Thursday, March 05, 2009 – Nagasaki, Japan! Cloudy and 58 degrees
US$1 = 78 yen; population 450,000
It was a beautiful morning arrival on the Urakamigawa River into the Nagasaki harbor as we sailed under the Megami Ohashi bridge with only a 27 feet clearance! I’ve never seen a bridge with so little support under it! Such a sleek underside and beautiful suspension lines above…reminded me a little of the C&D Canal. It was a maiden call and we had a tug boat shooting plumes of water ahead of us. And this time the water turned colors! Yellow, green, blue, red…
After docking at Matsugae Pier, we had a very friendly group of mature women meet us in their kimonos for pictures, a band played and they had a visitor information booth, money exchange, bus ticket office and post office within 20 steps of getting off the ship! What organization! They were a huge help to me in shipping a box C.O.D. for a client and had the shipping company meet me within 10 minutes of my asking!!!
Nagasaki was the center of European influence in the 16th through the 19th centuries. It became a major Imperial Japanese Navy base during the First Sino-Japanese War and Russo-Japanese War. It is a place of hills rising from the deep, U-shaped harbor with boats and ferries chugging back and forth, of houses perched on terraced slopes, of small streets and distinctive neighborhoods. Its harbor remains one of Japan’s most active; it is home to the Mitsubishi shipyards.
Many from the ship decided to venture out on their own and headed to the streetcar for the Peace Fountain in the Peace Park. It was quite easy and inexpensive. We purchased the day pass and were able to communicate enough to know when to get off! Streetcars have been hauling passengers since 1915 and some of the cars are vintage! The conductor wears white gloves, sits on a seat the size of about a foot long and wide and speaks ever-so softly into a microphone to inform you of every little detail of the journey (as far as we could tell!). The stops were numbered also so if you could not decipher the names, you at least knew the number!
The Peace Park is dedicated to the many citizens who died from the nuclear attack on the city. Many countries have donated statues in the beautiful park and there is a 30-foot tall Buddha-like Statue of Peace as the centerpiece. “He holds out his hand in an appeal to human beings to realize that war is utter madness. At the same time he points heavenward ostensibly reminding us of horrors that human beings have often unleashed upon each other. A black box at the base contains the names of the victims in the 1945 bombing. Each year, the entire list is read aloud. Nearly a third of the city’s residents died instantly, and another third were seriously injured.”
In Hypocenter Park, a black monolith marks the exact epicenter of the explosion at 11:02 AM on August 9, 1945, three days after Hiroshima. The intended target was the nearby shipyards. A ghostly, charred section of the original Urakami Cathedral has also been preserved. The blast killed an estimated 75,000, while 75,000 more were injured in its wake.
The Atomic Bomb Museum displays Nagasaki before and after the explosion. Photographs, artifacts, videos and dioramas VIVIDLY re-create the event. A clock, frozen at the moment the bomb exploded, is one of the most poignant items. Simple objects – a melted bottle, the charred remains of a kimono – as well as photos of victims provide stark evidence of the bomb’s destructive powers. “The museum is by no means pleasant, but something every concerned individual should see.”
We wandered over to the professional baseball stadium and they were playing!! Must have been a practice game as there were only two people in the stands at 10:30 AM so Gene had a nice chat with two players and we watched a few innings. Very nice stadium and the scoreboard uses our letters: S, B and O for strikes, balls and outs! When they put the score in, it is in Japanese and English.
We were back on the streetcar headed to the Sofuku-ji Temple, the city’s most famous temple. Distinctly Chinese with its Ming architecture, it dates back to 1629. It is one of the three largest Chinese places of worship in Nagasaki. It was founded with the help of local Chinese residents by a monk. There is a gigantic cooking pot that stands enigmatically in the temple grounds used to make gruel to feed over 3,000 people each day during one of Nagasaki’s worst famines in 1682.
We continued walking past a very high class shopping and residential district. There were shopping arcades, restaurants, upscale condo buildings and small shops creating a very nice community atmosphere. One of the most photographed sights is the modest but curious Spectacles Bridge (Megane-bashi), a Chinese bequest to the city. Built by the Chinese Zen priest Mozi in 1634, it remains the oldest stone bridge in Japan. The curve of the bridge reflected in the Nakashima River resembles a pair of spectacles!
We meandered through the streets and came upon a nice fruit store with the largest grapefruit we have ever seen – like a basketball! A man then began to talk to us and took it upon himself to be our guide! We went up a steep tall elevator and then up another one for a great view of the harbor and ship. We were near the Glover Gardens, were a number of Western-style houses were built during the Meiji Period (1868-1912) on a hill overlooking the city and harbor. There are nine Meiji-ear buildings and homes on lushly landscaped grounds. Most famous is Glover Mansion, Japan’s oldest Western-style house, built in 1863 and romanticized as the home of Madame Butterfly, the fictitious, tragic heroine of Puccini’s opera.
Down the hill we walked, to the Oura Catholic Church, which is said to be the oldest Gothic-style structure in Japan. It is dedicated to the 26 Christian martyrs who were crucified in the 16th century and had some beautiful examples of stained glass.
As we kept walking downhill, we were passing the tourist street of shops. Many different varieties of sweets and snacks and no postcards! It was beginning to drizzle and then stopped. We headed back to the ship and watched the drum band play as we sailed away.
The waterfront was full of people waving at us. The band was playing LOUDLY on the drums. There was a nice simple sign “Please come back to Nagasaki again” being held by the mature Japanese women in their kimonos. It was a heartfelt welcome and farewell today. I even had tears run down my cheeks as we sailed away.
