Thursday, January 27, 2011

Easter island, Pitcairn Island and sea days with no internet connection!

Sunday, Jan 16 – at sea in the Pacific Ocean
Guest Chefs Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein are onboard for special presentations. Slept late, walked and exercised. Met people all over the ship and kept stopping and talking and accomplished little except enjoying myself! Gene is not well and has been resting. The other two men at the dinner table are also ill! The ship is pitching slightly and some people are commenting but we are fine. I tried to read outside but kept meeting people…. Hard to find my little corner for some “down time”.

Went to a meeting for the Holland America Line Chorale – I’m going to sing again! We will be singing a medley of songs from the 20s, 30s and 40s and begin tomorrow.
Martin Beaumont was the comedian. Worked on the computer while listening to the Neptune band.

Things I did not do today (!!):
Protestant Sunday worship at 8AM, Fitness class, watercolor, Jewish Journey, Dance Class, Tai Chi, TV production of Good Morning Amsterdam, Digital workshops, travel guide presentation, bridge classes, Explorations speaker, onboard games, spa, roulette, bingo, How to Write a cookbook, team trivia, Acupuncture seminar, ping pong, duplicate bridge, indoor cycling, writing seminar, arts and crafts, Pilates, Office talk on Environmental issues at sea, afternoon tea, chorale, stretch class, karaoke and Latin nights music!!

Monday, Jan 17 - at sea
Tai chi – I am enjoying it but the steps are not easy and the routines are rather long. I do feel the resistance so I think that is good. The further out we get into the ocean with no land around us and no satellites above us, the less contact we have with internet. Lunch with client. Ran around all afternoon trying to work out some issues.
Entertainment was Katzenjammer, 2 pianists from England who play together/four hands. We’ve seen them before and enjoyed them. About 70 degrees. Worked in the Crowe’s Nest to the wonderful music of Station Band. Ship is under quarantine – no self-serve in the buffet, no salt and pepper shakers out, Purell all over the ship, no library books can be circulated, no games can be taken out…you don’t realize how many activities are curtailed during these days. We have to wait until 48 hours after a decrease in the number of people visiting medical before we can resume normal activity.

“Life is like sailing. You can use any wind to go in any direction.” - Robert Brault

Tuesday, Jan 18 – at sea
Tai Chi and walked on outdoor deck. Met with clients to plan their next voyage; lunch with client who has designed the TVs we have in our hospitals! He did an overland journey to Macchu Pichu and has already produced a 53 minute video of his trip!! Tea in the Crow’s Nest with another client; wonderful view from the full length windows on top of the ship. Went to medical to ask a question for a client.
There are the most beautiful flower arrangements onboard. They are changed every two days and they are creative with exotic flowers and absolutely stunning – quite impressive.

Formal night – only three of us at the table. Oceans 5 Formal night with decks of cards all over the ship. We were given a map of the world, pencil and ruler to mark the path as we circumnavigate. Were asked to host an afternoon tour of Easter Island and we questioned whether we should do it but it lists the same locations we were going to on our own and it saves us $189 per person. We should be able to have the morning to ourselves in the town of Hanga Roa.
Great entertainment – Motown by The Horizons.
“Anywhere is paradise; it’s up to you.” - Unknown

Wednesday, Jan 19 – at sea
The Pacific Ocean got its name

Aerobics, XXXXXXXXXXXxx

We are losing satellite reception. Fine with me, but others are distressed! No TV (what a shame!!), no internet. Satellites beam TV signals only toward huge land masses and a ship just does not qualify! We have a 3.5 meter satellite dish on a gyro to constantly hold the signal but we sail too far from land, we lost the signal.
“Turn your face to the sun and the shadow falls behind you.” - Maori Proverb

Thursday, Jan 20 - Easter Island (Rapa Nui or Isla de Pascua), Chile – World Heritage Site
The island is 2237 miles west of the Chilean coast and is one of the most isolated in the world. It was formed by three extinct volcanoes and discovered by Jacob Roggeveen (a Dutchman) on Easter Day in 1722 and is 15 x 7 miles. Population was 3700 people about 3 years ago and has now swelled to over 6000.

The local oral tradition claims that a chief Hotu Matu’a arrived on the island in one or two large canoes with his wife and extended family, believed to have been Polynesian. Literature suggests the island was settled around 300-400 AD, scientists claim 700-800 AD and another radiocarbon study puts the dates at 1200 AD.

A visit to this island has been on my list for a long time. We tried to fly here from Santiago, Chile, many years ago but the flights were full. Five hour flight and not inexpensive! Found out there are deals from Ecuador to Easter Island also….

