Sunday, January 30, 2011

Papeete Tahiti and Bora Bora! Check us out on the Holland America Blog!

Wednesday, Jan 26 – Papeete Tahiti – 86 degrees
“Polynesia” means many islands and refers to a sub region of Oceania with over 1000 islands in the central and southern Pacific Ocean. It is more of an anthropological, rather than a geographical term, referring to a population general belonging to one ethno-cultural family as a result of centuries of maritime migrations. Religious carvings, farming, fishing, weather prediction, out-rigger canoe building and navigation were highly developed skills. Navigators were highly respected and each island maintains a house or complex for canoe-building and navigational training.

Papeete is the administrative and commercial center and hub for tourism and was first settled in 1818. France took control of the Tahitian Islands and made them a protectorate in 1842. Herman Melville was imprisoned here in 1842 and Paul Gauguin lived here for many years. There are approx. 170,000 people on the island. This is the largest of the 118 islands and atolls.

We hired a car with new friends from Bird Key, FL (just down the road from us on Longboat Key!) and had a drive around the 71 miles on the island of Tahiti. There is one main road through the town of Papeete with lots of traffic so we crawled along until we came to the airport (nonstop service from LA), past the Museum of Tahiti and her islands, and stopped at the Marae of Aruhurahu (temple). This is a national treasure and the only restored example with black stones arranged in a low flat pyramid structure about 5 feet tall. There are two restored open-air stone temples which were used in pre-Christian days for religious ceremonies, meetings and cultural rites, sacrifices and burials.

The Grottos of Mara’a have a nice bordered walkway and the Paroa cave. The flowers and plants were beautiful.

The artist Paul Gauguin lived on Tahiti from 1897-1901 and we visited his home where replicas of his art are exhibited. Next door is the Harrison Smith Botanical Gardens.

We finally found the Arahoho blowhole (when we saw the pull-off for a large bus) and never found the waterfalls. Drove past James Norman Hall’s home (WWI veteran, author of Mutiny on the Bounty (plus others) whose library has more than 3000 books) and tried to find a gas station where they did not have a minimum on the credit card! We had not changed money to the Polynesian French franc so we finally met a nice girl who gave us a lousy exchange rate for our dollars. BUT mission accomplished and we were off with a full tank of gas.

Point Venus marks the island’s northernmost land, is where Captain Samuel Wallis came ashore in 1767 to become the first European to discover Tahiti, the site where Captain Cook recorded the path of Venus’ orbit in 1769 and where Captain William Bligh and the Bounty crew came in 1788 to collect breadfruit plants. There is beautiful black sand, picnic tables, memorials commemorating the first missionaries to the region in 1797, snack area, gift shop and a light house.

Remember: McDonald’s here does NOT offer free WIFI, there is absolutely nothing free in Tahiti, they speak French, they stop for you in cross-walks, prices are about 3x what you pay anywhere else and this is the commercial island and port for all of the Society Islands (such as Bora Bora and Moorea). The drop-dead gorgeous views of the water are on the other islands and this island is used as a stopping over point for air connections and commerce.

Met with a passenger who was leaving the ship; dinner in the dining room and entertainment by Peter Cousens, an Australian singer on their Australia Day, their Independence Day.

Enjoyed the movie “Australia” which had beautiful scenes of Western Australia and a fairly good story line.

“Happiness is not a state to arrive at, but a manner of traveling.” – Margaret Lee Runbeck

Thursday, Jan 27 – Bora Bora, Society Islands
The Pearl of the Pacific! Known for black pearls, they are not necessarily black! The gems range in color from silvery gray to deep green with specks of gold, pink or blue and are produced by black lipped oysters.

What a beautiful island! You forget how truly colorful the waters surrounding the island are until you get out of the main town (small town) of Vaitape and explore (drive along) the one lone road.

We decided to sleep in - 8:30. When I opened the curtains, there was a ship perfectly centered in our window frame - the Paul Gauguin! And our friends were on it! We had carefully checked our itineraries and found out we would miss each other by one day in both ports…so obviously something had changed! Hurrying to dress, we called the front desk and asked them to get a note through the port agent to the other ship. And as I was hurrying off the ship, via tender, we received a note from them to meet onshore!! So we finally met up and we had already been granted permission to board their ship! So off we went and toured their 6-star vessel which is ideal for exploring the Society, Cook and Marquesas Islands for 7, 9 or 14 nights. Nice staterooms with dark paneling, a Tahitian sculpture in the stateroom hallway, L’Occitaine products, all-inclusive drinks, no tipping, open seating, fantastic menus and decorated in local fabrics to give it a true Polynesian feel. The best feature is their marina off the back of the ship for waterskiing and kayaking and equipment for snorkeling. Enjoyed a wonderful lunch onboard and they went off to the cruise line’s private island (motu) for an afternoon in the sun. What a fun day to unexpectedly meet up with friends in a different country!

www.boraboralaverie.com – We met the nicest man who helped us with the internet (an hour at $5 - which was truly a bargain in this part of the world). His internet store is also the town Laundromat, about a 15 minute walk to the left from the port area (past the school).

Wandered around town to the various stores and churches (Protestant and Catholic); met the local woman selling fresh tuna for $20 a fish, watermelon for $30 (for ONE WATERMELON) and many vendors of pearls. Some of the crew were under a breadfruit tree. One was in the tree throwing breadfruit (an oval/round light green fruit) to the other two who were holding open their beach towel to catch them. They told us how to eat them – either boiled and salted OR lightly fried to taste like French fries! They knocked on our door about 2 hours later with hot, fried breadfruit and it was absolutely delicious! Too bad the Jamaicans did not like it after all the effort Captain Cook and the other explorers made to bring it to the Americas. It could have been a national staple!