After snacking, I had some work to do before dinner and was never able to get properly dressed but I showed up anyway! (oh dear…) More work after dinner and we enjoyed an American piano player, Linda Gentille.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
March 4 - sea day
Wednesday, March 4, 2009 – at sea –
Did a lot of emails and worked on some details from the party last night before having a computer class, watching a close-up magic show in the Grand Lobby and then a nice lunch with friends. Then I skipped the next computer class to finish up some work and headed to the gym. Had a really good workout and then decided that since I was so wet, I might as well swim. It was cloudy and cool and with those weather conditions there was no one else in the pool. I really enjoyed it and then I enjoyed the hot tub. Hurried to dress for dinner in the specialty restaurant tonight – Italian. Very nicely presented and then enjoyed a variety show of the magician Palladino and the piano playing of John Christie.
Did a lot of emails and worked on some details from the party last night before having a computer class, watching a close-up magic show in the Grand Lobby and then a nice lunch with friends. Then I skipped the next computer class to finish up some work and headed to the gym. Had a really good workout and then decided that since I was so wet, I might as well swim. It was cloudy and cool and with those weather conditions there was no one else in the pool. I really enjoyed it and then I enjoyed the hot tub. Hurried to dress for dinner in the specialty restaurant tonight – Italian. Very nicely presented and then enjoyed a variety show of the magician Palladino and the piano playing of John Christie.
Ensemble Cocktail party
Tuesday, March 03, 2009 – sea day and our next cocktail party!
Misty and then brilliantly sunny
Had much to accomplish this morning and started out with a great effort and rush but then quickly slowed down. Guess I don’t feel THAT great yet…Lots of paperwork and consulting as we think we have the incorrect port for arrival in to Shanghai and we have our group excursion there so that must be corrected, if need be. Met a friend in the buffet and we had a quick cup of tea and then I went back for a short nap.
Lunch in the restaurant with friends from Ohio, whose brother is also onboard, and he lives in Arlington, VA. Well, dear friends in Delaware, it turns out they are cousins to Governor/Lt. Governor David Buckson and remember with very fond memories their summer vacations in Townsend, DE!!! What a small world! When Gov. Buckson was in office, they recalled the story of when the Governor’s vehicle, (Car #1 license plate) got a flat tire on I-95 outside of Wilmington on the way to give a speech. The Sergeant/driver called the DE Department of Transportation to fix the flat tire and the Governor and cousin were transported in another state police vehicle to the speech. They remember the many trains passing through Townsend; they would count them and write down the train numbers. And today, I think the only train passing through is for the Rail to the Fair (when there is money in the budget for that event to happen). And we also found it interesting that Townsend is where my brother’s company is headquartered! They know the barber, remember the house where Governor’s Buckson’s mother lived across from the Fire Hall and other landmarks. I tried to gently advise them that growth has also come to that area of the state but I hope they can pass through soon and re-visit their childhood haunts. AND he worked for the New Zealand government to help make their railways profitable. He has been to New Zealand over 159 times! So he and Gene had much to discuss as Gene lived there for five years playing softball. It was a lively conversation so we can’t wait to continue to see what else we have in common!! And they are in my group…such a small world.
Ran back to work on the cocktail party details and then down to the Viennese Tea in the Queens Room. It was a very formal affair with a very elaborate display of ice carvings and sacher tortes and apple kuchen with vanilla sauce and all kinds of cookies and delicious pastries all being served by white-gloved attendants. It was lovely!! But no time to enjoy so we will have to hope they do it again! Had to get into formal dress and organize the cocktail party!
Up to the Hemispheres Lounge and I had everyone sit in five sections based on where they lived in the world. I hoped they would be able to meet new people and it seemed to work. We are now up to 53 people! And we were so lucky to have Captain Paul Wright, Staff Captain Nick Carter, Hotel Manager Jackie Hodgson, Chief Engineer Willy Robinson and Ronel, the Hotel Manager’s assistant attend! They made their personal rounds and it was so very much appreciated. We took pictures of everyone and talked about the Shanghai tour on Sunday and people ran off for dinner and more parties. We were late for dinner but still had time to eat two courses. The Captain had a formal reception for those who joined the ship in Sydney and then we enjoyed a production show called “A Stroke of Genius”. This group of dancers and singers depart in Hong Kong so they are quickly coming to the end of their contract. Delivered some notes, cleaned up the papers and headed to bed!!
Misty and then brilliantly sunny
Had much to accomplish this morning and started out with a great effort and rush but then quickly slowed down. Guess I don’t feel THAT great yet…Lots of paperwork and consulting as we think we have the incorrect port for arrival in to Shanghai and we have our group excursion there so that must be corrected, if need be. Met a friend in the buffet and we had a quick cup of tea and then I went back for a short nap.
Lunch in the restaurant with friends from Ohio, whose brother is also onboard, and he lives in Arlington, VA. Well, dear friends in Delaware, it turns out they are cousins to Governor/Lt. Governor David Buckson and remember with very fond memories their summer vacations in Townsend, DE!!! What a small world! When Gov. Buckson was in office, they recalled the story of when the Governor’s vehicle, (Car #1 license plate) got a flat tire on I-95 outside of Wilmington on the way to give a speech. The Sergeant/driver called the DE Department of Transportation to fix the flat tire and the Governor and cousin were transported in another state police vehicle to the speech. They remember the many trains passing through Townsend; they would count them and write down the train numbers. And today, I think the only train passing through is for the Rail to the Fair (when there is money in the budget for that event to happen). And we also found it interesting that Townsend is where my brother’s company is headquartered! They know the barber, remember the house where Governor’s Buckson’s mother lived across from the Fire Hall and other landmarks. I tried to gently advise them that growth has also come to that area of the state but I hope they can pass through soon and re-visit their childhood haunts. AND he worked for the New Zealand government to help make their railways profitable. He has been to New Zealand over 159 times! So he and Gene had much to discuss as Gene lived there for five years playing softball. It was a lively conversation so we can’t wait to continue to see what else we have in common!! And they are in my group…such a small world.
