auckland later this week, worked on the computer (I am pulling my hair out trying to get connected with certain websites!) and read about Tonga. Dinnertime found another tablemate getting sick with a cold (everyone seems to have had one or getting one) and then enjoyed the Cunard singers in a nice concert and UK comedian, John Evans.

For this segment from LA to Sydney Australia, we have the following citizens onboard:
Angola, Australia (195), Austria, Belgium, Canada (98), Chile, Croatia, Denmark, Estonia, France, Germany (192), Greece, Honduras, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Luxemburg, Mexico, New Zealand, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Trinidad & Tobago, UK (776), US (406), Venezuela and Zimbabwe. I love the international mix!

We LOSE tomorrow due to the international dateline. We go to bed tonight, Saturday, and wake up on Monday morning -- same time but a day later. This is easier to understand when you fly since you gain the day on the way home. This time we are really losing the day…

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Apia, Western Samoa!

Friday, February 6, 2009 – Apia (the capital), Western Samoa – bright, sunny, hot, breezy!
”Catch the bird, but watch for the wave” – old Samoan proverb

Slept late and enjoyed a wonderful solo swim in the sun! It was ideal swimming and then I sat outside for ½ hour and looked out at the sea. We could see the mountains of Western Samoa ahead so hurried to eat and dress. What a spoiled life to have room service for breakfast and lunch as we sit outside on the balcony to watch as we pull in to port!! And it was a maiden call so they had the band playing to greet us and the native dancers with fire and drums. It was spectacular!

The Samoa Islands, which include the independent nation of Samoa (since 1962) and the territory of American Samoa, are 300 miles wide and are 2485 miles southwest of Hawaii. Nine western islands are in Samoa and the others are in American Samoa.
A series of volcanoes formed the island of Upolu, where we were, which is 39 miles long and 13 miles wide. With a population of approx. 177,000, there are 47 members in the Parliament and two parties: Human Rights Protection and Christian Democrat. Their only export is fresh fish, copra (dried coconut meat) and coconut cream, kava, noni juice and beer.

The foundation of society is the extended family unit, or aiga. An aiga can include thousands of relatives and in-laws. In this communal system, everything is owned collectively by the aiga; the individual has a right to use that property but does not personally own it. Their money is the tala and sene.

We were five in our private taxi minivan for $24 each for the 4.5 hour tour. Our personal tour -- to do as we pleased – as long as we followed my itinerary! We headed through Apia along Beach Road past the many shops and government buildings and churches for a stop at Aggie Grey’s Hotel, where Gene had stayed about 25 years ago. The hotel opened in 1933 and became a renowned club in the South Pacific for American servicemen stationed in Samoa during WWII.

On to the beautiful island plantation home of Robert Louis Stevenson, and his wife Fannie. It is now a world-class museum located directly below the famous author’s Mt. Vaea burial site. You can see the Great hall where he could entertain 100, his library, the Smoking Room, the only fireplace in Samoa and the numerous bedrooms. They had a statue of an old King who was a cannibal and told the history of how he “ate” two people a day from different villages. Oh yech; thankfully that habit was stopped many years ago.

There are many churches scattered around the island thanks to John Williams, who brought Christianity to Samoa and many more South Pacific islands. We drove over the Cross Island road, stopped at the Bahai’ Faith temple (one of six in the world) and through the Togitogiga National Forest. Le Mafa pass is 1700 feet about sea level with breathtaking views of the northern shorelines and scenic drive through lush green forests, waterfalls, plantations and traditional Samoan villages. We passed several villages and schools. The children were all in uniform and headed home, school hours were 8:30-2:30 and they can drive at 17. Most families own a car. The homes were open-air; no doors or windows, just posts and floor. Furniture was scattered around in various room formations. Some houses had nothing in them! Water was collected in concrete tanks and the family dead were buried in front of the house in beautifully decorated above-ground graves, sealed with concrete. It was a fascinating drive through the villages to see the taro root, coconut trees, sugarcane fields and lush countryside.

Sopo’aga Botanical Gardens and Falls was a nice stop. The falls drop into an old volcanic crater and there were a variety of indigenous plants with medicinal qualities. They showed us how they cook in the “umu”, the stone oven above ground.

We headed up the coast passing the most beautiful coves and inlets where you could see the waves crashing on the reefs far out to sea. The “old” market was the final stop for handicrafts of coconut, shells and woven reeds. Upon our return to the ship, we were entertained by fire dancers on the pier. It was a wonderful afternoon!