After dinner onboard, we decided to go back in to town. Never know when we will be back again to see Bora Bora at night! The church choir was rehearsing in the outdoor covered stadium and we enjoyed their singing. They had several mobile trailer restaurants near the dock for either dinner or snacks. The stars were out, the town was just about asleep, the streets were dark, a few fishermen were at the pier and it was a nice quiet evening for wandering the dusty streets of Vaitape.

“…Never before had I seen waters the colour of the rainbow or like fireworks, springing right out of some maddened imagination, or from Gauguin’s own palette. Waters the colour of bronze, of copper, gold, silver, mother-of-pearl, pearl, jade, emeralds; moonlight or the aurora borealis. The stars themselves seemed to have fallen into the sea, scintillating brilliantly on the lagoon’s surface, in bright sunlight...Who could find the words, what poet the images, what painter even the colors, to describe this scene? I give up.” - Paul-Emile Victor, upon his return to Bora Bora after a 25-year absence

Friday, Jan 28 – Bora Bora, Society Islands
The island is surrounded by a lagoon and a fringing reef. In the center of the island are the remnants of an extinct volcano rising to two peaks, Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu. There are several high-end resorts built in surrounding motus (islands) surrounding the lagoons with over-water bungalows on stilts in the lagoon. The island’s main attraction is its calm and crystal-clear lagoon. This island is what you see in the movies – various shades of blue and green waters with crashing waves at the outer reef.

We took the free tour to The Farm, Bora Pearl Company. Ask for Ms. Vainui Hutia and tell her Luisa sent you! www.borapearl.com They show how the oysters are injected and that it takes 4-10 years to create the colorful pearls of the Pacific. And of course they have a showroom! You can choose your own pearl and design your jewelry or choose from their masterpieces - - the best quality pearl necklace was $70,000!
Did you know…you should make it a habit to rinse and dry your pearls before you put them away. You may even polish them with a soft cloth containing a drop of olive oil so they maintain their luster and do not dry out. DON’T use commercial jewelry cleaners, never clean them in an ultrasonic cleaner, never steam-clean them, never use detergents, bleaches, powdered cleansers, baking soda or ammonia-based products and do not wear pearls when the string is wet as it will attract dirt. And don’t hang them to dry or use toothbrushes to clean them!


The island tour with Leon of Heimana Tours was an interesting two hour drive (on the road built by Americans during WWII) passing by the beautiful blue-green sea and by the non-defunct WWII army base. The island was our South Pacific supply base with an oil depot, air strip, sea place base and defensive fortifications. They maintained a supply force of nine ships, 20000 tons of equipment and nearly 5000 men for approx. 4+ years. Seven massive canons were set up at strategic points around the island to protect it from military attack (we saw one). Leon also showed us how to make a dinner plate from the leaves of the plant and how they use the special tree leaves for the thatched huts in the hotels.

Suggestion: To enjoy the beautiful views, take the airport ferry (FREE!!) round trip from the main dock in Vaitape across the colorful lagoon.

In each port, we are given a currency conversion chart with translations of various phrases we might need, such as “take me to …” and they have several locations listed. Wonderful for the independent traveler! Can’t wait to see the ones for India and Hong Kong!

After a beautiful sail-out from Bora Bora and nice dinner of salmon and Italian wedding soup, Sally Jones, an English comedian and powerful singer/entertainer performed. Computer work while listening to the wonderful live bands…

“Think big thoughts but relish small pleasures.” - H. Jackson Brown, Jr.

Saturday, Jan 29 – At sea, heading southwesterly to Rarotonga, Cook Islands
New speaker is Brigadier General Charles M. Duke, Jr, a retired Air Force Reserve Brigadier General, an astronaut with 71 hours and 14 minutes on the moon at one time and several other space missions totaling 265 hours in space. “Race to the Moon”

www.hollandamerica.com !!! – On the home page, click on the Holland America Blog. Scroll to the Amsterdam ship Mutiny on the Bounty Theme night and you will see us with our hostess, Grace and our maitre’d Komang!

Rain clouds in the distance. Nap! Lunch with friends and work.
Tropical Paradise formal night! The Rat Pack Returns was the entertainment.

“Make your optimism come true.” – Unknown

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Easter island, Pitcairn Island and sea days with no internet connection!

Sunday, Jan 16 – at sea in the Pacific Ocean
Guest Chefs Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein are onboard for special presentations. Slept late, walked and exercised. Met people all over the ship and kept stopping and talking and accomplished little except enjoying myself! Gene is not well and has been resting. The other two men at the dinner table are also ill! The ship is pitching slightly and some people are commenting but we are fine. I tried to read outside but kept meeting people…. Hard to find my little corner for some “down time”.

Went to a meeting for the Holland America Line Chorale – I’m going to sing again! We will be singing a medley of songs from the 20s, 30s and 40s and begin tomorrow.
Martin Beaumont was the comedian. Worked on the computer while listening to the Neptune band.

Things I did not do today (!!):
Protestant Sunday worship at 8AM, Fitness class, watercolor, Jewish Journey, Dance Class, Tai Chi, TV production of Good Morning Amsterdam, Digital workshops, travel guide presentation, bridge classes, Explorations speaker, onboard games, spa, roulette, bingo, How to Write a cookbook, team trivia, Acupuncture seminar, ping pong, duplicate bridge, indoor cycling, writing seminar, arts and crafts, Pilates, Office talk on Environmental issues at sea, afternoon tea, chorale, stretch class, karaoke and Latin nights music!!