Ran back to work on the cocktail party details and then down to the Viennese Tea in the Queens Room. It was a very formal affair with a very elaborate display of ice carvings and sacher tortes and apple kuchen with vanilla sauce and all kinds of cookies and delicious pastries all being served by white-gloved attendants. It was lovely!! But no time to enjoy so we will have to hope they do it again! Had to get into formal dress and organize the cocktail party!
Up to the Hemispheres Lounge and I had everyone sit in five sections based on where they lived in the world. I hoped they would be able to meet new people and it seemed to work. We are now up to 53 people! And we were so lucky to have Captain Paul Wright, Staff Captain Nick Carter, Hotel Manager Jackie Hodgson, Chief Engineer Willy Robinson and Ronel, the Hotel Manager’s assistant attend! They made their personal rounds and it was so very much appreciated. We took pictures of everyone and talked about the Shanghai tour on Sunday and people ran off for dinner and more parties. We were late for dinner but still had time to eat two courses. The Captain had a formal reception for those who joined the ship in Sydney and then we enjoyed a production show called “A Stroke of Genius”. This group of dancers and singers depart in Hong Kong so they are quickly coming to the end of their contract. Delivered some notes, cleaned up the papers and headed to bed!!
Monday, March 2, 2009
March 2 - at sea
Monday, March 02, 2009 – at sea – sunny and brilliant day!
I felt great yesterday, but today my throat is sore and I sound terrible, I went to Dr. Peter Hawthorne, the Irish onboard doctor. I had no appointment and waited 15 minutes, and after $135, he told me my temperature was fine and my throat was sore. Like I didn’t know that. But anyway, he gave me medicine and I was on my way…but first I read the 1936 letter to passengers from the Social Hostess onboard Cunard’s Franconia. She went into explicit detail about the fabrics for the women’s and men’s clothing and how many dressy items to pack; very interesting!
We were invited to the Todd English restaurant for lunch with friends, and oh my goodness, did we eat a superb meal. Maine Crab cakes, lobster flatbread, seared salmon and sorbet and double lemon tart, all beautifully presented at a table by the sea. Wow.
Lunch lasted for 2.5 hours and then I met with other friends to figure out their day trips on the ports of call ahead of us. I enjoyed sitting on the balcony just before sunset and read the book for book club since I was told today, I am “not a nice person” as I have not returned the book yet! So I have to find time to read it quickly! Worked on files and did not go to dinner but I did go to the show tonight. John Christie, an Australian singer, gave a great singing and piano playing performance.
I felt great yesterday, but today my throat is sore and I sound terrible, I went to Dr. Peter Hawthorne, the Irish onboard doctor. I had no appointment and waited 15 minutes, and after $135, he told me my temperature was fine and my throat was sore. Like I didn’t know that. But anyway, he gave me medicine and I was on my way…but first I read the 1936 letter to passengers from the Social Hostess onboard Cunard’s Franconia. She went into explicit detail about the fabrics for the women’s and men’s clothing and how many dressy items to pack; very interesting!
We were invited to the Todd English restaurant for lunch with friends, and oh my goodness, did we eat a superb meal. Maine Crab cakes, lobster flatbread, seared salmon and sorbet and double lemon tart, all beautifully presented at a table by the sea. Wow.
Lunch lasted for 2.5 hours and then I met with other friends to figure out their day trips on the ports of call ahead of us. I enjoyed sitting on the balcony just before sunset and read the book for book club since I was told today, I am “not a nice person” as I have not returned the book yet! So I have to find time to read it quickly! Worked on files and did not go to dinner but I did go to the show tonight. John Christie, an Australian singer, gave a great singing and piano playing performance.
Saipan, Northern Mariana Islands
Sunday, March 1, 2009 – SAIPAN, capital of the U.S. Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands
Saipan is the fastest-growing island in Micronesia with golf courses, holiday resorts and duty-free shopping. It is 13 miles long and five miles wide, is self-governing but its citizens hold U.S. passports and trade in U.S. dollars. Population is approx. 70,000 and there are approx. 15 islands with some of the best beaches in Micronesia, many protected by coral barrier reefs. Saipan is also the site of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point in the earth’s oceans at 38,635 feet. English, Chamorro and Carolinian are the official languages and Japanese and Korean are widely spoken. The constitution came into operation in January 1978, and allows for an executive Governor and a bi-cameral legislature consisting of an 18-seat House of Representatives and nine-member Senate.
Saipan has virtually no tree line because the island was heavily bombed during WWII. Garapan, the largest town, was leveled during the war and has been redeveloped. The island is probably best known to Westerners for its role in WWII. Victory in the Pacific hung on the outcome of the battle for the Marianas, and it was in Saipan that the decisive battle for the Pacific offensive took place. After days of bombing, shelling and strafing the island, U.S. forces landed on June 15, 1944 and fought for three tough weeks to wrest Saipan from the Japanese. More than 28,000 Japanese soldiers perished in the battle, while nearly 3,500 Americans were lost.
At. Banzai Cliff, many Japanese jumped to their deaths, rather than facing capture, following the final orders of Lt. Gen. Saito, who said, “Whether we attack or whether we stay where we are…as it says in Senjinkun (Battle Ethics), I will never suffer the disgrace of being taken alive.” Allied soldiers would later call Banzai Cliff “Hara Kiri Gulch.” Maj. Robert Sheeks, who witnessed hundreds of people, including families committing suicide, later wrote, “There was death all around the place. You really think the world is coming to an end.”
+++++++++++++++++++++
We were up early to gaze across the Saipan Channel and onto the island of Tinian, an island just south of Saipan. We could clearly see the waves crashing against the steep cliffs. From San Francisco to Tinian began the journey of “Little Boy”, a four-ton bomb. Loaded aboard the Enola Gay, an American B-29 aircraft and with a crew of 12, it took off at 2:45 AM on August 6, 1945 and headed for Hiroshima. It was dropped at 9:15 AM and exploded in the air above the city, forming a fireball that quickly mushroomed into a dark-grey cloud over 3 miles wide and 33,000 feet high. More than 75,000 people perished from the explosion, beginning the age of atomic warfare.