Impressions
“Imagine an island with the most perfect climate in the world, tropical yet almost always cooled by a breeze from the sea. No malaria or other fevers. No dangerous snakes or insects. Fish for the catching, and fruits for the plucking. And an earth and sky and sea of immortal loveliness. What more could civilization give?”
Rupert Brooke, 1914

Quick change for dinner (no tie required tonight) and computer work and Bettine Clemens, a flautist.

Friday, February 6, 2009

final day at sea before Samoa - Feb 5

Thursday, February 5, 2009
Final approach to Western Samoa! Day at sea - 80 degrees and breezy
Swam and the pool was sparkling clean, the sun was shining brilliantly and the temperature was absolutely perfect!! Worked on the cocktail party, attended an EXCEL computer class and had a few meetings.

The cocktail party was from 5-6 PM and we had 54 people show up! It was a very lively group and it was nice to meet the new members who joined in LA. Great success!

Lobster and scallops for dinner and HARD TIMES by Charles Dickens was presented in the Royal Court Theatre. As I was about to get onto the elevator, I heard a young girl speaking Danish and I jumped out to speak to her. She and her sister are 9 and 11 and they are with their father on the ship and live in Vejle, Denmark! AND he owned the gas station in the town I lived in for the year!!! They have been on the ship since mid-December and will be onboard for 88 days before returning to Denmark. We had a great time talking and it was great practice for my Danish -- the girls were impressed and I was too! They are just beginning to learn English and we hope to get together for tea soon. They are in the “Queens Grill”, the highest category stateroom, so we would be able to see those public areas also.

Worked on the computer and RECEIVED AN INVITATION FOR A WORLD CRUISE DINNER IN SINGAPORE at the Shangri-La Hotel hosted by Carol Marlow, the CEO of Cunard!! Wow. A really special private formal dinner…My first thought: transporting 18 buses of people to and from the ship to the hotel and coordinating wheelchairs and walkers?! This will be a real feat for a memorable event! What fun…but it is not until March 19, so we have time to prepare for this one!

Are you a Pollywog or Shellback???

Wednesday, February 04, 2009 – Crossing the Line Ceremony! Are you a Pollywog??
Crossing the 180th Meridian of Longitude
We are now 6 hours behind Delaware time/Eastern time.

The Crossing the Line Ceremony is intended to commemorate a sailor’s first crossing of the equator. The ceremony owes its origin to ancient pagan rites connected with propitiation of the Greek sea god Poseidon, known to the Romans as Neptune. In classical times it was the custom to mark the rounding of a significant headland by making a sacrificial offering to the appropriate deity. In more recent history, the ceremony as we know it today was originally seen as a test for seasoned sailors to ensure that their new shipmates were capable of handling long, rough trips to sea. Sailors who have already crossed the line, are nicknamed Shellbacks, and those who have not are known as Pollywogs.

“His Imperial Majesty, Neptune of the Deep, his Queen and Seaweed Court of Mermaids, Able Aides and all other Swimmers-on, will Board Queen Victoria at 11:30am, today, Wednesday 4th February. This historical tradition dates back to the 14th century. Since it had been decided that the world was round and not flat, the Spanish and Portuguese explorers ventured further south and west without fear of sailing off the edge of the world. The excitement of sailing into the southern part of the world became a special event commemorated in a quasi religious/mythological play involved King Neptune and his court who were ‘crossing the line’ for the first time. These initiations took on various forms, some of which were highly dangerous. ‘Pollywogs’ would be coated with various nasty liquids found in the bilge of the ship and then suspended by the ankles and plunged into the sea. The modern day ‘Crossing the Line Ceremony’ has changed little for hundreds of years and in fact contains a speech by King Neptune which was originally made in 1393.”

Swam and watched as the crew prepared the Pavilion pool for the noontime ceremony for the Pollywogs and Shellbacks. What is this ceremony? Deck chairs were re-arranged and the trolleys and towels were prepared. We agreed to be inducted in the “milder” of the two inductions and were led in front of Neptune’s Court – King Neptune, (a male) Queen with huge balloons for breasts, mermaids in slinky costumes and long blonde hair (the dancers from the production shows), and pirates in full costume. We were booed and slapped on the neck with a dead fish! Yech!