Monday, Jan 17 - at sea
Tai chi – I am enjoying it but the steps are not easy and the routines are rather long. I do feel the resistance so I think that is good. The further out we get into the ocean with no land around us and no satellites above us, the less contact we have with internet. Lunch with client. Ran around all afternoon trying to work out some issues.
Entertainment was Katzenjammer, 2 pianists from England who play together/four hands. We’ve seen them before and enjoyed them. About 70 degrees. Worked in the Crowe’s Nest to the wonderful music of Station Band. Ship is under quarantine – no self-serve in the buffet, no salt and pepper shakers out, Purell all over the ship, no library books can be circulated, no games can be taken out…you don’t realize how many activities are curtailed during these days. We have to wait until 48 hours after a decrease in the number of people visiting medical before we can resume normal activity.

“Life is like sailing. You can use any wind to go in any direction.” - Robert Brault

Tuesday, Jan 18 – at sea
Tai Chi and walked on outdoor deck. Met with clients to plan their next voyage; lunch with client who has designed the TVs we have in our hospitals! He did an overland journey to Macchu Pichu and has already produced a 53 minute video of his trip!! Tea in the Crow’s Nest with another client; wonderful view from the full length windows on top of the ship. Went to medical to ask a question for a client.
There are the most beautiful flower arrangements onboard. They are changed every two days and they are creative with exotic flowers and absolutely stunning – quite impressive.

Formal night – only three of us at the table. Oceans 5 Formal night with decks of cards all over the ship. We were given a map of the world, pencil and ruler to mark the path as we circumnavigate. Were asked to host an afternoon tour of Easter Island and we questioned whether we should do it but it lists the same locations we were going to on our own and it saves us $189 per person. We should be able to have the morning to ourselves in the town of Hanga Roa.
Great entertainment – Motown by The Horizons.
“Anywhere is paradise; it’s up to you.” - Unknown

Wednesday, Jan 19 – at sea
The Pacific Ocean got its name

Aerobics, XXXXXXXXXXXxx

We are losing satellite reception. Fine with me, but others are distressed! No TV (what a shame!!), no internet. Satellites beam TV signals only toward huge land masses and a ship just does not qualify! We have a 3.5 meter satellite dish on a gyro to constantly hold the signal but we sail too far from land, we lost the signal.
“Turn your face to the sun and the shadow falls behind you.” - Maori Proverb

Thursday, Jan 20 - Easter Island (Rapa Nui or Isla de Pascua), Chile – World Heritage Site
The island is 2237 miles west of the Chilean coast and is one of the most isolated in the world. It was formed by three extinct volcanoes and discovered by Jacob Roggeveen (a Dutchman) on Easter Day in 1722 and is 15 x 7 miles. Population was 3700 people about 3 years ago and has now swelled to over 6000.

The local oral tradition claims that a chief Hotu Matu’a arrived on the island in one or two large canoes with his wife and extended family, believed to have been Polynesian. Literature suggests the island was settled around 300-400 AD, scientists claim 700-800 AD and another radiocarbon study puts the dates at 1200 AD.

A visit to this island has been on my list for a long time. We tried to fly here from Santiago, Chile, many years ago but the flights were full. Five hour flight and not inexpensive! Found out there are deals from Ecuador to Easter Island also….

As the sun rose at 7:00, many of us were out on deck. And we could see the waves crashing around the island. We readied ourselves with baited breath to host two buses each. It was up to the Captain to see if the stop was possible. And then the 8:00 announcement by the Captain…no way. Groans, worried faces, disappointment…yech. It was just not safe for us to proceed ashore in tenders.

BUT about a ½ hour later, he announced they had researched another landing spot on the north part of the island and so we sailed there (1-1/2 hours) to see if that option would work. Thankfully, he was not giving up. Upon arrival to Anakena Beach, we were all out on deck with binoculars trying to figure out the surf and see what we could see on the beach, the only swimmable beach on the island. The tenders went out, the Captain himself went ashore to see if it was safe and YES!!!!, it was. Yippee! We dropped our 17,637 pound anchor and were grounded for the day!

Lines quickly formed for tenders and we cruised over the most beautiful blue waters to the next docked tender! We walked across one docked tender (like crossing over a river boat) and then stepped down (a steep step down) onto a pontoon and then up on a cement ledge to get to land. And the Chilean officials were there to greet us along with the Immigration and Agricultural inspectors - no fruit, vegetables or plants allowed.

And what a perfect day it was. Sunshine. Few clouds. 75 degrees. Small buses of 15 passengers. One road around the island. Great.

We drove into the only town of Hanga Roa and to the ceremonial site of Tahai. We saw three restored platforms and the only statue (Moai) with its eyes re-inserted. The other statues’ eyes had all been either stolen or removed so to see one with the eyes, is quite an eerie feeling. They face toward the island, not out toward the sea. And they are tall, but honestly, not quite as tall as you imagine. But still, I was quite impressed. And just tickled pink to be here!!!!

The view up the coastline was dreamlike. Waves crashing, blue waters, statues facing inland…wow.
Easter Island – here I am!!

We had to drive through the small town and passed the small airport (seven flights a week to Santiago Chile or Papeete Tahiti). Would have loved to wander the streets to see the supermarket and small shops. We were supposed to dock in town so if there is another visit, there will be time to explore.

Our next stop was up the east coast to the quarry at Rano Raraku where the Moai were carved. There are still 397 statues in different states of completion on the slopes of the extinct volcano. Some were 55-65 feet tall, with about a 1/3 of them under the earth. Several were still embedded in the side of the volcano and many were standing upright. The carving tools were also on display, along with many craft vendors. From one view point, you had a breathtaking view of 15 statues (Tongariki) at the water’s edge with the curving coastline and waves crashing around them.