As the sun rose at 7:00, many of us were out on deck. And we could see the waves crashing around the island. We readied ourselves with baited breath to host two buses each. It was up to the Captain to see if the stop was possible. And then the 8:00 announcement by the Captain…no way. Groans, worried faces, disappointment…yech. It was just not safe for us to proceed ashore in tenders.

BUT about a ½ hour later, he announced they had researched another landing spot on the north part of the island and so we sailed there (1-1/2 hours) to see if that option would work. Thankfully, he was not giving up. Upon arrival to Anakena Beach, we were all out on deck with binoculars trying to figure out the surf and see what we could see on the beach, the only swimmable beach on the island. The tenders went out, the Captain himself went ashore to see if it was safe and YES!!!!, it was. Yippee! We dropped our 17,637 pound anchor and were grounded for the day!

Lines quickly formed for tenders and we cruised over the most beautiful blue waters to the next docked tender! We walked across one docked tender (like crossing over a river boat) and then stepped down (a steep step down) onto a pontoon and then up on a cement ledge to get to land. And the Chilean officials were there to greet us along with the Immigration and Agricultural inspectors - no fruit, vegetables or plants allowed.

And what a perfect day it was. Sunshine. Few clouds. 75 degrees. Small buses of 15 passengers. One road around the island. Great.

We drove into the only town of Hanga Roa and to the ceremonial site of Tahai. We saw three restored platforms and the only statue (Moai) with its eyes re-inserted. The other statues’ eyes had all been either stolen or removed so to see one with the eyes, is quite an eerie feeling. They face toward the island, not out toward the sea. And they are tall, but honestly, not quite as tall as you imagine. But still, I was quite impressed. And just tickled pink to be here!!!!

The view up the coastline was dreamlike. Waves crashing, blue waters, statues facing inland…wow.
Easter Island – here I am!!

We had to drive through the small town and passed the small airport (seven flights a week to Santiago Chile or Papeete Tahiti). Would have loved to wander the streets to see the supermarket and small shops. We were supposed to dock in town so if there is another visit, there will be time to explore.

Our next stop was up the east coast to the quarry at Rano Raraku where the Moai were carved. There are still 397 statues in different states of completion on the slopes of the extinct volcano. Some were 55-65 feet tall, with about a 1/3 of them under the earth. Several were still embedded in the side of the volcano and many were standing upright. The carving tools were also on display, along with many craft vendors. From one view point, you had a breathtaking view of 15 statues (Tongariki) at the water’s edge with the curving coastline and waves crashing around them.

We explored Tongariki, where 15 statues have been re-erected with the help of a Japanese crane company. The statues are actually complete torsos, the figures kneeling on bent knees with their hands over their stomachs.

We continued back to the Moai near Anakena Beach, look at the various crafts and then hurried back to the ship on the tenders. I wanted to swim in that incredible water. It was after 5:30 and the sun was just as strong as could be. It was magnificent! All the locals and visitors were having a great time. You could see to the bottom and the waves were gently. I had a wonderful time! We met a nice young man (photographer) and his mother (head of a small hospital near Santiago) who were there for 5 days and enjoyed their company.

Had a nice dinner in the buffet with friends, watched the beautiful sunset over Easter Island and
Johnny O, an English entertainer, played his Electronic Wind Instrument (EWI), sounding like a trombone, flute, clarinet, trumpet…in all styles of music.

Friday, Jan 21 – at sea
Beautiful day at sea. Nothing in site around us. Tai Chi class. Quarantine lifted!! No internet reception.
Great lecture on Captain Bligh, Fletcher Christian and Pitcairn Island. There are only 43 inhabitants on the island (3x2 miles) and we look forward to their visit to the ship on Sunday!!
Took an afternoon nap, helped clients, arranged future meetings, group luncheon, not feeling 100% but adusting. Entertainer was Cheryl Sinclair, an English vocalist. I worked on the atrium for several hours but no internet reception. We moved our clocks back and are now an hour behind DE time.


Saturday, Jan 22 – at sea
Today we sailed straight toward sunset! 277 degrees.
Lecures: Hellions of the Sea lanes! Women pirates in the Pacific and beyond.
Polynesian Afternoon Tea – how civilized!

Entertainer is Andy Bunger, a multi-instrumentalist.
Movie: Agatha; pretty good fictional movie about her 11 day disappearance.
Beautiful day with the weather. Much time spent on clients.