But this was nothing compared to the treatment the others received!!! They had mixtures of all kinds of food slathered all over their bodies and hair --- spaghetti, raw eggs, sausages, jello, melted chocolate!, pudding, tomatoes, cut-up fresh fruit and vegetables (at least they were ripe ones!). It was disgusting!!! And they were allowed to jump into the pool (MY POOL!!) and clean off. It was grouse.

We did receive an official certificate of the crossing and they did perform a very thorough cleaning of the pool. Thank goodness!

We talked to the World Cruise Hostess, Gaynor, met with some friends, worked on the cocktail party and readied for dinner. The entertainment tonight was Comedy Juggler, EDGE, and Mark Adams, singer. I also stayed up to watch the 10:30 PM showing of “Indiana Jones and the Crystal Skull”!

OK, signing off, your newest Shellback, Luisa

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Captain's talk

Tuesday, February 3, 2009 – sea day heading to Apia
Mostly blue skies and slightly cloudy – warm!
Swam at 8 and it was wonderful – only three of us in the pool and they left and I had it all to myself! It is one floor above the stateroom so it is an easy walk up, through the electric doors and out into the morning air.

There is an induction ceremony for those crossing the equator for the first time via ship…we signed up for tomorrow’s event. 10AM discussion on white and gold pearls from the South Sea. 11AM computer class on Adobe Photo shop “layers” and the Captain’s informal talk on life at sea. Captain Paul Wright is very talkative and has a great sense of humor.

Ship facts: When we transit the Panama Canal, there is only a 2 foot clearance on each side of the ship. 26 feet of the ship are under water and the ship is 180 feet above water. This is a diesel/electric ship and absolutely no paper charts are used; they are all electronic! Here are a few of his comments:
- He was piloting the QE2 into the NY harbor on July 4, 2000. The harbor was full and the ship is not easily handled. They had three tugs pushing her and a senior NY pilot onboard when one of the back tugs failed to push. They were drifting perilously close to a Japanese war ship and did end up hitting the Japanese ship! Being the gentleman he is, he sent the Staff Captain over to meet with the Captain of the vessel (he then admitted he also went along! – his sense of humor!) and they found out a very high ranking Japanese Admiral was onboard also! They both apologized and the Admiral just stared at them. They kept apologizing and finally the Admiral spoke, “It is an honor to be kissed by a Queen.”

- He lives in Cornwall, England and is away from home frequently as he is the Master of the Queen Victoria. The residents of his town are not aware of what he does for a living. He is “gone three months at a time and they still don’t know what I do for a living. They probably think I’ve been in jail or something.” One day he went down to the dock near his home and saw a man in a small boat. He mentioned he was thinking of buying a boat himself and wanted to know if the man could give him any advice. The man said, “Don’t get too big a boat. You don’t want to embarrass yourself.”

Lunch again with friends and I went outside to lay in the sun!! It was wonderful. I found a nice niche on the 10th deck in the corner with a full view ahead of the seas (and we are still rolling across the Pacific!!) and a great breeze coming up under the windbreak.
I read about Western Samoa and slept! Then I ran back into the pool and the waves were crashing much harder than this morning. It was quite refreshing. Also managed some loads of laundry!

Formal night tonight and those who joined in LA had their Captain’s party. We had a nice dinner with the harpist playing the background. The entertainment was Adam Johnson playing classical piano of Brahms, Prokofiev and Hungarian rhapsodies (Dad would have loved it!) and Kenny Martyn on the clarinet playing Benny Goodman.
Slept rocking to the ship – the elevator feels like it is going sideways as it goes up and down!

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Monday - at sea on the way to Apia


Monday, February 2, 2009 – At sea en route to Apia, Western Samoa
Cloudy and rolling most of the day!
Nautical Terms: The ship rolled almost all day (side to side movement) and it was not pitching (lengthways up and down movements). It is amazing with the size of this ship that we still feel the rolling…I can only imagine the water in the pool today!

My drama class was first. Today I played an Olympic athlete whose sport was to open and close doors! Oh yes, doors. And I had a “trainer” being interviewed and testifying how he trained me to win this sport! It was good fun and good training but very silly!

Then country line dancing – we learned three or four dances. Quite an energetic group and there are so many people who show up for the dance classes.