We explored Tongariki, where 15 statues have been re-erected with the help of a Japanese crane company. The statues are actually complete torsos, the figures kneeling on bent knees with their hands over their stomachs.

We continued back to the Moai near Anakena Beach, look at the various crafts and then hurried back to the ship on the tenders. I wanted to swim in that incredible water. It was after 5:30 and the sun was just as strong as could be. It was magnificent! All the locals and visitors were having a great time. You could see to the bottom and the waves were gently. I had a wonderful time! We met a nice young man (photographer) and his mother (head of a small hospital near Santiago) who were there for 5 days and enjoyed their company.

Had a nice dinner in the buffet with friends, watched the beautiful sunset over Easter Island and
Johnny O, an English entertainer, played his Electronic Wind Instrument (EWI), sounding like a trombone, flute, clarinet, trumpet…in all styles of music.

Friday, Jan 21 – at sea
Beautiful day at sea. Nothing in site around us. Tai Chi class. Quarantine lifted!! No internet reception.
Great lecture on Captain Bligh, Fletcher Christian and Pitcairn Island. There are only 43 inhabitants on the island (3x2 miles) and we look forward to their visit to the ship on Sunday!!
Took an afternoon nap, helped clients, arranged future meetings, group luncheon, not feeling 100% but adusting. Entertainer was Cheryl Sinclair, an English vocalist. I worked on the atrium for several hours but no internet reception. We moved our clocks back and are now an hour behind DE time.


Saturday, Jan 22 – at sea
Today we sailed straight toward sunset! 277 degrees.
Lecures: Hellions of the Sea lanes! Women pirates in the Pacific and beyond.
Polynesian Afternoon Tea – how civilized!

Entertainer is Andy Bunger, a multi-instrumentalist.
Movie: Agatha; pretty good fictional movie about her 11 day disappearance.
Beautiful day with the weather. Much time spent on clients.

Sunday, Jan 23 – Pitcairn Island, one of the most remote in the world, on BOUNTY DAY
Beautiful weather. Island is 2 x 1 mile big with approx. 76 residents, most with the last names of Christian or Warren. These are the descendants of the Captain Bligh/Fletcher Christian mutiny on The Bounty real-life story. Synopsis: After a long layover in Tahiti, where the men took on Tahitian women and did not want to leave, Captain Bligh was overthrown by Fletcher Christian and some crew. Bligh was set to sea with 18 of his crew, who chose to be cast to sea with him. Fletcher had the Bounty ship and after sailing aimlessly, they came upon Pitcairn island where they landed and created their community. After existing for two years on the island, in celebration that they had found a home, the community burned the Bounty (ship). Today marked the 221st anniversary of that burning and the islanders usually celebrate by creating a ship and burning it in the sea. Since they only had two week notice of our arrival, they had all been working feverishly to create more crafts and carvings so they did not have time to build the replica Bounty, thus no ceremony!

The islanders came out to the AMSTERDAM in their longboat, which had so many handicrafts you would never believe the people and crafts could fit in the boat. The hill was steep and it appeared as if it were half of a crafter. We could see a few ranch homes from the ship; they use ATVs to get around the dirt roads. There is one school and they have a teacher from New Zealand. There were some Norfolk pine trees and others, from which they carve. Post office and store are open 3 times a week for approx. 2 hours each time. Homes do not have locks; keys are not used. They have a policeman, who was just married on Jan 11th; the church is the Seventh Day Adventists with two services on Saturday. There is one boy of high school age. They have a vacation island (about 300 nautical miles away) and they all go as a family and cook and relax. Each family takes a turn cooking dinner and they share their food. They have electricity for 5 hours in the morning and 5 hours in the evening. Internet is slow but available; they have two TV channels – Turner Classic Movies and CNN. They have an elected mayor and a board of advisors. Every three months a supply ship arrives from New Zealand with staples for the home, gasoline, school, buildings, boats – can you imagine your shopping list if you were only able to shop when you left the island??? They use their radios to call the nearby cargo vessels in a medical emergency. There is no airstrip. Departure is only via boat. They have to sail to another island and then fly to wherever. Life is quite different from how we know it.
www.visitpitcairn.pn
They set up tables around the pool and sold their wares – T-shirts, wooden carved bowls and engravings, post cards and stamps, pearl and shell jewelry, caps, honey (known to be some of the best in the world and sold in London when they can get it there),

We went to the crew church service and were actually requested to leave by the pastor! A first. We were totally surprised and the next day we heard more about it from the crew. What a wrong way to get the crew interested in Christianity. We were stunned and tried to forget it.

Monday, Jan 24 – At sea
Four exercise classes, meeting with medical and passenger took up a lot of the time, met with the shore excursion manager and assistant for our group tours, went to a computer class which did not help me accomplish what I needed, Melvyn Foster guest lecturer gave a great presentation on Captain Cook and his three phenomenal journeys of discovery and had the singers and dancers in “Broadway’s Grand Voyage”. Formal night with Mutiny on the Bounty Theme. Crew and staff had the entire dining room fitted out to be a pirate ship and their costumes were great! Swords, hats, belts and coats just like the pirates!

Enjoyed the old movie with Marlon Brando, Trevor Howard and Richard Harris but what a digression from the truth! You would think the Bligh family would have won a huge lawsuit for defamation of character on Hollywood’s portrayal of Bligh! We were so upset about the movie, it took us awhile to unwind before we get actually sleep! Fletcher Christian led a mutiny against William Bligh and cast him adrift with 18 of his loyal men but there is still conflict on why.