Sunday, Jan 23 – Pitcairn Island, one of the most remote in the world, on BOUNTY DAY
Beautiful weather. Island is 2 x 1 mile big with approx. 76 residents, most with the last names of Christian or Warren. These are the descendants of the Captain Bligh/Fletcher Christian mutiny on The Bounty real-life story. Synopsis: After a long layover in Tahiti, where the men took on Tahitian women and did not want to leave, Captain Bligh was overthrown by Fletcher Christian and some crew. Bligh was set to sea with 18 of his crew, who chose to be cast to sea with him. Fletcher had the Bounty ship and after sailing aimlessly, they came upon Pitcairn island where they landed and created their community. After existing for two years on the island, in celebration that they had found a home, the community burned the Bounty (ship). Today marked the 221st anniversary of that burning and the islanders usually celebrate by creating a ship and burning it in the sea. Since they only had two week notice of our arrival, they had all been working feverishly to create more crafts and carvings so they did not have time to build the replica Bounty, thus no ceremony!

The islanders came out to the AMSTERDAM in their longboat, which had so many handicrafts you would never believe the people and crafts could fit in the boat. The hill was steep and it appeared as if it were half of a crafter. We could see a few ranch homes from the ship; they use ATVs to get around the dirt roads. There is one school and they have a teacher from New Zealand. There were some Norfolk pine trees and others, from which they carve. Post office and store are open 3 times a week for approx. 2 hours each time. Homes do not have locks; keys are not used. They have a policeman, who was just married on Jan 11th; the church is the Seventh Day Adventists with two services on Saturday. There is one boy of high school age. They have a vacation island (about 300 nautical miles away) and they all go as a family and cook and relax. Each family takes a turn cooking dinner and they share their food. They have electricity for 5 hours in the morning and 5 hours in the evening. Internet is slow but available; they have two TV channels – Turner Classic Movies and CNN. They have an elected mayor and a board of advisors. Every three months a supply ship arrives from New Zealand with staples for the home, gasoline, school, buildings, boats – can you imagine your shopping list if you were only able to shop when you left the island??? They use their radios to call the nearby cargo vessels in a medical emergency. There is no airstrip. Departure is only via boat. They have to sail to another island and then fly to wherever. Life is quite different from how we know it.
www.visitpitcairn.pn
They set up tables around the pool and sold their wares – T-shirts, wooden carved bowls and engravings, post cards and stamps, pearl and shell jewelry, caps, honey (known to be some of the best in the world and sold in London when they can get it there),

We went to the crew church service and were actually requested to leave by the pastor! A first. We were totally surprised and the next day we heard more about it from the crew. What a wrong way to get the crew interested in Christianity. We were stunned and tried to forget it.

Monday, Jan 24 – At sea
Four exercise classes, meeting with medical and passenger took up a lot of the time, met with the shore excursion manager and assistant for our group tours, went to a computer class which did not help me accomplish what I needed, Melvyn Foster guest lecturer gave a great presentation on Captain Cook and his three phenomenal journeys of discovery and had the singers and dancers in “Broadway’s Grand Voyage”. Formal night with Mutiny on the Bounty Theme. Crew and staff had the entire dining room fitted out to be a pirate ship and their costumes were great! Swords, hats, belts and coats just like the pirates!

Enjoyed the old movie with Marlon Brando, Trevor Howard and Richard Harris but what a digression from the truth! You would think the Bligh family would have won a huge lawsuit for defamation of character on Hollywood’s portrayal of Bligh! We were so upset about the movie, it took us awhile to unwind before we get actually sleep! Fletcher Christian led a mutiny against William Bligh and cast him adrift with 18 of his loyal men but there is still conflict on why.

Sailing 1, 188 nautical miles between Pitcairn Island and Papeete Tahiti in approx. 72 hours with a speed of approx. 16.7 miles per hour. We can sail at a top speed of 25 miles per hour with two propulsion motors and five diesel engines.

Tuesday, Jan 25 – at sea
Exercise class with a twist – we went up on the jogging deck and did our arm push-ups while leaning on the banister facing to the sea and ran two laps, beside the other exercises! Walked and did Tai chi also. Spent a lot of time with a passenger and the front office and ate way too much! “High seas/High society – The Great Ocean Liners” lecture on the great liners sailing between NY and London/Europe in the 20th century – love that lecture! Those ships are the pre-cursors of the cruising industry.

Variety show of Ken and Casey (man and his duck), Andy Bunger musician and singer Cheryl Sinclair.
Went to the movie “Unforgiven” about the American West.