The second atomic bomb loaded on Tinian was a 4.5 ton plutonium bomb named “Fat Man”. It was dropped on Nagasaki on August 9, 1945 (we visit Nagasaki on March 5).
The waters were crystal clear as we gazed into the Philippine Sea -- incredible shades of blues and turquoises. A gorgeous reef encircled the city of Garapan, the largest city on the island. Even Tahiti has met her match in this island! What beautiful, beautiful beaches and seas! Just leave me on the beach here for a few days and I think I could really enjoy “island life”.
We docked and Thrifty rental car pick us up. A very nice Toyota Corolla and we were four, total. $42 for the day’s touring! We had the entire day to explore so we headed south. The first stop was the American Memorial Park, which is run by the National Parks Service. (What a cushy assignment!) This is a living museum with Japanese bunkers, pillboxes, anti-aircraft emplacements, fuel storage tanks and a wonderful indoor with diaries of American and Japanese soldiers, photographs and diagrams of the battles. You looked out on the Philippine Sea from Micro Beach and nearby is a bird habitat. We drove along the Beach Road and saw two Japanese tanks marooned in the shallow waters of the sea. They are still out there!! And there was a tank near the walking path by the beach. Trees now grow through the openings.
Saipan is only 1250 miles from Tokyo and thus became a vital Japanese administrative, supply and communications center. The 2nd Marines took Garapan and then the 4th Marines captured Aslito Airfield on June 18. General Saito was then forced to withdraw to form defensive lines in the north and in the island’s central highlands. To capture Mt. Tapotchau, the U.S. Marine units attacked the most heavily defended Japanese positions. These areas came to be called “Purple Heart Ridge” and the “Valley of Death”.
We stopped for some necessary shopping at a drug store and grocery store combination called Joe Ten. I enjoy seeing the local products and we bought a bag of chips – but these were green pea snacks! They looked like cheese curls but were long and slender green sticks! Very tasty and only $0.40!
We continued down the road and came to the airport. A wonderfully small and friendly place with many bunkers around the area. The Saipan Red Cross is now housed in one. There is one near the runway, actually within the runway fence. Near the Control Tower, we found a HUGE bunker for aerial bombs (the size of a gymnasium). A “No Entry” sign did not stop us (this IS a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, you know!) and we saw the overhead tracks which pulled the bombs through the shelter. The doors were at least a foot thick and 15 feet high. I was surprised that all the bunkers were above ground. I peeped into a few of them to find several doors (and spiders so that delayed my progress further!) leading to small rooms. The entire area was littered with tanks and guns. It is very hard to imagine the horrible deaths and terrible destruction which occurred on this island when you visit under perfect weather conditions…sunshine, no clouds, strong breeze and friendly people. Oh, how time can change an environment.
We continued up Middle Road on the west side of the island, to Banzai Cliff (Puntan Sabaneta), one of the places where hundreds of Japanese civilians jumped to their deaths as the Americans were taking over. Whole families lined up in order of age. The next oldest brother or sister pushed each child over the edge, until the mother pushed the oldest child and the father pushed his wife before running backwards over the cliff himself. Although U.S. solders dropped leaflets and shouted though loudspeakers that those who surrendered would not be harmed, the mass suicides were deemed preferable to capture and presumed torture. There are many, many memorials along the cliff.
The Last Japanese Command Post is where the Japanese Imperial Army readied themselves for their final desperate battle against American invasion forces. Lt. General Saito committed Hara-kiri, thrusting his sword into his stomach while his aide shot him in the head. Guns, torpedoes and tanks have been placed on the lawn below the concrete bunker, which served as the command post. The bunker is built into the rock face and is very cleverly concealed.
Suicide Cliff (Laderan Banadero) is 2400 feet above the command post, another site for Japanese suicides. Today, there were beautiful views of the northern tip of the island. Nearby is the Grotto, a collapsed limestone cavern with a pool of cobalt-blue seawater filled by three underwater passageways. There were 100 steep concrete stairs down to the water and it was a huge cavern that must be an incredible place to dive! The tunnels lead to the open sea. Bird Island, is a rocky limestone islet close to shore and a wildlife sanctuary for brown noddies and other sea birds. The view from the top was drop-dead gorgeous. Blues, turquoises, the protected lagoon, the white sandy beach…oh boy it was a spectacular view down the coastline. I hope the pictures give it justice.
With the island’s capture, the Americans penetrated the inner defenses of the Japanese Empire and began the final phase of the War. American intelligence analysts gained literally tons of secret and sensitive Japanese documents that revealed much about Japanese military planning and strategy, and aided in the decoding and interpretation of Japanese communications. More importantly, Saipan and the other islands of the Marianas became the prime launching platform for airborne attacks using the American B-29 bomber against the Japanese home islands.
During this incredible day of touring, we ate junk. Terrible to write, I know, but we enjoyed our McDonald’s milkshakes and potato chips! Sometimes you can get “full up” of rich foods and it was a refreshing change to just munch on snacks! We stopped at a hotel for a quick tour and I ran into the sea but the beach was all coral! And I did not have shoes!!! Imagine me walking tentatively among the coral… but I eventually flopped myself into the sea. And it was glorious! Warm waters and I did eventually find a sandy bottom. Beautiful beach!
We headed back to the ship and we had more singers and dancers to see us off, as this was a maiden call for the Queen Victoria. We were told there are only four-five cruise ships a year that call on Saipan and we definitely consider ourselves very lucky for this port of call.