Sailing 1, 188 nautical miles between Pitcairn Island and Papeete Tahiti in approx. 72 hours with a speed of approx. 16.7 miles per hour. We can sail at a top speed of 25 miles per hour with two propulsion motors and five diesel engines.

Tuesday, Jan 25 – at sea
Exercise class with a twist – we went up on the jogging deck and did our arm push-ups while leaning on the banister facing to the sea and ran two laps, beside the other exercises! Walked and did Tai chi also. Spent a lot of time with a passenger and the front office and ate way too much! “High seas/High society – The Great Ocean Liners” lecture on the great liners sailing between NY and London/Europe in the 20th century – love that lecture! Those ships are the pre-cursors of the cruising industry.

Variety show of Ken and Casey (man and his duck), Andy Bunger musician and singer Cheryl Sinclair.
Went to the movie “Unforgiven” about the American West.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Lima Peru

Thursday, Jan 13, 2011 – at sea – nice day –
Worked on client issues. Went to my Tai Chi class. Walked about an hour on our deck and talked the entire time – it is quite the social hour to be out there. Saw some dolphins!

Black and Silver Ball at 10PM. The large theatre was covered in black and silver wall hangings, balloons, little top hats scattered around the floor…people danced and bottles of champagne were given away.

Friday, Jan 14 – Callao, Peru for LIMA
Beautiful sunny day, perfect temperature of about 80. We docked about 9AM and had the Ensemble waiting for us. Erika was the guide and Henry was our driver; we were 31 on our private city tour, tour of the Convent of Santo Domingo, the Dominican Order founded in 1535. There are beautiful glazed ceramic tiles from Seville, Spain, a library of over 25,000 volumes and the Chapel of St. Martin de Porres. The patron saint of Lima, Saint Rosa of Lima, was beatified in 1688 and canonized in 1671, is buried in the crypt. Our wonderful afternoon was spent at the private residence - Casa Luna. Owned by the Luna family, Mr. Luna is an architect with an interest/specialty in altar renovations. From his work, he has created an unbelievable collection of Peruvian crèches and nativity scenes. His goal is to maintain the history of Peruvians in the mountains and smaller regions but has also spread to collecting worldwide. Their home was one floor and they added an entire 2nd floor to house his collection. Professional, majestic, impressive collection of very small pieces of figurines made from all types of materials. We really enjoyed seeing. Mrs. Luna was with us. The house was made to entertain and they have a huge courtyard where a tent was set up (large enough for four tables for 8 at each table) and a gorgeous buffet table. Beautiful fresh flower arrangements, catered meal, waiters with drinks…The gorgeous home...the Peruvian dishes…the perfect weather of a warm breeze and sunshine...it was a special afternoon in Lima in a setting most people will not experience – another reason to book through Preferred Travel, an ENSEMBLE agency!

We arrived back to the ship about 3:50 and tried to get back in to town but the shuttles had supposedly stopped. Luckily we were still chatting to people at 5:45 and suddenly a shuttle was ready to go! Who knew!??! We went to the Marriott and had use of the internet for about 15 minutes. Enough to get the messages downloaded and a few phone calls made. The sunset through the large floor-to-ceiling windows on the 2nd floor was spectacular as the Pacific Ocean and a nice park with palm trees are across the street. It was GORGEOUS! The ride back to the ship was also nice – dusk and the streets were filling with people and life was just beginning in the South American city. Their traffic is horrible and lane markings are merely a suggestion but we enjoyed seeing the city at dark. It takes on a different view as you can see in to the houses and restaurants and people are out on the streets.

Met LIli Espinoza, the owner of Arte Qollana. Beautiful hand-painted gourds with added silver detail; hand designed jewelry. www.arteqolland.com.pe. Her crafts are also in the Hotel Swissotel in Lima.

Ran back onto the ship to try to find dinner…we had missed the buffet, the outdoor Gaucho BBQ and our 5:30 dining time but were welcomed to dine at the 8 PM seating since so many people were dining outside. There was no entertainment tonight but they showed a large screen movie in the theatre.

Did you know…Callao was the main port for Spanish commerce in the Pacific, founded in 1537. Virtaully all goods produced in Peru, Bolivia and Argentina were carried over the Andres by mile to Callao, to be shipped to Panama, carried overland (no canal then!) and transported on to Spain via Cuba.

“The world always looks brighter behind a smile.” - Unknown

Saturday, Jan 15, 2011 – Lima Peru
Lima, the City of Kings, is the capital of Peru with a population of 650,000. Their currency is the Peruvian Nuevo sol. Founded by Spanish Conquistador Pizarro in 1535, it was the most important city in South America for more than 300 years. There are 43 districts and they each have their own municipal government and tax rate. Chief exports are minerals, cotton, foods (asparagus, potatoes, etc.), wool and hides.

The first railroad in South America was between Callao and Lima in 1851. The first ship to sail around the world left Callao on October 28, 1856 and returned on May 24, 1958.

Took ship’s shuttle to the Marriott Hotel and was able to work for about an hour before we were met by Mariela Chiara, a local touroperator. Toured the Country Club Hotel, a refined hotel near the golf course and private tennis club with HUGE rooms and a beautiful observatory restaurant.

Met Maria, General Manager, at Panchita’s restaurant. Fabulous!! www.panchita.com.pe
Owned by a famous chef who has taken the local food sold by vendors and brought it inside to a casual upscale grill restaurant. You are greeted by fantastic smells and a warehouse-type dining area. We should have had them order for us and NOT tell us what we were eating before we ate it…but they made a wonderful selection. They use several types of potatoes in all their meals, with rice. Our menu: Olluquito, Aji de Gallina (hen), Patita con mani (pork), Antichcho (cow’s heart – specialty of the restaurant and it was delicious as long as you could get past what it was!) and Inka Cola (yellow Coca Cola, national brand).