Lunch with new friends from FL and then a classical piano concert by Adam Johnson. Missed the “Life and Career of Ingrid Bergman” and Professor Harvey Mann’s (photographer and writer) talk on “The Big Cat of Africa” and Dr. Paula Smith’s speech on “Captain Cook” (my idol!). Too much…way too much to choose from!!!!
Worked a while and then to the fitness center for my wonderful machines and was able to catch a re-play of a talk from yesterday on the elephants in Africa. Dinner and a juggling experience by “Edge” who has been on Jay Leno and Good Morning America. And still rolling as I head to bed!

Honolulu!

Sunday, February 1, 2009 – Honolulu Hawaii!
We were up at 6 in order to get in a full day and wanted to see Honolulu as we approached by sea. With the mountains and sea, we know it is a beautiful sight from the air. Before the sun rose at 7:45, we could see the lights twinkling ahead and the outline of the mountains. Enjoyed breakfast on the deck in the dark as we slowly approached Honolulu; it was so pretty. We were greeted with hula dancers and live music pierside! Docked at the Aloha Tower, which used to be the tallest building in Hawaii, the area is now a shopping mall!

Honolulu, the capital and largest community in Hawaii, means “place of shelter” and is on the island of Oahu with approx. 900,000 inhabitants. Oahu, the third largest of the Hawaiian islands, was first settled by the original Polynesian migrants to the archipelago in the 12th century. Kamehameha I conquered Oahu and moved his royal court from the Island of Hawaii (there is an island called Hawaii and the state is also named Hawaii) to Waikiki in 1803. The court relocated in 1809 to downtown Honolulu. Captain Brown of England was the first foreigner to sail into the Honolulu Harbor, in 1794. Honolulu is the current and historic center for state government, with the State Capitol, Iolani Palace (the nation’s only royal palace built in 1882!), City Hall, the State Library and the statue of King Kamehameha I. Iolani Palace had electricity and telephones lines installed even before the White House.

Easy off and on the ship in downtown Honolulu (the commercial center, as compared to Waikiki, the center for tourists) and we took the local bus ($2 one way) out to Pearl Harbor. We had visited the Arizona Memorial but had not been to the USS Bowfin or the USS Missouri. You could easily spend an entire day for all the museums and ships in the complex! Pearl Harbor is a simple embayment, west of Honolulu. Much of the harbor and surrounding lands are a U.S. Navy deep water naval base, the headquarters of the U.S. Pacific Fleet. It was the attack here on December 7, 1941 that brought the United States into World War II.

The USS Bowfin, “the Pearl Harbor Avenger”, was also used in the miniseries, “War and Remembrance”. The museum supplies audio guides as you walk through to hear actual stories from the crew. They even slept in the same room as the torpedoes! The sub is only 16 feet in diameter, packed with ladders, hatches and obstacles, like the naval version of a jungle gym. The submarine sank 44 enemy ships during the course of her nine war patrols and now serves as the centerpiece honoring all submarines. There is a beautiful park of 52 marble stones remembering each of the subs which did not make it back, and their eternal crew of over 3500 submariners.

The USS Missouri, the “Mighty Mo”, was the last battleship ever made and hosted the final act of WWII, the signing of the Terms of Surrender, the surrender of Japanese forces. There are three massive gun turrets with three guns in each turret. Each round weighs either 1900 or 2700 lbs. and is capable of firing up to 23 miles away. There are four Vulcan Phalanx Weapons systems and 32 Tomahawk Anti-surface missiles. We climbed up and down and were amazed at how large and complex is the interior of a battleship. There is even a Kamikaze Attack Site! On April 11, 1945, a kamikaze was able to penetrate the Missouri’s formidable antiaircraft defense before crashing on the starboard (right) side of the fantail. The ship served two tours of duty during the Korean War and was again modernized and participated in Operator Desert Shield and Desert Storm. She was decommissioned in 1992 and now stands watch over the fallen of Pearl Harbor.

Other sites to explore on Oahu: Polynesian Cultural Village, Diamond Head crater, Hanauma Bay for snorkeling and the Halona Blowhole, National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific (Punchbowl Crater) cemetery with over 44,000 U.S. war veterans, surfing at the North Shore, Pacific Aviation Museum, Sea Life Park, Waimea Valley Audubon Center and the expansive and beautiful beach of Waikiki!

Shopping and sitting under the palm trees calling home for a few hours finished off the time in Honolulu. It was perfect weather and the restful. And tiring…after a buffet dinner and the show of Mark Adams impersonating Dean Martin (one of my favorites!), I collapsed. Missed the Hawaiian Deck Party under the stars (regret that!!) but slept 12 hours straight, so I must have needed the sleep!