Saipan is the fastest-growing island in Micronesia with golf courses, holiday resorts and duty-free shopping. It is 13 miles long and five miles wide, is self-governing but its citizens hold U.S. passports and trade in U.S. dollars. Population is approx. 70,000 and there are approx. 15 islands with some of the best beaches in Micronesia, many protected by coral barrier reefs. Saipan is also the site of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point in the earth’s oceans at 38,635 feet. English, Chamorro and Carolinian are the official languages and Japanese and Korean are widely spoken. The constitution came into operation in January 1978, and allows for an executive Governor and a bi-cameral legislature consisting of an 18-seat House of Representatives and nine-member Senate.
Saipan has virtually no tree line because the island was heavily bombed during WWII. Garapan, the largest town, was leveled during the war and has been redeveloped. The island is probably best known to Westerners for its role in WWII. Victory in the Pacific hung on the outcome of the battle for the Marianas, and it was in Saipan that the decisive battle for the Pacific offensive took place. After days of bombing, shelling and strafing the island, U.S. forces landed on June 15, 1944 and fought for three tough weeks to wrest Saipan from the Japanese. More than 28,000 Japanese soldiers perished in the battle, while nearly 3,500 Americans were lost.
At. Banzai Cliff, many Japanese jumped to their deaths, rather than facing capture, following the final orders of Lt. Gen. Saito, who said, “Whether we attack or whether we stay where we are…as it says in Senjinkun (Battle Ethics), I will never suffer the disgrace of being taken alive.” Allied soldiers would later call Banzai Cliff “Hara Kiri Gulch.” Maj. Robert Sheeks, who witnessed hundreds of people, including families committing suicide, later wrote, “There was death all around the place. You really think the world is coming to an end.”
+++++++++++++++++++++
We were up early to gaze across the Saipan Channel and onto the island of Tinian, an island just south of Saipan. We could clearly see the waves crashing against the steep cliffs. From San Francisco to Tinian began the journey of “Little Boy”, a four-ton bomb. Loaded aboard the Enola Gay, an American B-29 aircraft and with a crew of 12, it took off at 2:45 AM on August 6, 1945 and headed for Hiroshima. It was dropped at 9:15 AM and exploded in the air above the city, forming a fireball that quickly mushroomed into a dark-grey cloud over 3 miles wide and 33,000 feet high. More than 75,000 people perished from the explosion, beginning the age of atomic warfare.
The second atomic bomb loaded on Tinian was a 4.5 ton plutonium bomb named “Fat Man”. It was dropped on Nagasaki on August 9, 1945 (we visit Nagasaki on March 5).
The waters were crystal clear as we gazed into the Philippine Sea -- incredible shades of blues and turquoises. A gorgeous reef encircled the city of Garapan, the largest city on the island. Even Tahiti has met her match in this island! What beautiful, beautiful beaches and seas! Just leave me on the beach here for a few days and I think I could really enjoy “island life”.
We docked and Thrifty rental car pick us up. A very nice Toyota Corolla and we were four, total. $42 for the day’s touring! We had the entire day to explore so we headed south. The first stop was the American Memorial Park, which is run by the National Parks Service. (What a cushy assignment!) This is a living museum with Japanese bunkers, pillboxes, anti-aircraft emplacements, fuel storage tanks and a wonderful indoor with diaries of American and Japanese soldiers, photographs and diagrams of the battles. You looked out on the Philippine Sea from Micro Beach and nearby is a bird habitat. We drove along the Beach Road and saw two Japanese tanks marooned in the shallow waters of the sea. They are still out there!! And there was a tank near the walking path by the beach. Trees now grow through the openings.
Saipan is only 1250 miles from Tokyo and thus became a vital Japanese administrative, supply and communications center. The 2nd Marines took Garapan and then the 4th Marines captured Aslito Airfield on June 18. General Saito was then forced to withdraw to form defensive lines in the north and in the island’s central highlands. To capture Mt. Tapotchau, the U.S. Marine units attacked the most heavily defended Japanese positions. These areas came to be called “Purple Heart Ridge” and the “Valley of Death”.
We stopped for some necessary shopping at a drug store and grocery store combination called Joe Ten. I enjoy seeing the local products and we bought a bag of chips – but these were green pea snacks! They looked like cheese curls but were long and slender green sticks! Very tasty and only $0.40!
We continued down the road and came to the airport. A wonderfully small and friendly place with many bunkers around the area. The Saipan Red Cross is now housed in one. There is one near the runway, actually within the runway fence. Near the Control Tower, we found a HUGE bunker for aerial bombs (the size of a gymnasium). A “No Entry” sign did not stop us (this IS a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, you know!) and we saw the overhead tracks which pulled the bombs through the shelter. The doors were at least a foot thick and 15 feet high. I was surprised that all the bunkers were above ground. I peeped into a few of them to find several doors (and spiders so that delayed my progress further!) leading to small rooms. The entire area was littered with tanks and guns. It is very hard to imagine the horrible deaths and terrible destruction which occurred on this island when you visit under perfect weather conditions…sunshine, no clouds, strong breeze and friendly people. Oh, how time can change an environment.
We continued up Middle Road on the west side of the island, to Banzai Cliff (Puntan Sabaneta), one of the places where hundreds of Japanese civilians jumped to their deaths as the Americans were taking over. Whole families lined up in order of age. The next oldest brother or sister pushed each child over the edge, until the mother pushed the oldest child and the father pushed his wife before running backwards over the cliff himself. Although U.S. solders dropped leaflets and shouted though loudspeakers that those who surrendered would not be harmed, the mass suicides were deemed preferable to capture and presumed torture. There are many, many memorials along the cliff.
The Last Japanese Command Post is where the Japanese Imperial Army readied themselves for their final desperate battle against American invasion forces. Lt. General Saito committed Hara-kiri, thrusting his sword into his stomach while his aide shot him in the head. Guns, torpedoes and tanks have been placed on the lawn below the concrete bunker, which served as the command post. The bunker is built into the rock face and is very cleverly concealed.