We took another city tour and saw a few more sights: The Parque de Olivas (olive tree park) created by Europeans and large mansions surrounding the olive park, Convent of San Francisco with 50,000 bones in its catacombs, Plaza Mayor with cathedral, their “White House” and government building, the Plaza San Martin and the Bolivar hotel, where we stayed in 1990. The city is so much cleaner and presentable now – I would like to come back and spend more time in the country!

Back at the Marriott, we worked for over an hour! Fantastic sunset over the ocean and we were on the bus back to the ship. Shopped at the pier and Gene bought me a beautiful cream colored wool cape with light brown llama fur trim. Beautiful handwoven crafts and friendly people.
Sadly, we missed the local Peruvian dance show.

“The true harvest of my daily life somewhat as intangible and indescribable as the tints of morning or evening. It is a little star dust caught, a segment of the rainbow which I have clutched.” - Henry David Thoreau

Sunday, Jan 16 – at sea in the Pacific Ocean
Guest Chefs Mark Scarbrough and Bruce Weinstein are onboard for special presentations. Slept late, walked and exercised. Met people all over the ship and kept stopping and talking and accomplished little except enjoying myself! Gene is not well and has been resting. The other two men at the dinner table are also ill! The ship is pitching slightly and some people are commenting but we are fine. I tried to read outside but kept meeting people…. Hard to find my little corner for some “down time”.

Went to a meeting for the Holland America Line Chorale – I’m going to sing again! We will be singing a medley of songs from the 20s, 30s and 40s and begin tomorrow.
Martin Beaumont was the comedian. Worked on the computer while listening to the Neptune band.

Things I did not do today (!!):
Protestant Sunday worship at 8AM, Fitness class, watercolor, Jewish Journey, Dance Class, Tai Chi, TV production of Good Morning Amsterdam, Digital workshops, travel guide presentation, bridge classes, Explorations speaker, onboard games, spa, roulette, bingo, How to Write a cookbook, team trivia, Acupuncture seminar, ping pong, duplicate bridge, indoor cycling, writing seminar, arts and crafts, Pilates, Office talk on Environmental issues at sea, afternoon tea, chorale, stretch class, karaoke and Latin nights music!!

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Manta Ecuador

Wednesday, Jan 12, 2011 – Manta, Ecuador
Even though Ecuador is one of South America’s smallest nations, it is a place of broad cultural diversity. The country was named for its latitude and Quito, capital since 1830, is situated on the imaginary line. Manta is the 2nd busiest port, after Guayaqauil. Just a few miles from the coast, banana, cocoa and rice plantations spread inland all the way to the base of the sierra. Panama hats originated in Montechristi, Ecuador! Their currency is the US dollar. There is a rich pre-Columbian history; the Spaniards/ conquistadors looted much Incan gold and introduced the horse to the region.

Cloudy and warm; the dock is large and we had the U.S. Navy’s HSV2 docked next to us. Of course, we tried to get onboard but were denied access. It is actually the catamaran ferry used in Hobart, Australia and has been converted to a Goodwill vessel. They dropped off water supplies in Haiti, an ambulance in Guatemala, built a classroom on an older school in Peru and will be in Manta for three weeks meeting with doctors, schools, orphanages and other military officials for training. It is all gray and has a huge cavity for storage. There were guards on the top deck and we saw a female guard, with a machine gun, at the front of the ship. There were Ecuadorian guards around the fort also.

Free shuttle to the port entrance and while still in the port area, we were approached to hire a taxi for $80 to go to Machalilla. We declined and outside the port, hired a taxi for $40 for the day. Jose was our driver and we found out the muffler on the car was bad so it smelled terribly as he was driving – stinky! But we had the windows open the entire time. We drove along E15, a brand new highway along the coast. Wonderful road with very nice views of the beaches, small villages with small restaurants, many colorful blue and white fishing boats, a small mining area for petrochemicals/concrete (hard to tell what it was for), desert-like canyons with spindly candelabra cacti…we continued for about 1.5 hours and then we approached the Machalilla National Park, one of the most threatened tropical forests in the world. The park preserves a small part of the country’s rapidly vanishing coastal habitats, beach, tropical dry forest, cloud forest and ocean.

After paying a park entrance fee of $5 per person, we continued on a dirt road for 4+ miles to the small village of Agua Blanca, an indigenous community. It is nothing more than a scattering of simple wood and bamboo dwellings and the citizens live simply with the wandering cows, pigs and goats (for meat only), chickens, birds, horses…the bamboo homes have beautiful designs and rooms can be rented for $6 a night. There is a small archeological museum with well-preserved ceramics and funeral urns. The sulfur pool is a combination of hot water and therapeutic mud and was in a relaxing setting. The citizens bathe there and are said to have soft skin and it is difficult to tell their ages. There is woman of 105+ years old in the village.

We walked through the forest and saw the algarobo tree, which as a green bark and is able to photosynthesize even when it loses its leaves. The ceiba/kapok tree yield a fiber that floats and doesn’t get waterlogged; it was used in life jackets. The birds were singing beautiful chirps and we saw the pigs wandering and in the yards of the homes. We treated the driver and guide to drinks and were pleasantly surprised when 5 drinks and one snack cost $1.75 total! Big spenders…

During the drive back to Manta, the driver tried to buy some fresh fish for dinner but they supplies were already sold. It was interesting that the fish were still there in the shop but had been sold.

Back in Manta, he left us at the Civic Plaza, where there was a large outdoor market with many vendors. All kinds of crafts: carvings from the tagua nut (similar to ivory), leather belts, silver jewelry, weavings, Panama hats (yes, they are made here in Ecuador), feather paintings, coffee beans…very nice market and I’m sure they do well when a ship is in town.

We walked back to the port, tried to get on the internet but failed and were ready to rest since it was quite humid and hot when we did not have the car windows to cool us down!
My choice for dinner was a shrimp/crab/scallop brioche, romaine salad with nuts and raisins and cucumbers/tomatoes/carrots, a seafood skewer with vegetables and carrot cake – my favorite!
Daniel Bouchet entertained, an Argentinian singer now living in Miami. Laundry and computer work and ready for bed!

I’ve pictures to upload but the connection is too slow…may have to wait until Lima, Peru/Saturday to attempt that one!

Panama Canal and Pinnacle Grill dinner



Monday, January 10, 2011 – Panama Canal transit – Up at 6 and it was still dark out! What did they expect us to see?! But we could see lights ahead as we approached the first lock. The canal is considered to be the 8th Wonder of the Modern World and has shortened the trip around South America by 7,872 miles. The concept of a canal was actually perceived by King Charles V of Spain, who, in 1523, prompted Balboa and Cortez to make a survey of the Canal area. But the project was too large for the Spanish and abandoned. The canal was finished in 1914, after the loss of over 6,000 lives from yellow fever and cholera.

We had a destination guide with us all day – yes, it does take all day to transit the entire canal! There are three sets of locks – Gatun, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores – and then we enter the Pacific Ocean. Throughout the ship, there were various stations for coffee, juice, panama rolls (soft rolls with orange jam inside!) and sandwiches. That was a great touch and people did not mind being outside as they still had access to the food and drink (it was hot and humid and drizzled all day). In your spare time…to view any ship transit the canal, please go to www.pancanal.com. We entered at 6:30 AM and left about 3:30 PM.

Average transit is 9 hours. Fastest was 2 hours, 41 minutes. Highest toll was $141,344.97. Lowest toll was $0.36 (Richard Halliburton was swam in 1928). There are approx. 9000 workers at the canal and it is 48 miles long. An enlargement scheme to allow for a greater number of transits with larger ships has been approved by the government of Panama, is in progress and completion is expected in 2015.

Went to my first tai chi class and really enjoyed it. The theatre was full of people!! And I could already feel the stretch and pull in my leg and arms muscles – taught by two Australians.
David Howarth, pianist, was the entertainer. He actually played “chopsticks” with real chopsticks!

There are daily movies onboard PLUS a DVD library of hundreds to choose from. Today’s movie was “Extraordinary Measures”. They also sold items made in Panama out on deck. There is a nice covered pool, two Jacuzzis and outdoor grill with a removable roof. Today was the first time we were up there and it will be very nice in good weather.

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” - Mark Twain

Tuesday, Jan 11, 2011 – Went for Tai chi class and I like it – need to learn more of the steps and combinations but that will come. There are still about 60+ people in the room! Worked on a client situation that consumed much time; lunch in the dining room; Zumba class in the fitness center; computer work.

Pinnacle Grill dinner with the group; an exclusive event for the Ensemble Travel group guests which we have been working on for several days with a special menu! We had 35 guests for a 4 course meal in the specialty on-board restaurant. Dungeness crab cakes, spicy coconut soup or caesar salad, surf and turf or salmon and chocolate volcano cake with very nice wines. We filled eight tables and everyone seemed to have a nice time getting to know each other. Ran in to the Wajang Theatre to see the end of the Mitzi Gaynor movie, “Les Girls” from 1957.

Amsterdam Singers performed on the main stage; there were four men and two women. I liked the male voices dominating the singing. Then read about our next port of call, Manta Ecuador; crossed the equator at some time during the night so we will wait to have the “Neptune Ceremony” at another time but we were offered a glass of champagne during dinner.

Grand Cayman



Friday, Jan 7 – Arrived in Grand Cayman to sunshine and winds so we were not able to tender directly in to Georgetown. Grand Cayman government provided the tenders and we were banging against the pier as we docked. We are about 3 miles east of Georgetown and the island also provided a free shuttle to town. Royal Caribbean’s Liberty of the Seas ship was next to us… a huge behemoth next to the lovely Amsterdam!

We met up with Martha, manager of the Bernard Passman Galleries on Front Street, who is also from Delaware! Unique black coral sculptures and beautifully designed jewelry – you will be amazed by the sculptures! On the way there, we passed a lovely shop called Island Companies and received a replica medallion from the treasure of a sunken ship from long ago. And for the first time, I saw the stone Caymanite. It comes in a variety of lovely soft pastel earth colors (sold in jewelry form or sculpted. I really liked it! Bobett was our sales associate, so put her on your list for future visits to Grand Cayman! It is only found in the Cayman Islands and was formed 20-25 million years ago from volcanic activity.
They are located in the Island Plaza, right off the main street where tenders usually dock. www.islandCompaniesltd.com. Martha put us in touch with the old Starbucks café and we spent most of the day there using Skype and working. Felt great to accomplish so much in a quicker time than from onboard the ship.

We walked around Heroes Square, created in 2003, on the 500th anniversary of the island. And toured their General Assembly!! Lovely slate walls and slate desk where the mace is stored. The traditional British wigs are still worn and they represent approx. 50,000 people in their part-time legislature.