Suicide Cliff (Laderan Banadero) is 2400 feet above the command post, another site for Japanese suicides. Today, there were beautiful views of the northern tip of the island. Nearby is the Grotto, a collapsed limestone cavern with a pool of cobalt-blue seawater filled by three underwater passageways. There were 100 steep concrete stairs down to the water and it was a huge cavern that must be an incredible place to dive! The tunnels lead to the open sea. Bird Island, is a rocky limestone islet close to shore and a wildlife sanctuary for brown noddies and other sea birds. The view from the top was drop-dead gorgeous. Blues, turquoises, the protected lagoon, the white sandy beach…oh boy it was a spectacular view down the coastline. I hope the pictures give it justice.
With the island’s capture, the Americans penetrated the inner defenses of the Japanese Empire and began the final phase of the War. American intelligence analysts gained literally tons of secret and sensitive Japanese documents that revealed much about Japanese military planning and strategy, and aided in the decoding and interpretation of Japanese communications. More importantly, Saipan and the other islands of the Marianas became the prime launching platform for airborne attacks using the American B-29 bomber against the Japanese home islands.
During this incredible day of touring, we ate junk. Terrible to write, I know, but we enjoyed our McDonald’s milkshakes and potato chips! Sometimes you can get “full up” of rich foods and it was a refreshing change to just munch on snacks! We stopped at a hotel for a quick tour and I ran into the sea but the beach was all coral! And I did not have shoes!!! Imagine me walking tentatively among the coral… but I eventually flopped myself into the sea. And it was glorious! Warm waters and I did eventually find a sandy bottom. Beautiful beach!
We headed back to the ship and we had more singers and dancers to see us off, as this was a maiden call for the Queen Victoria. We were told there are only four-five cruise ships a year that call on Saipan and we definitely consider ourselves very lucky for this port of call.
Feb 27 and 28 - at sea
Saturday, February 28, 2009 – at sea
Well, today is easy enough to write about. I spent the entire day in bed. Yech. Achy and congested. We had so many appointments to cancel and re-schedule. But some other day…
Friday, February 27, 2009 – at sea – We crossed the equator!
Worked in the morning and arranged to meet with people at various times for meals and meetings. The next batch of cocktail invitations are going out soon! We crossed the equator today about 9:30 AM and they had the “pollywog” ceremony again at noon. Had lunch with a friend who has joined us for a few day trips in the various ports. Took a computer class and worked on files and notes. Went to the gym for a short workout. Formal night and we enjoyed the singing of Cheryl Sinclair.
Hard to believe we have been onboard six weeks! It seems like forever at times and then again it seems like yesterday.
“Happiness is a journey, not a destination.” Souza
Well, today is easy enough to write about. I spent the entire day in bed. Yech. Achy and congested. We had so many appointments to cancel and re-schedule. But some other day…
Friday, February 27, 2009 – at sea – We crossed the equator!
Worked in the morning and arranged to meet with people at various times for meals and meetings. The next batch of cocktail invitations are going out soon! We crossed the equator today about 9:30 AM and they had the “pollywog” ceremony again at noon. Had lunch with a friend who has joined us for a few day trips in the various ports. Took a computer class and worked on files and notes. Went to the gym for a short workout. Formal night and we enjoyed the singing of Cheryl Sinclair.
Hard to believe we have been onboard six weeks! It seems like forever at times and then again it seems like yesterday.
“Happiness is a journey, not a destination.” Souza
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Rabaul, Papua New Guinea
Thursday, February 26, 2009 – RABAUL, Papua New Guinea
Volcanic-ash cloudy! HUMID.
US$1 = 2.73 Kina
Rabaul is a township in East New Britain province, and was the provincial capital and most important settlement until it was destroyed in 1994 by falling ash of a volcanic eruption. The capital was then moved to Kokopo, about 12 miles away. Rabaul is continually threatened by volcanic activity due to being built on the edge of the Rabaul caldera, a flooded caldera of a large volcano. It was the headquarters of German New Guinea until captured by the British Commonwealth during WWI, when it became the capital of the Australian mandated Territory of New Guinea until 1937. During WWII, it was captured by the Japanese in 1942 and was the main base of Japanese military and naval activity in the South Pacific. The area is popular for scuba diving and snorkeling. The Tolais are the native people in this region and in 1975, the country became independent. There are approx. 16,000 citizens living in Rabaul and Kokopo and 185,000 in the East New Britain province. Out of the 860 languages spoken in the country, 77 languages are in this province and eight are spoken where we toured today.
Nearly the entire town was buried when Vulcan and Turvur-vur volcanoes erupted on September 19, 1994. What was once the city center is now a ghost town. Roofs and rubble still poke through the ash and mud in eerie testament to the event. The sight is striking. I will never forget it. Never have I seen such damage and devastation and what we saw today is over 15 years since the volcano erupted. The ash is the most destructive element in a volcanic event.
FABULOUS day -- all I could have asked for and more. We were up at 6 to see the volcanoes as we headed from Blanche Bay into Simpson Harbor and past the Beehives (islands). Turvur-vur is very active and was spewing forth all kinds of smoke all day long. The buried hillside neighborhood that frames the port was once home to the elite German ex-pat community. This was a maiden port of call and the men gave a wonderful dance program with drums and sticks, in full costume. Fascinating!
We then had a private welcome ceremony by the men and boarded the only air-conditioned tour bus!! Yes! Thank you so much! Kevin was our driver and Marastella was the guide. We headed up to the Volcanological Observatory, with a great view down to the ship and harbor, and passed many war tunnels, dug into the side of the mountain. We drove through Rabaul (pronounced Rah-baal) and over very bumpy roads to the Japanese Barge Tunnel. Much of the road system has been washed out or ruined with deep ravines at the edge of the road. The group were all great troopers as we bounced along!