Grand Cayman is a British colony with no taxation. This was granted by king George III as a reward to the people for the rescue of all in the Wrecking of Ten ships”, which took place in 1788. This has attracted over 600 banks to the island with a population of 44,000. The country is also listed among the top four diving locations in the world.

As we tendered back to the ship, we could see the special insignia Holland America had painted on the front of the ship!! GRAND WORLD VOYAGE 2011. That was impressive!! Announcing loud and clear to all who care to know!

The sun was shining, we prepared for dinner and were called to find a lost guest who had not been heard from since 2PM. Searched each deck and found her asleep in the back of the ship. Relief.
Dinner of lamb chops and a very good dance trio, the STANDER DANCE TRIO, who have appeared on Dancing with the Stars and other professional dance shows.
Room status: only paperwork is now scattered around the room. All suitcases have been stored under the bed OR in storage on the ship. One gold star for that accomplishment! Now to clear out the paperwork and get on to enjoying the moment!

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Mitzi Gaynor

Saturday, Jan 8 – day at sea and met some of the group around 10:00, 11:00 meeting and quick lunch in the freezing cold dining room! Then 2PM creative writing class, meeting with Pinnacle Grill manager for group dinner, cleaning up room and dressing for formal night, getting drawer fixed…the list never ends.

The dining room was decorated nicely with flags of most nations and then we were entertained by Mitzi Gaynor! What a treat! Of course, I went to both shows!! “Razzle Dazzle: My Life Behind the Sequins”. She came out in her sailor outfit from South Pacific, her lead role and changed into four glamorous gowns. She looked great and they have been running on documentary on her “specials” from TV and I really enjoyed seeing them – from 1960s-70s. She looks great at 76 and gave very good shows. A real thrill!

Sunday – Jan 9 – spent most of the morning running around the ship getting mixed up invitations (not by me, but housekeeping) re-delivered to staterooms and deciding on the menu and wines for the Pinnacle Grill dinner.

On the Caribbean Sea, Puerto Limon is an older port town with access to the coffee plantations and jungle canal/mangrove tours in the Tortuguero area to see the alligators and turtles. We were just walking around the main square and saw a large sloth above our heads! Not the safest place to be wandering around so be aware of your surroundings.

Shopping is for beautiful wooden crafts and jewelry and placemats! Really pretty and I had forgotten how creative you can be with an assortment of colors! They were filming a TV show at the waterfront so we hung out with the locals and watched some men try to pull themselves up a wooden wall using only their arms as they jump from one rung to the other – impressive!

Friday, January 7, 2011

1st day at Sea

Thursday, January 06, 2011 – We sailed past Cuba for most of the day and we glanced at it casually as we worked from the stateroom most of the day. We personally delivered about ½ of our group’s gifts (a mini camcorder!) and tote bags and welcome/tour confirmations. Great weather, meaning warm sunshine, with a fierce wind of 42 knots, or so we were told! We’ll be able to join in the fun soon enough...the bean bag toss(!), fitness classes, walking on the promenade, dance classes…and I am going to try the creative writing class! Room service for breakfast and lunch and a very nice dinner. Called everyone in our group and met quite a few. Rick Starr, comedian, was the entertainer. Last night we were introduced to the multitude of hosts onboard for entertainment: gentleman hosts, arts and crafts, bridge, ports of call, painting, creative writing…a few more than what we had onboard the Grand Voyage to the Black Sea in March-May 2010.

I do feel as if I am in my “home-away-from-home”.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Onboard!

Amsterdam – Wednesday, Jan 5, 2011
After a night at the Springhill Suites, near the port and Ft. Lauderdale airport, where we were working until 2:30 AM, the bus ride to the port was relaxing as we knew we were almost “there”. Sometimes you just need to know you are out the door and almost “there” so you can handle the next event. This was the first day of sunshine and it was quite appropriate, considering the circumstances of embarking on a world cruise!
Check-in was smooth; boarding was quick and we were in our room by 12:30 - #3324 with a window out to the promenade deck. Honestly, the room seemed small. The sofa and bed appeared huge and the empty space appeared minute. Oh dear. And there was very little luggage in here at the moment. How will we manage?? I don’t think I did any better packing for this world cruise than I did for the last one!! Ketut and Niyagon are our stateroom attendants (4th born in Bali and 3rd born in Bali – each son has the same name so you know their order of birth). We did not have time to go up for lunch and worked from the room and from the pier before dinner at 5:30. Table of 10 but we were six and then two latecomers appeared. San Diego, Victoria and Roanoke were our tablemates. Dinner was presently beautifully and I was famished! We finally set sail after 6:15 since it took longer to load the “stores” for the first leg of the journey. Met with the front office, figured out the computer logon/off; handled a $6,660 hold on my credit card from the cruise line!!!!; booked some travel and wished I was in bed! But the welcome show is next and then I will collapse. Several suitcases appeared and a few were emptied but the mess is still around us. I need to get organized tomorrow for phone calls and meetings…our first cocktail party is on Sunday!

We are near the ship....

After many silly mishaps along the way from Delaware to Florida in the car…shall I begin the list with realizing my car insurance card was not up-to-date in the car we were driving – such wonderful technology that they can email it me and I can stop at a hotel along the highway and print it?? To leaving my cell phone at McDonald’s after a trying day of computer issues?? we are finally in Florida!!!

Staying at the Springhill Suites by Marriott near the Ft. Lauderdale port and hope to get up in a few hours to make the final transfer of five large suitcases and a multitude of smaller cases from the car to the hotel shuttle to the ship! It has been a lovely 60 degrees+ and we hope it continues to warm up. Sail at 5PM on January 5. TODAY!