The Japanese Barge Tunnel houses approx. five old barges. They were hauled up to a deep and large tunnel and stored there. They are decrepit and decayed and intriguing! We climbed the steps to view them from the top. Several vendors were outside and we learned the meaning of shell money. The Tolai make different size necklaces of very small cowrie shells, and depending on the purchase, a different size split cane necklace of shells is used to pay – such as for a daughter to be wed!
We drove past a British Floating Crane Wreck, still in the water, and another 12 miles (but it seemed like 30 with the bumps and detours from right lane to left lane – although there are no lane markers!) into Kokopo. We walked around the War Relics Museum with WWII artifacts, including a Japanese half-track (my Father was in the American version) and an American jeep. They also had a house of traditional masks (as tall as I am!) and crocodiles in a pen.
Down the road was the very crowded Kokopo local market with fresh fish and fruit. It is open Monday- Saturday. We drove past several schools and saw students in their uniforms. Education is paid by the parents so some children are not educated. They do learn English and are not required to go to school after age 15.
Kokopo was just a small town when the eruption that buried Rabaul in 1994 forced the government offices to be relocated. It is now the official capital. We toured the Museum and Cultural Center of East New Britain with historic displays and photographs of the region as well as many antique artifacts from the war, including the nose section of an American B-17. We stopped at the Red Rooster for some fast food but they would not accept dollars! We stopped for a few sodas and snacks and kept going.
Over 1000 Allied solders are buried at Bita Paka Memorial Cemetery, southeast of Kokopo – Indians, Australians, Pakistani, Fijians and New Guineans. It was a peaceful and colorful cemetery.
We drove back on the same road with the same bumps – we all figured we lost a few pounds, what with the humidity and road conditions! We definitely lost a tire from under the car! I saw it behind the car after we had dived into a ravine and I hit the roof of the car! We continued past the cocoa and coconut trees, fishing wharfs, vendors with hot food, people waiting for the next open-aired truck which is their local bus and huge containers of coconut oil. We know the containers to be used for oil/petroleum but they use them for coconut oil. There were also many wooden churches of great size throughout the province.
In to Rabaul, we drove through the volcanic-ravaged streets to the New Britain Club, which houses the Historical Museum and is next to Admiral Yamamoto’s Bunker and headquarters. The history of the war was displayed on panels, as well as a miniature Japanese land mine. Ash covers the ground. There are no longer any streets. You drive through the ash and is quite solid, not like sand that gives way. But the ash is about three feet high!! And now the trees are starting to grow through it! It is eerie and dark. I felt like I was on the set of a horror film.
The Rabaul Volcanic Hot Springs were out on the most barren land I have ever seen, near the base of the erupting volcano. We were counted as we entered that area as the landowners receive a fee for each trespasser. We could HEAR the volcano grumbling as it spew huge clouds of black and white smoke. We could even see hot springs at the base of the volcano. And there were families selling wares and blond-haired dark skinned children running around playing in the deep ravines of ash. Surreal. And how did these children end up with blond hair??
Our last stop was at the wreck of a Japanese plane. It was in the center of a very dense section of dead palm trees, still standing but dead, in ash (soil). And surrounding the plane were the Matupit people. They live a very simple life and were selling their wares. The boys (we did not see any girls) were running around us, seemingly very excited to see us. And they were not asking for money. They wanted you to buy their goods. It was a sight I will never ever forget. We needed much more time there.
But Kevin drove hurriedly back to the ship as we had felt a few rain drops. When it rains, it means the roads of ash would be washed away and the edges of the road would disappear. We could be there for a very long while if we did hurry out!
Returning to the ship, Mr. Melly Paivu met our van to thank us for our business. Paivu Tours – I would recommend them highly for this region. He asked to be photographed with us and had other employees with him who all asked to shake our hand and thank us for coming.
Quite a thought process I had as I was walking toward this luxury megaship with my back to this town ravaged by ash. We had a fabulous insight into their culture and province today.
Upon boarding the ship, the Rabaul post office was still onboard! We managed to post a few postcards at a huge price each ($2 per postcard just for stamps!!) and settled back into our comfortable cocoon as we headed to the Lido buffet.
I was mesmerized by the volcano (and the rain did come!) as we sailed away. If only they had stopped playing the “Sail Away” party music above us on the open deck, we might have again heard the sounds of the volcano and perhaps understood what the future holds….
Shower, computer work, snack and entertainment tonight is pianist, Caroline Dennis, and Vocalist, Gary Williams.
A dear friend just sent me this card:
“For a long time it seemed to me that life was about to begin – real life. But there was always some obstacle in the way, something to be gotten through first, some unfinished business, time still to be served, a debt to paid. At last it dawned on me that these obstacles were my life. This perspective has helped me to see this is no way to happiness. Happiness is the way. So treasure every moment you have and remember that time waits for no one.”
Volcanic-ash cloudy! HUMID.
US$1 = 2.73 Kina
Rabaul is a township in East New Britain province, and was the provincial capital and most important settlement until it was destroyed in 1994 by falling ash of a volcanic eruption. The capital was then moved to Kokopo, about 12 miles away. Rabaul is continually threatened by volcanic activity due to being built on the edge of the Rabaul caldera, a flooded caldera of a large volcano. It was the headquarters of German New Guinea until captured by the British Commonwealth during WWI, when it became the capital of the Australian mandated Territory of New Guinea until 1937. During WWII, it was captured by the Japanese in 1942 and was the main base of Japanese military and naval activity in the South Pacific. The area is popular for scuba diving and snorkeling. The Tolais are the native people in this region and in 1975, the country became independent. There are approx. 16,000 citizens living in Rabaul and Kokopo and 185,000 in the East New Britain province. Out of the 860 languages spoken in the country, 77 languages are in this province and eight are spoken where we toured today.
Nearly the entire town was buried when Vulcan and Turvur-vur volcanoes erupted on September 19, 1994. What was once the city center is now a ghost town. Roofs and rubble still poke through the ash and mud in eerie testament to the event. The sight is striking. I will never forget it. Never have I seen such damage and devastation and what we saw today is over 15 years since the volcano erupted. The ash is the most destructive element in a volcanic event.
FABULOUS day -- all I could have asked for and more. We were up at 6 to see the volcanoes as we headed from Blanche Bay into Simpson Harbor and past the Beehives (islands). Turvur-vur is very active and was spewing forth all kinds of smoke all day long. The buried hillside neighborhood that frames the port was once home to the elite German ex-pat community. This was a maiden port of call and the men gave a wonderful dance program with drums and sticks, in full costume. Fascinating!
We then had a private welcome ceremony by the men and boarded the only air-conditioned tour bus!! Yes! Thank you so much! Kevin was our driver and Marastella was the guide. We headed up to the Volcanological Observatory, with a great view down to the ship and harbor, and passed many war tunnels, dug into the side of the mountain. We drove through Rabaul (pronounced Rah-baal) and over very bumpy roads to the Japanese Barge Tunnel. Much of the road system has been washed out or ruined with deep ravines at the edge of the road. The group were all great troopers as we bounced along!
The Japanese Barge Tunnel houses approx. five old barges. They were hauled up to a deep and large tunnel and stored there. They are decrepit and decayed and intriguing! We climbed the steps to view them from the top. Several vendors were outside and we learned the meaning of shell money. The Tolai make different size necklaces of very small cowrie shells, and depending on the purchase, a different size split cane necklace of shells is used to pay – such as for a daughter to be wed!
We drove past a British Floating Crane Wreck, still in the water, and another 12 miles (but it seemed like 30 with the bumps and detours from right lane to left lane – although there are no lane markers!) into Kokopo. We walked around the War Relics Museum with WWII artifacts, including a Japanese half-track (my Father was in the American version) and an American jeep. They also had a house of traditional masks (as tall as I am!) and crocodiles in a pen.
Down the road was the very crowded Kokopo local market with fresh fish and fruit. It is open Monday- Saturday. We drove past several schools and saw students in their uniforms. Education is paid by the parents so some children are not educated. They do learn English and are not required to go to school after age 15.
Kokopo was just a small town when the eruption that buried Rabaul in 1994 forced the government offices to be relocated. It is now the official capital. We toured the Museum and Cultural Center of East New Britain with historic displays and photographs of the region as well as many antique artifacts from the war, including the nose section of an American B-17. We stopped at the Red Rooster for some fast food but they would not accept dollars! We stopped for a few sodas and snacks and kept going.
Over 1000 Allied solders are buried at Bita Paka Memorial Cemetery, southeast of Kokopo – Indians, Australians, Pakistani, Fijians and New Guineans. It was a peaceful and colorful cemetery.
We drove back on the same road with the same bumps – we all figured we lost a few pounds, what with the humidity and road conditions! We definitely lost a tire from under the car! I saw it behind the car after we had dived into a ravine and I hit the roof of the car! We continued past the cocoa and coconut trees, fishing wharfs, vendors with hot food, people waiting for the next open-aired truck which is their local bus and huge containers of coconut oil. We know the containers to be used for oil/petroleum but they use them for coconut oil. There were also many wooden churches of great size throughout the province.
In to Rabaul, we drove through the volcanic-ravaged streets to the New Britain Club, which houses the Historical Museum and is next to Admiral Yamamoto’s Bunker and headquarters. The history of the war was displayed on panels, as well as a miniature Japanese land mine. Ash covers the ground. There are no longer any streets. You drive through the ash and is quite solid, not like sand that gives way. But the ash is about three feet high!! And now the trees are starting to grow through it! It is eerie and dark. I felt like I was on the set of a horror film.
The Rabaul Volcanic Hot Springs were out on the most barren land I have ever seen, near the base of the erupting volcano. We were counted as we entered that area as the landowners receive a fee for each trespasser. We could HEAR the volcano grumbling as it spew huge clouds of black and white smoke. We could even see hot springs at the base of the volcano. And there were families selling wares and blond-haired dark skinned children running around playing in the deep ravines of ash. Surreal. And how did these children end up with blond hair??
Our last stop was at the wreck of a Japanese plane. It was in the center of a very dense section of dead palm trees, still standing but dead, in ash (soil). And surrounding the plane were the Matupit people. They live a very simple life and were selling their wares. The boys (we did not see any girls) were running around us, seemingly very excited to see us. And they were not asking for money. They wanted you to buy their goods. It was a sight I will never ever forget. We needed much more time there.
But Kevin drove hurriedly back to the ship as we had felt a few rain drops. When it rains, it means the roads of ash would be washed away and the edges of the road would disappear. We could be there for a very long while if we did hurry out!
Returning to the ship, Mr. Melly Paivu met our van to thank us for our business. Paivu Tours – I would recommend them highly for this region. He asked to be photographed with us and had other employees with him who all asked to shake our hand and thank us for coming.
Quite a thought process I had as I was walking toward this luxury megaship with my back to this town ravaged by ash. We had a fabulous insight into their culture and province today.
Upon boarding the ship, the Rabaul post office was still onboard! We managed to post a few postcards at a huge price each ($2 per postcard just for stamps!!) and settled back into our comfortable cocoon as we headed to the Lido buffet.
I was mesmerized by the volcano (and the rain did come!) as we sailed away. If only they had stopped playing the “Sail Away” party music above us on the open deck, we might have again heard the sounds of the volcano and perhaps understood what the future holds….
Shower, computer work, snack and entertainment tonight is pianist, Caroline Dennis, and Vocalist, Gary Williams.
A dear friend just sent me this card:
“For a long time it seemed to me that life was about to begin – real life. But there was always some obstacle in the way, something to be gotten through first, some unfinished business, time still to be served, a debt to paid. At last it dawned on me that these obstacles were my life. This perspective has helped me to see this is no way to happiness. Happiness is the way. So treasure every moment you have and remember that time waits for no one.”
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